TheSamba.com :: View topic - How to use Rust Converters on parts and seams

Thu Nov 19, 2015 10:24 pm

More wiping with a RC:

Here is a RMW stainless steel WBX coolant pipe that has seen 30,000 miles over 4.5 years and lived on Cape Cod.

I wiped the pipe, just as I did the rust stain removal shown previously.
Waited 2 minutes and washed with hot water.
I don't have a picture, but the stained areas where heat from welding the pipes did turn a bit darker.
Than I polished the pipe.

Here are two areas I missed when polishing...you can see a bit of the color left from wiping:

I assembled and installed this motor 4.5 years ago for a client.
I can tell you that the pipe looks pretty darn good.
2k clear will be sprayed over it once I finish polishing it.
It and the WBXhaust, also being cleaned up, will be mounted back to the Vanistan 2.2 after it is refreshed as well.
All of these parts will be installed in one of my summer only vans that is highly detailed and more for show.

Thu Nov 19, 2015 11:47 pm

Here is the tow hitch after 8.5 months mounted and used:

The ball has wear marks in the finish, that is to be expected.

Fri Nov 20, 2015 10:19 am

3200+ views in less than a week and 31 Volks casting a vote....awesome :!:

I will have some more pictures to add this evening and over the weekend of parts that have been finished and are ready for service.

D

Fri Nov 20, 2015 10:22 am

I also ordered up online and have purchased locally a few more/different RCs to have on hand and experiment with.

More to come :arrow:

Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:44 am

djkeev wrote: Too bad really.

This thread a a lot of excellent technique in it and could have been very helpful but instead it degrades into an "I hate Eastwood rant."

It doesn't matter what product the OP uses, it's the techniques used.

I like white cars, you like yellow cars and she likes green cars..... So What!!

Why must we bicker about such stupid things?

Thread has been edited again by me and then locked by Everett because of the BS it contained.
Grow up people. Accept that we are all different and use different techniques and different products to attain the same goal.

Dave

Dave Evidently some can't not accept different techniques or product preferences being discussed as evidenced by the moderation being done and the tone of some posters. It is hardly stupid to assume a proper technique for one product may not be the same for another. This is not BS, however, stating that a different opinion should be dismissed simply because one states that some one is on an ignore list is BS.
Someone that pulls that stunt evidently can back up his claims technically and thus resorts to personal attacks.

Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:22 pm

bluebus86 wrote: djkeev wrote: Too bad really.

This thread a a lot of excellent technique in it and could have been very helpful but instead it degrades into an "I hate Eastwood rant."

It doesn't matter what product the OP uses, it's the techniques used.

I like white cars, you like yellow cars and she likes green cars..... So What!!

Why must we bicker about such stupid things?

Thread has been edited again by me and then locked by Everett because of the BS it contained.
Grow up people. Accept that we are all different and use different techniques and different products to attain the same goal.

Dave

Dave Evidently some can't not accept different techniques or product preferences being discussed as evidenced by the moderation being done and the tone of some posters. It is hardly stupid to assume a proper technique for one product may not be the same for another. This is not BS, however, stating that a different opinion should be dismissed simply because one states that some one is on an ignore list is BS.
Someone that pulls that stunt evidently can back up his claims technically and thus resorts to personal attacks.

There are multiple threads that have been removed that were authored by you. Well over a dozen.
I Counted seven of them repeating over and over and over your dis-satisfaction with Eastwood.
We aren't discussing product choice in this thread but rather being presented a technique as done by one individual.
I must add, except for the disruptive postings, it's been enthusiastically received!

He could have used ketchup for all I care. I don't have to accept his technique or his product choice as my own. But we for sure aren't going to fight about it here.

The rest of your deleted posts are simply nit picking and trying to get a rise out of individuals, rabble rousing if you will.

Many have reported your posts and as a result they've been removed. You have been identified by many as the controversial and distruptive poster in this thread.
There are socially acceptable and tactful ways to disagree and present alternatives to what was presented, you haven't made use of them.

There is an ignore feature in this forum. I think you'd be much happier if you utilized it.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/faq.php?mode=forums#21

The only way you'll see posts from the ignored members are if they are quoted by a member not on your ignore list.

Dave

PS, we aren't discussing this any farther here, please PM myself, Everett or Kam if you wish to continue to deal with this. Any posts made WILL be removed as will any future disruptive posts.

Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:35 pm

Here is the stainless steel WBXhaust, designed by Vanistan/tencentlife and produced by RMW.

It too has 30,000 miles on it and was on Cape Cod for most of its life.

I will clean it up, polish it as I did the coolant pipe and than plan to double wrap it with DEI titanium header wrap as a show piece.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:09 pm

Dylan.
Great piece of information ,compiled here. It is my understanding that using a product such as "POR 15 " is designed to go over scaling rust and will not do its job on a clean surface? Also I have found that applying RC on a painted surface will just fail as it has nothing to bite into.
I have seen people just go over everything and then it peels off down the road.
Confirm or deny.

