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Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:37 am

The rear axle boots on my ‘67 Beetle leak gear oil...but only when the rear of the car is elevated on jack stands and the rear axles are drooping. Not an excessive amount of leaking, about an ounce per side on the drip pan after the car has been up on jackstands for a few days.

Is this “normal”, or is it a sign that the boots need to be replaced?

Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:43 am

FL-Frank wrote: The rear axle boots on my ‘67 Beetle leak gear oil...but only when the rear of the car is elevated on jack stands and the rear axles are drooping. Not an excessive amount of leaking, about an ounce per side on the drip pan after the car has been up on jackstands for a few days.

Is this “normal”, or is it a sign that the boots need to be replaced?

the boots should not leak. they are opening up when the car is raised, OR simply the tilt of the tranny is causing oil to to leak do to oil level thru leaky boots.

At anyrate, time for new boots, they should never leak, period.

also take a look at the oil level, make sure you have enough oil in there

plan on new boots, and maybe a good time to drain and refresh the oil, at least top it off to replace the loss.

be aware of correct placement of the boot seam. It need be oriented correctly to prevent failure.

Bug On, My Oily Friend!

Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:28 am

I believe the axle boots can weep when your car is jacked up as the angle of the axle tube stretching the top will compress the bottom of the boot. This can also cause a tear in the boot, which would require changing the boot.

With the car back on the ground, the boots should not weep or leak. If they do leak, replace them.

Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:55 am

The boots should never leak. Jacked up, on the ground, or slammed to the ground.

If there's a leak anytime. The boot/s need to be replaced.

Last time I changed one I had the car on ramps. That got the axle tube damn near level and kept the new boot off of the frame horn.

Make sure to orient the seam in the 10 or 2 o'clock position.

Put the large end on the trans first and tighten the band. then if you can shove the small end toward the trans and tighten the band.

Job done.

Good Luck.

Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:29 am

Previous discussion regarding this:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=624324

Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:33 pm

mrmdls wrote: I believe the axle boots can weep when your car is jacked up as the angle of the axle tube stretching the top will compress the bottom of the boot. This can also cause a tear in the boot, which would require changing the boot.

As in the link posted just above, they should not leak, and if they do, it's a sign the tips weren't followed, particularly shoving the small end inward a tad before tightening the clamp, so it has extra slack for when it's jacked up (or bottomed out).

It's a seemingly simple job but with several ways to be less than perfect and then leak.

Sun Feb 04, 2018 1:51 pm

I'm in total agreement with you KTPhil! That's why I chose to add the link concerning the previous discussion on the subject. Weeping while the car is jacked up, with boots that are in good shape with no obvious tears do not necessarily require replacement of the boot(s).

Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:59 am

if they leak when car is jacked up they leak also during driving.

It can happen to have rear suspension fully extended, examples: hard emergency bralking, a small offroad, holes in the road, etc.

Sat Aug 04, 2018 1:14 pm

I think I'll post here instead of start a new topic as I have a leaking axle boot too. I just installed the transaxle and filled it with gear oil to find that one of the boots leaks.

I thought it was the outer clamp on the axle tube, so I recleaned and tightened that being careful to have a tight seam. It still leaked and I cleaned it up and put a paper towel between the boot and the frame, so I could see where it leaked. I checked every day and wiped the trace of oil away and tightened the hose clamp a little more. Then I realized the lead didn't first wet the axle tube, the boot was wetted with oil first. I cleaned the area up with brake cleaner and started checking every 30 minutes with a bright light to find that the origin was a pin hole in the axle boot. It was tiny, as if made with a hypodermic needle, and was in the last bellow, facing down, next to the axle tube clamp. Anyway, I get to change the boot and I just filled the gearbox with synthetic oil, so...

How much oil do I need to removed from the swing axle gear box to remove the boot without that creating a continuing leak. The easy answer is lower than the large flange, but any good idea how much oil that is? I plan to use the gear oil pump in reverse and pump some of the new oil back out, then change the boot and pump it back in. Thanks for your help.

Sat Aug 04, 2018 1:48 pm

EVfun wrote: the origin was a pin hole in the axle boot. It was tiny, as if made with a hypodermic needle.
Anyone game for cleaning the area with brake cleaner and trying to seal with a dab of silicone glue ???

Anyway, I've replaced swing axle boots without draining out some gear oil first; but good idea to top off after the repair. So if you replace the boot, read up on which way to point the seam, and how to take strain off the boot when doing final tightening.

Sat Aug 04, 2018 1:52 pm

EVfun,
I'd just jack up the car on the leaking side and wait a bit. Put a jack stand under that side.
Yea you're gonna loose a bit of gear lube that stays in the offending boot. But not much.

If you put your floor jack under the shock mount. It should lift the axle high enough to get the new (defective) boot off and the new (non-defective) one on.

FWIW, I apply a small bead of RTV to the sealing surface where the screws pass through the boot to seal the boot.

Don't bother sucking gear lube out of the transaxle. It's not worth the headache.

Good Luck.

