TheSamba.com :: View topic - Can you use Curil T to-------

Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:35 pm

1- to seal cylinder base to case?
2- to seal case nuts, washers and threads?

Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:40 pm

ritchiet002 wrote: 1- to seal cylinder base to case?
2- to seal case nuts, washers and threads?

I did, at the recommendation of those more experienced than me.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:40 pm

I dont know never used any of it. I use silycone on the cylinders and ptfe otay liquid teflon thread sealent on threads,washers,nuts,faces. then wipe off exsess when squeezed out.( wish I had sealed my mofoco rocker studs with it :shock: starten to seep when it gets cold out side(below about55 f)

Thu Nov 05, 2015 1:54 pm

Yes on the bolts/washers/etc.., not so much on the cylinder bases, I prefer the gray silicone for that.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 2:06 pm

Make sure you follow the instructions on the product you use.

For example, I let the silicone set-up for 10 minutes before joining the parts.

Also make sure the two surfaces to be joined are cleaned thoroughly.

I use Curil T for:

Case halfs
Oil pump
Push rod tubes (and use white silicone pushrod tube seals)
valve cover gasket to valve cover.
Outside the rear main seal.
Under the 4 washers in the rocker area of the cylinder head (to keep oil from seeping out)
And under the 6 main case nuts.

I use Elring Dirko Silicone under:

Cylinders (and don't use a paper gasket)

Thu Nov 05, 2015 3:01 pm

Mr.Duncan wrote:

I use Curil T for:

Oil pump :?:

I use Elring Dirko Silicone under:

Cylinders (and don't use a paper gasket)

I thought no sealing compound on the pump?

Thu Nov 05, 2015 3:43 pm

I used Curil T (blue tube I believe) on cylinder bases, pushrod tubes with the white gaskets, and my fuel pump block-off a few months ago when I tore my engine apart.

The stuff seals great, no leaks or seepage yet. It doesn't seem to 'cure' per sé, it stays a thick goop. I think that's the key.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:21 pm

I've had no luck recently w curil T, the last 2 engine's I built with it were both drippers. I tore one back down and resealed the case with Threebond 1184A and it's dry and leak free. I tried the Curil as many experienced builders use it, but I either got a bad tube or I'm doing something wrong. It was still a bit tacky when I pulled the engines back apart.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:37 pm

esde wrote: I've had no luck recently w curil T, the last 2 engine's I built with it were both drippers. I tore one back down and resealed the case with Threebond 1184A and it's dry and leak free. I tried the Curil as many experienced builders use it, but I either got a bad tube or I'm doing something wrong. It was still a bit tacky when I pulled the engines back apart.

You may have to wait for it to go from the thin slime out of the tube to the thick tacky goop. Takes about 5 minutes of air exposure. After that, mount the parts.

My engine still has a few small leaks, but none of them are from my cylinders or pushrod tubes.

You can see the bead of it around #4 here.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 5:09 pm

It was suggested in another post, that with cases, you need/should coat one side.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:25 pm

Probably not a bad idea, too much and it slithers around and may get pushed out. To apply it correctly use a small paintbrush with the bristles cut down really short and dab it on so it's stippled like one of those 70's popcorn ceilings, then allow it to dry ~15 minutes before assembly. Some also include a thin silk thread to add structure to the seal.

Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:18 pm

Read the instructions!
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&am...3889,d.cGc

Main purpose is a non hardening sealant for finely machined mating surface, fills up to .004" gaps
threads? yes

But for cylinder sleeves, they recommend silicone.
NOT recommended for use as a dressing on rubber or flexible seals

Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:12 pm

modok wrote: Read the instructions!
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&am...3889,d.cGc

Great! Now I might need to split the case to fix a stud. What will take this stuff off? I saw nothing in the instructions about a solvent.

Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:36 pm

I've found autobody gunwash to be the most effective, still takes a bit of a soak, alcohol doesn't do a thing unlike what it does to Permatex 2, but that's good if you ever fill the case with ethanol laced gas by accident. Laquer thinner may work too, never tried it myself.

Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:18 pm

In my experience, acetone will take off pretty much any kind of sealant like that. Also carb cleaner probably would too, since it's usually a mixture of 3-4 types of solvent.

Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:36 pm

I've always used Gasgacinch to seal everything. It works great, I never have leaks. CB used to carry it, and I stocked up on it, and haven't checked lately.

Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:31 pm

ritchiet002 wrote: modok wrote: Read the instructions!
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&am...3889,d.cGc

Great! Now I might need to split the case to fix a stud. What will take this stuff off? I saw nothing in the instructions about a solvent.

It should be easier than most
scrape, wipe, wipe with brake-clean(or whatever solvent), you'll get it no problem

Sat Nov 07, 2015 12:36 pm

the2ndcashboy wrote: In my experience, acetone will take off pretty much any kind of sealant like that. Also carb cleaner probably would too, since it's usually a mixture of 3-4 types of solvent.
Did a test on the "ooze" at the top seam. It worked quite well. Now I have to find the damn case splitter! ](*,)

Sat Nov 07, 2015 11:32 pm

Comes off easy, I have not used anything else but dirko in almost the last 15+ years to assemble vw and other engine cases with virtually no leaks period, and I have used almost everything out there.

I have used the curil T in turbo and exh manifold applications and works great, but case halves not so good.