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Mon Nov 16, 2015 8:33 am

Dad used olive oil iirc or maybe peanut to season the wood stove..
only wish he'd have taken the woodstove outside to heat up and cure the oil.
smoked us out for a day or 2..

Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:46 pm

Second application of peanut oil on all the exhaust system.

Second application dryed up after half hour drive.

The bend is getting darker, as stated before by TK and Dylan.
The rust is getting well seasoned! 8) 8) 8)
One more application tomorrow...

Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:55 pm

Your getting there.

One more good soaking & cooking just might do it

Mon Nov 16, 2015 5:37 pm

Looking good.
Way too busy today to slap around the peanut oil...Ospho and paint had my attention.

Hopefully this week at some point.

Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:18 pm

Thanks guys :wink:
Tomorrow third coat.
Then we will see how if it works this coming winter with road salt... :-k

Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:19 pm

Now, as most exhaust systems rot from the inside out, at least non-stainless ones, perhaps there would be a way of getting the inside coated as well. Maybe pour peanut oil into the throttle body? I'm joking.

I suppose the OP really only wants to keep the non-stainless flanges from deteriorating.

Some reading for you:

http://www.orbitcoatings.com/articles/corrosion-in-exhaust-system-vol-1/

Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:22 pm

[quote="Andrew A. Libby _
13 years later, can you report on the effectiveness of the treatment? How often did Tube reapply the oil? Was it an effective long-term solution that prevented rust entirely? Was it low-maintenance or high-maintenance?[/quote]

Toady, I had the pleasure of spending some time with Mike Popovich (aka The Tube Guru). While shooting the shit with him, I mentioned the renewed interest in the Peanut Oil Exhaust Pipe Treatment on TheSamba.com. The first words out of his mouth were, "That really worked."

Initially, Mike said he applied it several times over a period of about a month. Then he would re-treat the pipes each spring after the winter had had its way with them.

Starting in 2003 he ran the van until he sold it in late 2010, never needing ANY exhaust work. At that time, he said the pipes were solid and still looked good . He said, in particular, he liked the rich patina that developed on them with successive treatments.

One thing about Mike is that he is as forthright and precise in his manner and words as the day is long. In other words, he is not full of shit.

That's all I can say about the efficacy of the Peanut Oil Exhaust Pipe Regimen.

Richie

Tue Nov 17, 2015 11:29 am

Would this work on an cast iron exhaust manifold or would it
A) get too hot
B) be a waste of time since the manifold ain't rusting away any way

The analogy of seasoning a cast iron skillet as to steel pipes isn't exactly clear cut. A Cast iron skillet has more pores than a extruded steel pipe. Not saying it won't work, just way different properties between the two, that's all.

How come I'm craving bacon and cornbread now?

Tue Nov 17, 2015 11:46 am

Depends upon the quality of that cast iron frying pan.
Grab a Wagner high quality pan vs. a Walmart made in bombay pan.

You'll find that the Wagner casting is a far slicker casting in comparison to the cheaper unit, and at 4-5 times the cost.

They both require seasoning, the finer casting Wagner pan will take less.

The headers of a Vanagon?
Might get too hot in the head areas and require more seasoning to get the job done, but it will work.

Pretty much just as Richie mentioned.

Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:24 pm

Forthwithtx wrote: Some reading for you:

http://www.orbitcoatings.com/articles/corrosion-in-exhaust-system-vol-1/

Thanks Forthwithtx!
Very interesting reading all the science behind the construction of and exhaust system from the manifold all the way to the tip of the muffler, different materials used, different thickness... Wow!
Don't forget there is a volume 2 at the end!

Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:39 pm

RicoS wrote: ...I mentioned the renewed interest in the Peanut Oil Exhaust Pipe Treatment on TheSamba.com. The first words out of his mouth were, "That really worked."

Initially, Mike said he applied it several times over a period of about a month. Then he would re-treat the pipes each spring after the winter had had its way with them.

Starting in 2003 he ran the van until he sold it in late 2010, never needing ANY exhaust work. At that time, he said the pipes were solid and still looked good . He said, in particular, he liked the rich patina that developed on them with successive treatments.
...
Richie
Thanks Richie, very helpfull!

So his "documented" way of application is to do it several times (how many times?) in a period of a month (several drives/heat cycles per coating) the first year, then only once every year after that.

I did a generous coating 3 times with drives in 3 days.
Now we will see how it works with my old rusted pipe after this winter.

Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:47 pm

So i drove once yesterday, then this morning going to work, then driving back home. This how it looks like for the second coating of peanut oil.

Now applying the 3rd coat.

And after a half hour drive.

Tue Nov 17, 2015 4:08 pm

Alright alright alright...

Ok guys, i've been documenting this peanut oil exhaust rust treatment, and will post results with pics during this coming winter. We will see how it works... And of course, does it realy works?!

We need someone to do his own experiement on a vanagon waterboxer exhaust, preferably a vanagon used during this winter.
That would be extremely easy as all tubing is well exposed and all that the rear! Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Wed Nov 18, 2015 1:02 am

Forthwithtx wrote: Now, as most exhaust systems rot from the inside out . . .

