TheSamba.com :: View topic - Building an adjustable beam with Avis adjusters (Tutorial)

Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:27 pm

I think they would be too short.

Sun Dec 02, 2007 5:12 pm

They also come in longer lengths for the guys who run spacers.

Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:21 pm

Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:57 am

OK once all this is done, how do you do the actual height adjustment? :?: I am thinking.... raise bus with jack, loosen adjusters, lower bus with jack to desired ride height, tighten adjusters.

Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:09 am

that doesnt work because then the springs will compress and youll be lower than desired height.

just need to account for the suspension compression.

Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:21 am

powellscooter wrote: OK once all this is done, how do you do the actual height adjustment? :?: I am thinking.... raise bus with jack, loosen adjusters, lower bus with jack to desired ride height, tighten adjusters.

If you have some car ramps, put the front tires on them, use the floor jack to support the weight of the bus, loosen the adjusters and lower the floor jack etc...

Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:47 am

I usually set the bus up on stands, loosen the adjusters and jack the wheels / tires up to set the height.

Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:05 pm

mr. warehouse wrote: I usually set the bus up on stands, loosen the adjusters and jack the wheels / tires up to set the height.
Thanks MR. I appreciate it

Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:41 am

:shock: :shock:
LOOKS SO GOOD!!
thank you for your info! :wink:

Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:36 pm

Just got done putting Avis adjusters on the bus. After reading the threads I decided to do it a bit different. First thing I did was use a spot rivet drill to remove the dimples I could get to. No damage to the center spring retainer at all and was easy to move it out of the way with a few taps. Next I cut the slot just a little bigger than it needed to be. I was able to get a die grinder in and smooth out the rest of the dimple area as well as a LITTLE grinding on the rest of the area. Now the spring retainer moves easily by hand. After welding in the adjusters there is a little heat warpage but the adjusters still move easy. I will use black RTV to cover the holes so there will not be more heat distortion due to welding. I recommend a 1" square tube to beat the spring retainers out of the way because it has less chance of rounding off the edge of the spring holes. If you beat it too much the hole will get peened over and then you have a tuff time getting the springs back in. Drilling out the dimples solve this problem.

Wed May 28, 2008 1:42 am

Hey all!
Could someone tell me how to drill out this holes without damaging the inner part where the bolt is put in.

Wed May 28, 2008 2:05 am

Hey klemen!

after you've drilled out the diples in the beam that hold the centre-block in place you can slide the block a bit away from the center.
That way you have room to change the bolthole into a slot.

Be sure to slide the centre-block back in plave when welding up the dimples again.
Also rotate the block while you weld to prevent it from getting welded stuck!

Wed May 28, 2008 9:11 am

I just installed adjusters on my bus while the beam was still bolted in. I used a 1-1/2" heavy wall pipe and 5lb sledge to smack the retainer off the dimples then I used a small cut off wheel to cut the slot and a die grinder with a burr bit to grind the dimples down from the inside. Smacked the retainer back to center from the other side, weld in the adjusters and it's done. I used the avis style adjusters but I disected them and rewelded and now they resemble the Bus Boys "Albatross" style. I will post some pictures as soon as I locate my camera, mia for 3-weeks now.
Shhhh...it was on my bay window bus but the concept is the same. Oh, and I was RAISING my bus not lowering.

Wed May 28, 2008 12:42 pm

Are you talking about these things?

BTW, how hard it is to just smack the retainer off?

Wed May 28, 2008 3:38 pm

I create the slot with a cut off wheel. Yes those are the dimples

Thu May 29, 2008 7:51 am

Klemen Klemen wrote:

BTW, how hard it is to just smack the retainer off?

Yep, those are the dimples, 3 per tube. 1-2 of them are hidden by the pivot bracket. You will need a 5lb sledge hammer as a claw or ball peen is not heavy enough and a 3-foot long x 1-1/2" pipe. I think it took 7-8 good solid smacks to get it off the dimples. I have narrowed several bug beams and installed adjusters but this was my first bus beam. Installed adjusters while beam was still in the bus, this was so much easier plus I only had to remove the shift rod. All the tie rods, brake lines, master cylinder/booster, clutch, e-brake and gas cables stayed there. Was almost too easy.

Although I like the bug style with adjuster bolt instead of avis/albatross style with the meshing teeth. Have not seen anyone use that style on a bus but making adjustments on the fly would be easier.

Thu May 29, 2008 2:12 pm

Actually what I do now is cut the retainer out totally. I then hammer the dimples with a punch and then set the retainer back in and fill in the hole except for where the adjuster bolt will slide.

Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:38 am

Pictures as promised.

Cut the slots

The Avis style before I cut it up

1-1/2" pipe with "C" channel for pounding

Grind the dimples from the inside with this

My creation: The "Avis-atross"

Set to raise 2" or drop 4" from stock height.

Ta-da

Wed Sep 10, 2008 8:32 am

my beam does not have dimpplies it has long crimps ...so now what

Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:05 am

I have never seen one like that. Can you post a pic of it?