Stacy

Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:50 pm

16CV's wrote: Dylan.
Great piece of information ,compiled here. It is my understanding that using a product such as "POR 15 " is designed to go over scaling rust and will not do its job on a clean surface? Also I have found that applying RC on a painted surface will just fail as it has nothing to bite into.
I have seen people just go over everything and then it peels off down the road.
Confirm or deny.

Stacy

Hi Stacy,
I do not know what others have done, products they have used or the environment they live in.

The tow hitch shown in this thread has a product that the vendor, who has corrected me here, feels was not ideal for the purpose.

I have posted my 8.5 month picture showing the condition of it.
I use it.
It has been in the elements found here in Upstate NY.
No peeling, cracking, flaking.....call me lucky I guess.

As I post in many threads and here, I protect my rehabbed parts with clear coat and or wax.
A good seal of the top coat and than a protective wax really helps keep the work solid.

I will be posting more finished parts photos shortly.
They look good from my house :wink:

As with all that goes down here in these forums, many techniques/directions/instructions are not read or understood.
I have issues with adhesion and durability.....in a tiny fraction of what I have experimented with.
I say experiment, as I am just Chap playing around in my shop and trying to help break the fear barrier some have about doing the same.

I can not confirm or deny anything as I am not an authority on anything.
I am just sharing some pictures and a few words to try and help people.

All that is shown in this thread, posted by me, is owned by me and I am doing what I want with it.

If anyone needs confirmation on anything shown here, please contact the vendor of the products that you choose and explain what you plan to do.
They will help you pick the products for your needs.

Thanks.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:57 pm

Stacy, My experience with POR15 is that it does not adhere well to clean metal. It seems to need the "bite" that pitted rust provides.

Mine was outside and NOT top coated as it should be ...... but out here in the real world, "what should be" isn't always done.

Dave

Sat Nov 21, 2015 1:02 pm

Tie Coat primers adhere to the "rust encapsulators" really well.

Most primers and top coats adhere to the tie coat really well.

Get the UV sensitive products covered up or they will fail.

BTW this thread is about converting rust, not encapsulating it with paint.
Yes I have shown encapsulators....being applied to converted rust.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 1:17 pm

More finished parts:

I am doing the best that I can with what I have to work with.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 3:23 pm

Stain removal on Stainless Steel:

This is an experiment.
The muffler has discolored on the ends due to heat from welding and than 30,000 miles of heat cycles, plus life in a salty environment.
I wiped the muffler portion with an RC, wiped it off with a clean towel and hit the entire area with common steel wool.

I take 100% responsibility for these parts that I own outright.
This is a test and if you try the same, you inherit any risks involved.
I have not seen any thus far.
Simple Green was sprayed on the muffler and wiped after the very light once over with steel wool.

D.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 4:45 pm

Loving this thread. As an avid DIY-er but non-gearhead with a long history of
owning strictly replaceable transportation, this is an area where my experience
is sorely lacking. (This AND the peanut oil test...) Good, useful, practical info!

Keep it up...thanks, Dylan!

- Dave

8)

Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:38 pm

Thanks Dave, glad you are getting something out of it.

I'm done with the peanut gallery and will be continuing my threads instead.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:42 pm

Please keep posting!!

I rebuilt my 2.1 but have no experience with rust and rework - and my van has some needs!

Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:49 pm

fraggle00 wrote: Please keep posting!!

I rebuilt my 2.1 but have no experience with rust and rework - and my van has some needs!

I will, that was a reference to the peanut oil thread that I WAS trying to help with.
I am going to focus on my threads, originated by me, like this one.

Please remember, what I am showing is all experimental and done the way I feel like doing it here, right or wrong.
This is not a how to thread, it is me sharing what I do on a daily basis at my personal shop.

Thanks.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:57 pm

insyncro wrote: fraggle00 wrote: Please keep posting!!

I rebuilt my 2.1 but have no experience with rust and rework - and my van has some needs!

I will, that was a reference to the peanut oil thread that I WAS trying to help with.
I am going to focus on my threads, originated by me, like this one.

Please remember, what I am showing is all experimental and done the way I feel like doing it here, right or wrong.
This is not a how to thread, it is me sharing what I do on a daily basis at my personal shop.

Thanks.

I'd rather read and learn before I go out and try some of this stuff. I have refinished a bunch of fasteners with Caswell stuff in the past, but the seam rust on my van is considerable, and the windshield needs a new seal and some metal work. Reading up on options and experience helps a lot.

Sun Nov 22, 2015 8:50 am

So, I'm a little confused by this thread. I thought for the longest time samba people agreed that POR15 was the end all for rust and a good base for questionable areas directly on metal or on factory painted sections. Dident a couple of Guys even used it on the whole chassis. Now some are saying it has problems? Please explain.

Sun Nov 22, 2015 9:05 am

0cean wrote: So, I'm a little confused by this thread. I thought for the longest time samba people agreed that POR15 was the end all for rust and a good base for questionable areas directly on metal or on factory painted sections. Dident a couple of Guys even used it on the whole chassis. Now some are saying it has problems? Please explain.

Hi, and again, POR15 is a rust encapsulating paint.

RCs, convert rust, than can be top coated.

I will gladly start an encapsulation thread because the two processes are different.

I politely ask that questions about encapsulation are not posted here.

Conversion, sure.

I hope this helps.