TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Feb 28, 2016 9:13 am

So I've spent copious amounts of time searching the archives and on line looking for a rebuild kit for my leaking Brosol pump. I've found plenty but none for this style pump. Eventually, I gave up and bought a 113-127-025D sealed replacement but I know these guys tend to have too much pressure (gasket dance) and I would still rather rebuild the "OG" unit.

Surely I'm missing something, so does anyone know where to pick up this particular kit?

Thanks!

Sun Feb 28, 2016 11:39 am

The problem is the rubber diaphragm area is sealed in such a way as to not be openable for the average VW owner, due to being factory crimped together.

Sun Feb 28, 2016 12:15 pm

The only problem I had with the original one is leaking from the oring on the top half. Really, all I need is that replacement oring and figured surely a kit was available with new oring and screen but I'm guessing not.

Sun Feb 28, 2016 12:55 pm

Fredrok wrote: The only problem I had with the original one is leaking from the oring on the top half. Really, all I need is that replacement oring and figured surely a kit was available with new oring and screen but I'm guessing not.

I've seen rebuild kits for that pump recently. The brosal is just a copy of the Pierburg pump made in Germany. Search for Pierburg fuel pump rebuild.

Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:22 pm

wcfvw69 wrote: I've seen rebuild kits for that pump recently. The brosal is just a copy of the Pierburg pump made in Germany. Search for Pierburg fuel pump rebuild.

Thanks Bill. No joy so far but may be time to just throw in the towel.

Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:38 pm

Why not just measure the oring and order a new one?

Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:41 pm

I've made new gaskets for the upper cover, the issue is when it starts leaking from the lower crimped joint. I'm sure it would be a simple pump to rebuild if it was screwed together opposed to the crimp joint.

Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:01 am

If you have a local seal house just take the old one in and they can match it up. There is a fiber washer on the screw also.

This is my go to for seals and packing - https://www.zatkoff.com

Mon Feb 29, 2016 9:39 pm

It's an aftermarket pump. Those never have or had rebuild kits sold. All you need is a rubber washer under that screw head, any decent hardware store should
have multiple suitable washers for that application. Maybe even a faucet bibb washer would do the job, but you might have to enlarge the center screw hole a bit.

Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:10 pm

Thanks all. I'm just going to move on to the newer design and play with the pressure if required. That oring isn't round in cross section, it's actually square which limits hardware store options (and fuel compatibility issues, etc.) but then I still have the lower crimped area that I guess is a failure point as well eventually.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 7:14 am

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1825136

Here's what you should do. Buy a rebuilt original Pierburg fuel pump. I just linked this one as an example. These were the absolute BEST fuel pumps made for our VW's. If they are using NOS rebuild kits with the correct tensioned diaphragm springs, they will put out 2.5 to 3.0PSI.

I've rebuilt these pumps with NOS rebuild kits and had 3PSI after installation. They will out last any of the "new" POS pumps sold today.

These pumps came with clips on the pivot pin so they don't walk out of the pump body like the new ones do that don't have those clips to secure the pin.

They also have a check valve in them to prevent fuel from going past them and flooding your engine while your VW is parked on a hill nose up.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 9:55 am

What are the BBT rebuild kits and where do you get them?

Tue Mar 01, 2016 10:01 am

BarryL wrote: What are the BBT rebuild kits and where do you get them?

Barry, I saw them listed once with one of the classic VW parts companies in England. I emailed them to see where they are manufactured and they said Brazil. They said these were good kits. I didn't buy any as I found some NOS rebuild kits from VW of Mexico.

Last I checked, Bug City still had some of the VW of Mexico kits. They are very good.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:39 am

wcfvw69 wrote: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1825136

Here's what you should do. Buy a rebuilt original Pierburg fuel pump. I just linked this one as an example. These were the absolute BEST fuel pumps made for our VW's. If they are using NOS rebuild kits with the correct tensioned diaphragm springs, they will put out 2.5 to 3.0PSI.

I've rebuilt these pumps with NOS rebuild kits and had 3PSI after installation. They will out last any of the "new" POS pumps sold today.

These pumps came with clips on the pivot pin so they don't walk out of the pump body like the new ones do that don't have those clips to secure the pin.

They also have a check valve in them to prevent fuel from going past them and flooding your engine while your VW is parked on a hill nose up.

Took your advice Bill and bought this one after checking his feedback. I was still uneasy about replacing junk with junk anyway and would rather have an OG, serviceable pump on there. Thanks for the heads up!

