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Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:46 am

My build is for a full weight beetle for street use and occasional strip use.
2332 build in progress
84mm CB super race crank (wedge mated)
CB super race rods
1.4 rockers
94mm p&cs
CB super pro heads 44x37.5 95s
Fk46 cam
48 ida. With 3rd progressive hole
Kennedy stage 2
Daiken
10-1 compression
Berg Equalizer 6lb

With my build above I have a wedgemated crank with a 10lb flywheel

ideally I think i would changed to a 12lb flywheel but with it being wedgemated and being in the UK where I don't believe anybody can do wedgemating it looks like I'm going to go with the 10lb
I have added the Berg Equalizer which might help a bit.

Can anybody advise on how I will get on with this light flywheel with my setup?

Thu Sep 15, 2016 12:23 pm

Is it a stock flywheel that is turned down on the back side? Did you weigh it yourself? The reason I ask these questions, is to make sure that quality is good. This is more important then the weight. If its a quality flywheel, I would PREFER the 10lb flywheel. I had a 8lb flywheel, it was turned down so much on the back that it didn't look safe to use, I used it as a Frisbee instead.

I wouldn't use the berg equalizer pulley. But that's one of those things that is a love it or hate it like "which oil is the best" kind of deal. To me adding weight costs horsepower.

I like your combo by the way, everything about it says "no compromise, I'm gonna haul @ss"

Jeff

Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:12 pm

shit can the berg pulley and put a good aluminum sand seal pulley on it. adding weight is ok if you do it on the power transmiting end.....(flywheel end) not the free end. that can break cranks. it should move right along with that combo. make sure there is valve spring clearance for the 1.4 rockers(no coil bind) I would also use total seal rings. as far as how it will go wit that flywheel.probably a little diferent than a 12 pound flywheel, but not a lot. that 2332 should have a lot of torque anyway.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:22 pm

Justcliff wrote:
Can anybody advise on how I will get on with this light flywheel with my setup?

Just fine; and if you don't have a heavier flywheel to compare, then you'll never notice the difference anyway.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:54 pm

Thank you for the replies, and advice.
I believe the flywheel is stock so quality is there.
The Berg Equalizer hasn't been purchased yet as this was a part I was unsure about. So maybe consider a decent aluminium one with steal hub.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 2:29 pm

The JayCee pulleys are nice.

Doesn't John Maher Racing do that type of machine work in the UK?

Wouldn't that cam be better in the 10.5-11:1 compression range?

Thu Sep 15, 2016 2:32 pm

You will be fine with the 10 Lb. Flywheel and you will also be fine with the Berg Equilizer pulley. I won't build an engine wiothout one.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 2:48 pm

74 Thing wrote: The JayCee pulleys are nice.

Doesn't John Maher Racing do that type of machine work in the UK?

Wouldn't that cam be better in the 10.5-11:1 compression range?

John Maher did I believe but pretty much has disappeared now. That's what I've been told anyway

The compression range was maybe a safe option for street use but may change the closer I get to putting it all together

Thu Sep 15, 2016 3:37 pm

How much street and how much strip. You have to be true to yourself. You can drag race a street car but a drag car is a real bitch to drive on the street. If your 70% strip & 30% street then keep the fk-46. If 50/50 then get the fk-45. If it's mostly street and just a little strip then get the FK-44.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 5:48 pm

On the other end of the spectrum --- I was very satisfied with the pulling power of my first T-4 2.0 914 engine in my bug after driving it around NY. For sure not a street racer but a great highway car. Could drive all day at 75 or 80. One night I was on the NYS Thruway and decided to see what it really could do. I waited till the traffic got way ahead and at 60 blasted to over 100, then things got out of hand, even with my dropped front spindles racing tires front and rear anti sway bars, the car started to lift in front and my steering got real light. Took my foot off the gas but it kept going. Now I am approaching the traffic. I kept tapping the brake and finally it started to slow down as I merged into the traffic.. What the hell went on, was it a return spring on the carb??? Nope, it was the Stock T-4 Bus Flywheel and Clutch I used, the weight just kept it going. My entire rotating mass, flywheel, clutch, crank and pulley were all balanced together, it just wanted to keep going.

I had a few cars after that that I used lighter flywheels but to honest I now have the same bus flywheel and clutch and love it, great for highway driving, I just stay under 90.

When I raced MGA's back in the 70s we loved light flywheels, go into a turn and no need to hit the brakes, just get off the pedal , then back on it for a quick recovery.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:06 pm

there is a LOT of energy in a heavy flywheel spinning at 6-8k RPM. In a drag car you can get an incredible launch with a heavy flywheel and a 8k RPM start.

Thu Sep 15, 2016 10:57 pm

vwracerdave wrote: How much street and how much strip. You have to be true to yourself. You can drag race a street car but a drag car is a real bitch to drive on the street. If your 70% strip & 30% street then keep the fk-46. If 50/50 then get the fk-45. If it's mostly street and just a little strip then get the FK-44.

Probably 70% Street 30% strip. Car won't be a be daily just used on weekends and going to shows, when the weather is nice.
The Berg Equilizer has been recommended to me a few times, and I know people have used them for years without any issues. I've read up on them and I'm still undecided what to do. I thought the weight may help a little with the lighter flywheel. Although maybe adding weight at that end may not necessarily be the right thing to do.
Other options I've been looking at is the Saco pulleys. With my case being machined for a sand seal the saco might be a easier option?