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Wed Apr 08, 2015 3:16 am

Hello! My drain bolt helicoil insert broke. I want to replace with a Time-Sert insert. Does anyone know the drain hole thread length. I'm guessing I should order the 12.7 mm length.

Also, do I need to go one size bigger? It currently uses a 14 mm bolt. The bolt hole did not strip. The helicoil failed.

Thanks!

Wed Apr 08, 2015 5:10 am

Why not just get anorher cover plate for it?

Wed Apr 08, 2015 5:51 am

Manfreds78bay wrote: Hello! My drain bolt helicoil insert broke. I want to replace with a Time-Sert insert. Does anyone know the drain hole thread length. I'm guessing I should order the 12.7 mm length.

Also, do I need to go one size bigger? It currently uses a 14 mm bolt. The bolt hole did not strip. The helicoil failed.

Thanks!

Which part are you referring to.
thanks to mayor ratwell

Good luck
Tcash

Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:19 am

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the completely separate oil drain bolt located on the case half opposite the cover plate.

Is it even on that diagram?

Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:22 am

Drain plug.... for all us 'Merican bus owners is what he referring too. And no, it is not depicted on the above schematic

Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:16 am

I'm guessing it's #44 plugs into it. I'm referring to the whole in the case. Not the plug/bolt.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:22 am

Manfreds78bay wrote: I'm guessing it's #44. There is only one oil drain plug folks. While you can drain from the strainer cover, that's not what it's called.

#44 looks like the oil pressure relief spring, bolt etc.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 7:24 am

poptop tom wrote: Manfreds78bay wrote: I'm guessing it's #44. There is only one oil drain plug folks. While you can drain from the strainer cover, that's not what it's called.

#44 looks like the oil pressure relief spring, bolt etc.

I'm talking about the hole in the case. I just need to figure out the length of the insert.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:05 am

lil-jinx wrote: Why not just get anorher cover plate for it?

Because the Type 4 engine has a dedicated drain that has nothing to do with any cover plate. Way too many of these things are showing up all stripped out, what is with people?!? Just because some Jiffy Lube Horror Story crops up about a drain plug falling out, does not mean that they are prone to falling out. It means that someone didn't tighten the thing in the slightest.

17mm/19mm/6mm allen ... Drain plug 12 ft/lbs FINE
13mm ... Strainer Nut 9 ft/lbs FINE
10mm ... Taco Plate Bolts 5 ft/lbs FINE (really)

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:17 am

Amskeptic wrote: lil-jinx wrote: Why not just get anorher cover plate for it?

Because the Type 4 engine has a dedicated drain that has nothing to do with any cover plate. Way too many of these things are showing up all stripped out, what is with people?!? Just because some Jiffy Lube Horror Story crops up about a drain plug falling out, does not mean that they are prone to falling out. It means that someone didn't tighten the thing in the slightest.

17mm/19mm/6mm allen ... Drain plug 12 ft/lbs FINE
13mm ... Strainer Nut 9 ft/lbs FINE
10mm ... Taco Plate Bolts 5 ft/lbs FINE (really)

Colin, oh wise one, I know you must know the answer to my quest for knowledge. Is 12.7mm the correct length for the insert and should I get 16mm kit or stay with the 14mm kit? Remember the helicoil broke. Any suggestions would be great.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:28 am

Why don't you stick something in the hole and measure it?

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:32 am

aeromech wrote: Why don't you stick something in the hole and measure it?

I was hoping someone had done this and could chime in that has done this before. Because I doubt the inserts and the available sizes are going to match up perfectly.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:35 am

Try calling an engine builder like Headflow Masters or Suburban.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:44 am

aeromech wrote: Try calling an engine builder like Headflow Masters or Suburban.

Okay thanks.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:55 am

Manfreds78bay wrote: aeromech wrote: Try calling an engine builder like Headflow Masters or Suburban.

Okay thanks.

Give me an hour or so. I have a case open on my workbench at home.

If you are going to use a TimeSert....or EZLock...which you should because Helicoils have no business anywhere on this engine or in aluminum that is less than T6 hardness in my experience......then you need to make sure that the installed depth is spot on (with a timesert)...because if not, the expansion flange at the end of the bore that locks the insert into the bore....will stand proud of the case....and not let all of your oil drain. It will not be much...but will leave a layer of oil about .050" deep in there.

Personally if I had to replace that thread I would lock a bolt in there and leave it alone until its time to rebuild and split the case. Then I would use an oversized EZlock that is bottomed into its bore, peened in with lock tight so its a thick wall insert and flush inside the case.

Ray

Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:13 am

raygreenwood wrote: Manfreds78bay wrote: aeromech wrote: Try calling an engine builder like Headflow Masters or Suburban.

Okay thanks.

Give me an hour or so. I have a case open on my workbench at home.

If you are going to use a TimeSert....or EZLock...which you should because Helicoils have no business anywhere on this engine or in aluminum that is less than T6 hardness in my experience......then you need to make sure that the installed depth is spot on (with a timesert)...because if not, the expansion flange at the end of the bore that locks the insert into the bore....will stand proud of the case....and not let all of your oil drain. It will not be much...but will leave a layer of oil about .050" deep in there.

Personally if I had to replace that thread I would lock a bolt in there and leave it alone until its time to rebuild and split the case. Then I would use an oversized EZlock that is bottomed into its bore, peened in with lock tight so its a thick wall insert and flush inside the case.

Ray

Thanks, Ray. That is good advice. But the engine was recently rebuilt and they neglected to look at the drain plug. So she is going to be this way for a few miles. I would appreciate any advice as to the best way to get the time-sert installed correctly and I think it would be good for the site as well.

Thanks!

Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:43 am

The EZ-LOK look like an easier install. I might go that route.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:03 pm

I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray

Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:28 pm

raygreenwood wrote: I measured the thread depth on one of my cases at .518". Ray

Perfect. 12.7mm it is.

Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:59 pm

Tcash wrote: Pictures would be cool.
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