Tue Mar 01, 2016 3:56 pm

Fredrok wrote: wcfvw69 wrote: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1825136

Here's what you should do. Buy a rebuilt original Pierburg fuel pump. I just linked this one as an example. These were the absolute BEST fuel pumps made for our VW's. If they are using NOS rebuild kits with the correct tensioned diaphragm springs, they will put out 2.5 to 3.0PSI.

I've rebuilt these pumps with NOS rebuild kits and had 3PSI after installation. They will out last any of the "new" POS pumps sold today.

These pumps came with clips on the pivot pin so they don't walk out of the pump body like the new ones do that don't have those clips to secure the pin.

They also have a check valve in them to prevent fuel from going past them and flooding your engine while your VW is parked on a hill nose up.

Took your advice Bill and bought this one after checking his feedback. I was still uneasy about replacing junk with junk anyway and would rather have an OG, serviceable pump on there. Thanks for the heads up!

I think that's a great move on your part! Again, I LLOOVVEE those Pierburg pumps. They were so well made that I rarely see any worn parts inside them other than the diaphragms and gaskets. Just double check the inlet and outlet pipes are tight (I'm sure they will be) and put a bunch of grease in the pump lever area before install.

Here's some pictures from when I rebuilt my 67 bug engines pump. In one of the pictures, you can see the engine is running and the fuel pressure gauge is at 3psi. You have to love NOS rebuild kits. :)

Tue Mar 01, 2016 5:30 pm

Great info Bill, thank you. The one that was on there (before it began leaking) was putting out 2.0-2.5 at idle and as low as 1.5psi at high RPMs. BUT, it ran great so I never worried about it.

Ironically, one of the things I didn't like about the Pierburg pump when I was looking at those and going through the engine over a year ago was the press-in hose nipples since I had gone through the trouble of tapping my carb inlet to alleviate the blow-off issue. Who knows, maybe I'll eventually do the same to the pump but I've not read about instances of those blowing off like the carb.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:14 pm

Fredrok wrote: Great info Bill, thank you. The one that was on there (before it began leaking) was putting out 2.0-2.5 at idle and as low as 1.5psi at high RPMs. BUT, it ran great so I never worried about it.

Ironically, one of the things I didn't like about the Pierburg pump when I was looking at those and going through the engine over a year ago was the press-in hose nipples since I had gone through the trouble of tapping my carb inlet to alleviate the blow-off issue. Who knows, maybe I'll eventually do the same to the pump but I've not read about instances of those blowing off like the carb.

Some people will pull those inlet/outlet pipes out of the pump. They rough up the area of the nipple that goes back into the body of the pump with some sandpaper and then apply a thin coat of JB weld on the outside of the nipple. Obviously, they are careful to not put too much on where it would push inside the pump. Just a thin coat works and they won't come out again nor can you tell the JB weld was applied if done carefully.

What causes the nipples to get loose is people using the correct German fuel line that grips the nipples on the pump tightly. When they want to remove the fuel line, they tug/pull on it hard which can loosen the nipples or even pull them out. I always use a razor blade and cut the rubber lines off the nipples to prevent that from happening.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 6:33 pm

wcfvw69 wrote: When they want to remove the fuel line, they tug/pull on it hard which can loosen the nipples or even pull them out. I always use a razor blade and cut the rubber lines off the nipples to prevent that from happening.

Pushing off on the end of the fuel line with a slot tip screwdriver will keep the flexible German fuel line from gripping down onto the metal lines. German fuel line has same vice like gripping action like Chinese finger cuffs do. The harder you pull the harder they grip onto.

Tue Mar 01, 2016 7:40 pm

Ditto on both accounts guys. I have always carefully slit the fuel hose and sacrificed for a new piece. However, in the last 10 years or so, I've been applying an extremely light coating of clear synthetic or dielectric grease to the ends (all low pressure stuff) with the fuel injection style clamps and have never had a failure and things come apart much easier down the road. Same applies to gaskets you intend to possibly disassemble (playing with fuel pressure, carb swaps, etc) and especially oil filter gaskets (getting away from vintage VW stuff).

Sun Mar 06, 2016 6:05 pm

A pic to match yours Bill. It took 3 gaskets total but it's steady at 2.8psi. It really did not like the initial 4psi and was still unhappy even at 3.2 before the 3rd gasket.

However, it's seeping a bit at the top delivery valve plate and I believe that's because the top has been sucked down through the years and contacts at the corners, not compressing the gasket/ring enough. Will try putting that on a sander to remove a small amount at the corners or Bob that sold me the pump is hunting his stash for a good plate.