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Wed Nov 18, 2015 2:08 pm

dhaavers wrote: x2

OTOH: If your muffler is rusting from the inside, you're probably only drive short distances
and rarely get it hot enough/long enough to burn the moisture out of the cold system.

Best solution for this scenario (other than taking the long way to work) is to punch 3 or 4
nail holes in the bottom of the muffler to allow accumulated moisture to drain. Try it on
your next new muffler...cheap and effective.

- Dave
My wife's ex 2003 jeep liberty had a little hole at the bottom of her muffler. We could see sometimes water dripping from there, and at the beginning i though it was a rupture and muffler was done. But no it was actually made like that.

So yes, that is actually a good thing to do!

Wed Nov 18, 2015 2:23 pm

insyncro wrote: pedrokrusher wrote:
We need someone to do his own experiement on a vanagon waterboxer exhaust, preferably a vanagon used during this winter.
That would be extremely easy as all tubing is well exposed and all that the rear! Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Just picked up my supplies on my lunch break.
Great White aka Trusty Rusty Syncro with his smooth running WBX and stock exhaust will be stinking up RT66 on the way home this evening.

Pics to follow.
Alright alright alright!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X4bg4Q63kJQ

Ahhhhh! Thats very good! I can't wait to see how it looks like on an actual waterboxer =D> =D> =D>

Wed Nov 18, 2015 2:38 pm

Terry Kay wrote: It gets pretty hot right at the port of exhaust manifold.

While I have mopped down the pipes on a 1.9 I had years ago, they didn't get any worse than they initially were.

Your findings & results may vary.

Try it out, see what happens, it isn't an expensive or difficult task, give it a trial and report back on your findings.

This would be the fastest way for the answer your seeking.
Well, TK, you made me think of something...

If you don't feel like doing the whole nine yards, don't want to get dirty, and just hate to work on rusted bolts, you can only apply the peanut oil on the bolts. Appy several times with heat cycle on all the bolts, at the heads and the junctions. This way when its time to replace some parts its going to be easy.

How many times do you hear people saying their bolts broke at the head? What a PITA to remove the remaining of the bolt in a head on a wterboxer... Mmmm... Interesting, and easy peace of mind!

Wed Nov 18, 2015 4:18 pm

Actually, I have never experienced one ounce of problems removing the exhaust bolt, studs-- they back right out with no issues.

Why?

I wave the magic wand over them first.
Heat em' up with my torch, Bada Boom, Bada Bing, finito.
Done in one quick move with the heat.

Believe it or not, I'm smarter than you think.
No screwing around with rusted up , corroded steel into aluminum fasteners here.

And this is on any vehicle, it isn't delegated to just a Vanagon.

Exhaust work generally sucks.
Why make it more difficult by trying to remove fasteners cold?

I wanna get done with this crummy job today, not next month waiting for something that may never happen, soaking my nuts with penetrating oil.

Forget about it.

You can slather up them fasteners with peanut oil if you like.
I don't think it will do much.

Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:45 pm

Here we go Volks:

Less than a $10 investment.

One well used WBX J pipe.

80 grit sanding sponge to scrape dirt and scale off.

Coat #1

After a ten minute round trip drive for coffee.

I will repeat two more times and than update the thread once we have foul weather.

Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:54 pm

Terry Kay wrote: Actually, I have never experienced one ounce of problems removing the exhaust bolt, studs-- they back right out with no issues.

Why?

I wave the magic wand over them first.
Heat em' up with my torch, Bada Boom, Bada Bing, finito.
Done in one quick move with the heat.

Believe it or not, I'm smarter than you think.
No screwing around with rusted up , corroded steel into aluminum fasteners here.

And this in on any vehicle, it isn't delegated to just a Vanagon.

Exhaust work generally sucks.
Why make it more difficult by trying to remove fasteners cold?

I wanna get done with this crummy job today, not next month waiting for something that may never happen, soaking my nuts with pentrating oil.

Forget about it.

You can slather up them fasteners with peanut oil if you like.
I don't think it will do much.
You gave me a good laugh TK! You have a tweeked sense of humor. And darn good at it!
"I wave the magic wand over them". LOL!!

I remember you from the old days on vanagon.com, all the good advise, and strait and crude way of saying things. Thats all good.
So no, i never tough of you as not a smart man.

Me on the other hand, i am more quiet on the internet. I'm all, or nothing kinda guy. I do like to try stuff, make some experiments and see what happens. Sometimes it does not work. And sometimes it really does work.

