TheSamba.com :: View topic - Official lazy person's stupid question thread

Mon Jun 16, 2025 12:27 pm

I am in a similar position of the poor OP on this thread.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

My new rod bearings came in from GoWesty and I am going to attempt to replace them this afternoon. Could anyone point me toward a good step by step for that? I have looked all over the internet and Bentley but haven't found anything definitive about getting to the bearings themselves. Is this a job that requires dropping the engine? Am I just removing the head?

Jasper

Mon Jun 16, 2025 12:59 pm

@lobsterguy

Replacing the rod bearings is not going to be an afternoon job.

The cost of the necessary gasket kits (one for each side of the engine) will be a lot more expense than what you paid for the rod bearings.

-Drain coolant
-Drain the oil
-Remove Fuel Injection wiring
-Remove Fuel Injection hoses/pipes
-Remove Intake and associated bits
-Remove associated accessories, such as alternator, etc.
-Remove plug wires
-Remove valve covers
-Remove Rockers
-Pull push rods
-Remove Exhaust system
-Remove anything bolted to the heads, including hoses
-Remove the heads

From there, sliding off the water jackets/cylinders is something I've never done on a WBXer engine. As I understand, it is not an easy endeavor, especially if you want to keep the pistons in the cylinders to maintain their relationship.

If I were doing this job, I'd remove the engine and go to the bottom (split the case), especially, if I was seeing bits in the oil per the thread you linked.

Others will chime-in.

Mon Jun 16, 2025 1:33 pm

Thanks for the note Andy. I figured it would take longer than an afternoon anyways. I have a remarkable ability to make jobs last 10x what they should. My mom says its a talent. I'll get cracking on it and might be back here with questions along the way. Pulling the engine seems like the more through job, but worth it. I appreciate the advice.

Jasper

Tue Jun 17, 2025 10:25 am

So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.

The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me.

Tue Jun 17, 2025 10:46 am

shadetreemech wrote: So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.

The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me.
I would not ignore this. Should the cat’s medium shift around it could lead to significant clogging and a host of unwanted problems. I understand the cost of a new CA cat is staggering, but…

Tue Jun 17, 2025 11:32 am

Red Ryder wrote: shadetreemech wrote: So, a California catalytic convertor I got on sale a few years back and installed 4 years ago makes a sound like a loose metal disc rattling around. Doesn't make the sound once its up to road temp.

The question is , what to do? Possibilities range between replace the cat (just passed smog) to do nothing. That sound bugs me.
I would not ignore this. Should the cat’s medium shift around it could lead to significant clogging and a host of unwanted problems. I understand the cost of a new CA cat is staggering, but…

Check the O2 sensor(s) to rule out possible root cause of cat failure.
...Ask me how I know.

Tue Jun 17, 2025 4:26 pm

AndyBees wrote:
From there, sliding off the water jackets/cylinders is something I've never done on a WBXer engine. As I understand, it is not an easy endeavor, especially if you want to keep the pistons in the cylinders to maintain their relationship.

A guy named Pete (can't remember his Samba handle) had a really good write up on his site on removing the heads. Someone else will likely remember his Samba name which would make the search easier. Hopefully the information he had on his site is still out there and searchable, maybe it's here on The Samba somewhere.

Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:20 pm

Rm182 fridge on 12VDC.

I upgraded my house power system, and the fridge now works as good as it gets in all three modes.

on 12VDC it got to 30F overnight from my full 100AH lipo. (load was 4.9 amps) IIR the 12VDC runs flat out with no control.

I am wondering if anyone has put a thermostat control on the 12VDC to limit try and control the temp with it?

I am thinking of modifying the 120 VAC thermostatic control with a relay to switch both 12 and 120 at the same time.

it could be a fools errand, but I'm wondering if its possible run it off of solar and cycle the 12VDC rather than flat out (target 1/3 less power consumption cycling at 40F)

Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:55 pm

You could add an Inkbird or equivalent temperature controller. Use two separate relays for the 12V and 120V though.

e.g. there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Thermostat-Controller-DROK-Temperature/dp/B07GQPT9VG?th=1

Use its relay for the 12V and also to control a relay with 120V capable contacts.

Wed Jun 18, 2025 1:58 pm

Looking to add an auxiliary fuse box to my van. I have a couple of accessories that I would like to be able to run off the battery and I want everything to be guarded. I do eventually plan on adding a house battery/solar/all that jazz, but right now I just need a couple of auxiliary 12v circuits.

