TheSamba.com :: View topic - Engine break in procedure and break in oil

Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:29 pm

I just stay away from the extremes.
Keep the rpms above idle but well below redline. Don't let it get too hot. That's about it tho.

IMO you can seat the rings and the cam at the same time, if you break in the engine on a dyno or in a test vehicle. My "engine stand" is street legal :D

Sun Jan 14, 2018 10:09 pm

It would be nice to have an engine break-in car, a Baja or something where the engine is easy to access.

Tue May 01, 2018 5:05 pm

Can any engine break in procedure, oil type and/or additive be validated with experimental data, pictures and measurements of parts with and without flowing specific recommendations?

Here is an example of gear oil information and experiments:
The Difference between GL-4 and GL-5 Gear Oils by Richard Widman .
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

Tue May 01, 2018 5:09 pm

Yes and no
Your not going to find extensive studies of antique VWs, but the parts you are breaking in are rings, cam, and bearings. You can find plenty of info on that. So,, which type of rings and cam you have put in your old VW engine will determine what procedure is needed.

Tue Sep 04, 2018 6:32 am

vwracerdave wrote: Oil is dirt cheap compared to blowing up a new engine. Brad Penn makes a 30w break-in oil and so do a few other companies. If not use Valvoline 10W-30 VR-1 racing oil. DO NOT break the engine in with 20W-50. I fill all the way to the top full mark on the dipstick then another 1/2 qt. for break-in. Read the directions supplied with all new Engle cams on proper break-in. 1500-1800 RPM for 20-25 minutes. After initial engine break-in allow the engine to cool completely 8-10 hrs. to allow the engine to normalize. Change oil and adjust valves. Tune the carbs and set the timing. After the first 15-20 miles and carb tuning you can hammer down and drive it like you stole it. You DO NOT need to baby the engine the first 500-1000 miles. Change oil and adjust valves again after 300 miles and again at 1000 miles. Then go to regular maintenance.

What weight oil do I use after the initial 20-25 min break in?

Tue Sep 04, 2018 7:52 am

For breaking in a new build with CB cam/lifters, and AA piston/cylinder set soon I've been thinking on oil weight. I plan to run 10W30 unless oil pressure tells me otherwise, and was planning on at least doing the break-in with VR-1. Would I want to go with a straight weight for initial fire up (SAE30 is available it seems) or should I stick to 10W30?

Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:02 am

What weight oil you need is determined by the oil pressure you are getting at running temps. I run Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 racing oil all year long in my street driven VW's.

Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:10 am

For breaking it in, should I just run 10W30 then? I see plenty of folks using straight grades for break-in, but I'm not trying to be all monkey-see monkey-do.

I have yet to need thicker oil on any daily that wasn't really worn out or loose, so I plan on 10W30 on the new engine, it'll have a blueprinted 26mm that is on a very mild 1776, so nothing unusual or crazy.