Forth, my man, I think you need to put down your Shiner, climb off of your stool at Billy Bob's and spend the coming winter within 500 miles of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee. You'll soon come to realize that in the brutal North, an exhaust system doesn't survive long enough to rust from the inside out.

I can't count how many times I've seen a slip joint exhaust system where at a joint the female end was so wasted away from corrosion that it could be peeled off like a tuna can lid while the mating (and protected) male pipe end was rock solid.

Add a healthy spray of salt solution to the mix of heat cycling, vibration fatigue and embrittlement, and a Vanagon exhaust system doesn't stand a chance.

Richie

Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:20 am

x2

OTOH: If your muffler is rusting from the inside, you're probably only drive short distances
and rarely get it hot enough/long enough to burn the moisture out of the cold system.

Best solution for this scenario (other than taking the long way to work) is to punch 3 or 4
nail holes in the bottom of the muffler to allow accumulated moisture to drain. Try it on
your next new muffler...cheap and effective.

- Dave

Wed Nov 18, 2015 10:32 am

pedrokrusher wrote:
We need someone to do his own experiement on a vanagon waterboxer exhaust, preferably a vanagon used during this winter.
That would be extremely easy as all tubing is well exposed and all that the rear! Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Just picked up my supplies on my lunch break.
Great White aka Trusty Rusty Syncro with his smooth running WBX and stock exhaust will be stinking up RT66 on the way home this evening.

Pics to follow.

Wed Nov 18, 2015 10:33 am

insyncro wrote: pedrokrusher wrote:
We need someone to do his own experiement on a vanagon waterboxer exhaust, preferably a vanagon used during this winter.
That would be extremely easy as all tubing is well exposed and all that the rear! Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Just picked up my supplies on my lunch break.
Great White aka Trusty Rusty Syncro with his smooth running WBX and stock exhaust will be stinking up RT66 on the way home this evening.

Pics to follow.

Perfect. Salty roads up your way for sure. :D

Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:04 am

vanagonjr wrote: Would this work on an cast iron exhaust manifold or would it
A) get too hot
B) be a waste of time since the manifold ain't rusting away any way

The analogy of seasoning a cast iron skillet as to steel pipes isn't exactly clear cut. A Cast iron skillet has more pores than a extruded steel pipe. Not saying it won't work, just way different properties between the two, that's all.

How come I'm craving bacon and cornbread now?
Terry Kay wrote: Depends upon the quality of that cast iron frying pan.
Grab a Wagner high quality pan vs. a Walmart made in bombay pan.

You'll find that the Wagner casting is a far slicker casting in comparison to the cheaper unit, and at 4-5 times the cost.

They both require seasoning, the finer casting Wagner pan will take less.

The headers of a Vanagon?
Might get too hot in the head areas and require more seasoning to get the job done, but it will work.

Pretty much just as Richie mentioned.
VW gas in-line 4 exhaust manifold actually, will sit at the 50 degree orientation - probably too hot, eh?
You still didn't answer the important question about bacon and corn bread. :lol: (Actually, we have a vintage cast-iron corn bread roll pan - makes about 10-12 1/2 cylinder corn breads.)

Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:50 am

It gets pretty hot right at the ports of the exhaust manifold.

While I have mopped down the pipes on a 1.9 I had years ago, they didn't get any worse than they initially were.

Your findings & results may vary.

Try it out, see what happens, it isn't an expensive or difficult task, give it a trial and report back on your findings.

This would be the fastest way for the answer your seeking.

Wed Nov 18, 2015 1:58 pm

RicoS wrote: Forthwithtx wrote: Now, as most exhaust systems rot from the inside out . . .

Forth, my man, I think you need to put down your Shiner, climb off of your stool at Billy Bob's and spend the coming winter within 500 miles of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee. You'll soon come to realize that in the brutal North, an exhaust system doesn't survive long enough to rust from the inside out.

I can't count how many times I've seen a slip joint exhaust system where at a joint the female end was so wasted away from corrosion that it could be peeled off like a tuna can lid while the mating (and protected) male pipe end was rock solid.

Add a healthy spray of salt solution to the mix of heat cycling, vibration fatigue and embrittlement, and a Vanagon exhaust system doesn't stand a chance.

Richie

:lol: Yeah, I wasn't born a Texan, but I didn't waste any time getting here! (Well, I sorta did. Took me about 22 years in the service, first) I was actually born and raised in Cleveland, OH. The middle of the "Rust Belt".

I do remember replacing 2 year old exhaust systems in teacher's cars to raise money for the High School Auto Shop. Also, tin cans and bailing wire for my cheapskate and broke friends. A little later, I worked at a service station (back when gas stations only sold food in vending machines), so I had a discount and access to all the cool tools.

So, yes, while there is a level of rot that comes from the inside of a standard steel exhaust system, the ratio of outside-to-inside corrosion would, depend on the environment. More so, in your neck of the woods.

Shiner=Yes. Billy Bob's=Noooooo.