What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block?

The current plan is that this will live under the drivers seat, so I'll need to be able to go from the starter battery to this block.

Wed Jun 18, 2025 3:48 pm

ProbablyNotIan wrote:
What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block?
It depends on two factors: the length of the wire, and the total current pulled.
List all the elements hooked up to your aux panel, including future ones, sum their respective amps, that will be your total current. Tell us what these numbers are, and we'll help you further![/quote]

Example:
USB Outlet 4 A
Fan 2.5A
(Future) Propex Heater 2A
Fridge 7 A

TOTAL 4 + 2.5 + 2 + 7 = 15.5 Amps

Thu Jun 19, 2025 8:01 am

ProbablyNotIan wrote: Looking to add an auxiliary fuse box to my van. I have a couple of accessories that I would like to be able to run off the battery and I want everything to be guarded. I do eventually plan on adding a house battery/solar/all that jazz, but right now I just need a couple of auxiliary 12v circuits.

What gauge wire do I need to run from the battery to the fuse block?

The current plan is that this will live under the drivers seat, so I'll need to be able to go from the starter battery to this block.

I have used this chart many many times.

In general Blue Sea is a great resource for 12v electric.

Mon Jun 23, 2025 9:27 am

Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.

I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.

Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….

Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already.

Mon Jun 23, 2025 12:41 pm

Chris-a wrote: Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.

I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.

Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….
Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already.

An Inflatable Seat Cushion Lightweight with Memory Foam might be another option to gain that 1" or so. Less work and firmness can be adjusted
https://www.atepaoutdoors.com/products/atepa-infla...on2=1-pack
10% discount with "WELCOME" & shipping.
Or more color choices at:
https://www.amazon.com/ATEPA-Inflatable-Lightweigh...5&th=1
I use one for long drives so my backside does not get sore.

Mon Jun 23, 2025 1:38 pm

Chris-a wrote: Raising driver seat height? Thought I saw a thread but can’t find it.

I pulled the swivel mechanism from my drivers seat because I never swivel that seat and I wanted to put my starting battery in that compartment. That worked breat for the battery. Now then I find my knees would like that 1” or so of height I lost, and if the seat was slightly higher I could recline a smidge more before the back hits the cabinet/sink.

Thinking if i can find some corresponding female seat rails I could weld some 1” or 3/4 square tubing spacers to those and then weld that whole assembly to the rails of my seat. Or vice versa might be better and weld to van body rails….

Anyways, no need to reinvent if its been documented already.

You could do the recarro adaptors. Bolt the top to the bottom of your seat and then bolt the bottom half to your VW rails. Wouldn't really be adapting anything, but would give you teh 1" in height and a much better mechanism for moving the seat forward.

Wed Jun 25, 2025 6:53 pm

Hi to all,

If I run the engine, let’s say for 200 km, with a lifter unaligned with the pushrod, can I damage the engine, or it will be simply noisy.

I am not sure at all that I have an unaligned pushrod, but certainly I still have a noisy lifter and I plan to give it a ride on the highway to Quebec city to try to get it charge with oil.

Best Regards,

Martin

Wed Jun 25, 2025 7:23 pm

maco70 wrote: Hi to all,

If I run the engine, let’s say for 200 km, with a lifter unaligned with the pushrod, can I damage the engine, or it will be simply noisy.

I am not sure at all that I have an unaligned pushrod, but certainly I still have a noisy lifter and I plan to give it a ride on the highway to Quebec city to try to get it charge with oil.

Best Regards,

Martin

You should have very close to the same amount of thread sticking out through the lock nut on each adjusting screw. If there is a lot of variance then the valve adjustment technique likely needs some work. There are ways that one can encourage a soft lifter to pump up.

Thu Jul 10, 2025 7:25 am

If my radiator has 17 inside 2 circles stamped near the bleed bolt, that means it's production date is 2017, right?

Fri Jul 18, 2025 5:54 am

If someone (dunno who) goes to the propane fill station and they try to fill the propane tank of their Westy and it takes no propane but the tank gets super cold and starts dripping condensation, is the tank already filled?

Fri Jul 18, 2025 7:03 am

4Gears4Tires wrote: If someone (dunno who) goes to the propane fill station and they try to fill the propane tank of their Westy and it takes no propane but the tank gets super cold and starts dripping condensation, is the tank already filled?

Sounds likely. DId you turn on the stove and see if you have gas coming out? They also make tank level indicators that you just hold against the tank.