Anyway, i really though it would make a difference soaking the bolts with peanut oil... Oh well, if it does not, just too bad.

Wed Nov 18, 2015 7:05 pm

Great Dylan!!!
Nice to see a more normally used exhaust pipe getting the peanut oil treatment.
We can see a little difference from my old rusty crusty pipe.
Very good to see how it works right away after just one treatment!

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:08 am

This idea is great. I am all over cast iron pans for cooking and had redone one of my pans with flaxseed after reading that this left a really great hard and slick polymerized coating and it is true, way better then the canola oil or whatever I had around at the time, the link posted earlier has a good write up on it, (next thing to make them even slicker is polishing them but I digress...).

Winter is here -18 C right now but definitely going to try this on my diesel once spring arrives next year but will use Linseed oil since a litre is about $16 from the hardware store and its from the same seed - flax. The food grade flax oil is double the price so will keep that for my pans. I think I will even try and do a comparison between the raw oil and the boiled oil to see the difference. Will post pics next year.

Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:28 am

So here I am, 900kms in on my new TiiCo inline 4 and the silver factory paint has finally burned off the exhaust header.

I was thinking of going high temp powdercoating or ceramic and then I run across this thread.

Would you guys just coat the exhaust manifold and header with oil right down to the Cat and be done with it or would you do a powdercoat instead ?

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:33 pm

After 30 minutes of driving on coat#1:

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:37 pm

Wow that looks great for only 1 coat, starting to look seasoned.

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:41 pm

Yukon Syncro wrote: Wow that looks great for only 1 coat, starting to look seasoned.

Yup, three heat cycles on coat#1 thus far.
I won't be able to coat again until tomorrow and it is raining here today, so that van stayed in the garage to not subject it to the elements until I get three coats on.

Hope this helps.

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:41 pm

is that organic peanut oil??

Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:44 pm

Merian wrote: is that organic peanut oil??

I looked at my Coop to buy organic, not kidding.
Way more money...this is a $3.50 quart and supplies from Walmart for under $10.00.

An organic pint was $17 and change.

Thu Nov 19, 2015 6:35 pm

That looks really good Dylan!
Very interesting to see that kind of surface with just one coat of peanut oil and several heat cycles / drives on a regular exhaust pipe.
Excellent!

Fri Nov 20, 2015 2:37 pm

Forthwithtx wrote:
I was actually born and raised in Cleveland, OH. The middle of the "Rust Belt".

In that case, you've paid you dues in spades. It's also the pothole capital of the known universe. Those guys in the west and south have no idea of what we've seen - they're in Never Never Land.

Cleveland is at the epicenter of the Rust Belt and it also has a Snow Belt that runs between it and Akron. There's a 15 mile stretch of the O Turnpike that has blizzard conditions from about October until June. It may be clear either east or west of it, but you'll sure as hell hit snow there.

Richie

Fri Nov 20, 2015 2:53 pm

insyncro wrote:
An organic pint was $17 and change.

Screw that, Dylan. Just buddy up with some redneck who is having Turducken for thanksgiving and you'll have a lifetime supply for free.

Richie

Fri Nov 20, 2015 3:05 pm

RicoS wrote: insyncro wrote:
An organic pint was $17 and change.

Screw that, Dylan. Just buddy up with some redneck who is having Turducken for thanksgiving and you'll have a lifetime supply for free.

Richie

I've never fried me one o' dem :wink:

Fri Nov 20, 2015 11:37 pm

You have never tasted a real yummy turkey.
Deep fried is great.

With a handful of Rocky Mountain Oysters deep fried & sliced thin as a side dish----the best----

Finding a deep frying pot with used peanut oil would be the least expensive way to go here--

Plus--you'll smell like Tom Turkey going down the road--or some Bull Fries--

Yeowza--

I was at Wally World this evening--and the peanut oil in a 3 gallon container is $29.80--and this isn't the good stuff--kinda pricey.

That pipe your side dressing is seasoning quite well-Looks real good Dylan.

Sat Nov 21, 2015 7:34 am

Terry Kay wrote:
I was at Wally World this evening--and the peanut oil in a 3 gallon container is $29.80--and this isn't the good stuff--kinda pricey.

Thanks for the heads-up, Wild Man. As far as I know, Wal*Mart peanut oil isn't Kosher and it also might have anti-foaming agents in it.

But, then again, Kosher might not be such a good thing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecGWikgw3jw

Richie