Fri Nov 08, 2024 3:03 pm

I'm going to need to be able to get under the car on a crawler to get this on.
Raising the car on one side with the erar wheel off is going to be tough. I'd rather raise the back and set it on jack stands then raise the wheel witht he floor jack under the lower shock mount to get the jack it up and raise the axle level. I could raise the other side another notch or two higher on the jack stands to compensate for the weight of the tire that will be hanging lower on that side. Having the car tip over would not be bueno. The extra jack stand height should offset the center of gravity. Tough job without a lift. Nobody left in town to fix it.
What do you all think? At age 65 it's hard to just get up off the floor. On a 1 to 10 how would this rank for an intermediate mechanic with plenty of tools for this? Thanks

Fri Nov 08, 2024 3:22 pm

Place the floor jack under the shock tower as noted above. Also place a jack stand under the torsion bar housing, gotta be safe!
The car won't tip over! :wink:

You want the axle housing (tube) level to get the boot installed.

Changing the axle boots is about a 2-3 on the difficulty level. You should be fine.

Clock the seem in the 2 or 10 o'clock position. So it won't flex open when the axle is fully extended or or compressed.

I turn 65 tomorrow and this task is quite easy to accomplish in a day if you take your time and work carefully.

Fri Nov 08, 2024 3:38 pm

67rustavenger wrote: I turn 65 tomorrow and this task is quite easy to accomplish in a day if you take your time and work carefully.
Happy Berfday! You got 6 years on me and yer gettin' more done than I am 8)

Fri Nov 08, 2024 5:55 pm

[quote="Changing the axle boots is about a 2-3 on the difficulty level. You should be fine..[/quote]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. It helps and is motivating. I'm thinking of placing jack stands on both sides to get the rear up then jacking up the axle so it is level. Stretching my arms all the way jn there is going to be tough. The back will give out before all the bolts are put through the boot. If I could use a floor creeper and slide under the car that might easier but I don't know.

I also just saw a video that if you place a bolt between the spring plate and the torsion housing it will lock the wheels into level position so they don't drop when the car is jacked up. That might be worth a try?

I am seeking the path of least resistance. It is a left side boot so the clutch cable and others are in the way as well.

Fri Nov 08, 2024 6:47 pm

ManyVDubs wrote: I'm thinking of placing jack stands on both sides to get the rear up then jacking up the axle so it is level.
This can be problematic and hazardous, be very cautious; what will happen is, you will have the rear end of the car perched on jack stands, then you would be tempted to jack under the drum/rotor to lift the axle higher.

The problem is, the spring (suspension) will quickly resist and the axle will go up only a small amount before the whole chassis lifts and that side of the car leaves the jack stand...this is where it can get dangerous, you don't want to angle the vehicle upward while the other side is still on a stand, you run the risk of it sliding off and crashing to the ground.

Your best bet is - as you said - place a bolt head between the lower hardstop and the spring plate to hold it up, BEFORE you ever jack anything. Then, use caution while you're working and keep your fingers out of pinch points between the axle tube and frame.

By the way, after experiencing the early failure of Febi (German) boots, I tried the EMPI black silicone ones, because many people here have had great, lasting success with them. I like them a lot, they came with really nice hardware, and went on very nicely and easily with a good wrap-around fit, no hassle at all. I haven't run them yet, but they're holding oil.

Fri Nov 08, 2024 7:48 pm

Busstom wrote:
This can be problematic and hazardous, be very cautious;

The problem is, the spring (suspension) will quickly resist and the axle will go up
By the way, after experiencing the early failure of Febi (German) boots, I tried the EMPI black silicone ones, because many people here have had great, lasting success with them. I like them a lot, they came with really nice hardware, and went on very nicely and easily with a good wrap-around fit, no hassle at all. I haven't run them yet, but they're holding oil.

Thanks for the info! Both make a lot of sense. I actually have the EMPI accordion style boot and not an OEM to install. I can always replace it again if this one fails. No need to take chances. I will lift the car from just one side and then use a single a jackstand on the jacked up side. The boot can probably be reached with the wheel off and safer than getting entire body under the car.
Thanks for your help. Like most things in life, it's easy once you've done it before.

Fri Nov 08, 2024 8:26 pm

67rustavenger wrote: I turn 65 tomorrow

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! Have a fantastic Saturday.

You have motivated me to put the boot on myself. I can do it.

At 65 you get an extra tax break and you have a 90 day window to get a Plan G supplement that requires No Medical Underwriting (they never talk about that part much). Advantage plans won't pay the 20% hospital coinsurance....that's when people lose their Volkswagen's.
Best Wishes

Fri Nov 08, 2024 8:29 pm

You'll be fine, it's okay to go under the car, just be sure to have a stand, AND keep the jack somewhere under there too (somewhere solid). And for extra insurance, grab the spare tire, stack it on the left tire that you remove, and slide them under the pan too, close to the center-rear. Then you're super safe. Hell, you can probably nap under there if you want. Just be smarter than the car and ensure there's no way it can fall on you. You're probably gonna wanna get close to it and get a good eyeball on what's going on when you align and tighten the big inner clamp, heater box will be in the way too.

Sat Nov 09, 2024 9:49 am

67rustavenger wrote: I turn 65 tomorrow and this task is quite easy to accomplish in a day if you take your time and work carefully.

Happy birthday, 67rustavenger!

I just did this 'job' last month on my '67 convertible, and I will be 71 in 3 months. :shock: The actual procedure itself isn't all that difficult, but factoring in the old-age 'handicaps' certainly plays a significant role! As you said, taking your time, and working carefully are the keys.

I've done this job many times over the years on my past 356s and Beetles, without much effort or thought. A bit of a bitch to do - always was - but, damn! At age 70 now, it's a whole different level of "pain in the ass"!

My saving grace this time was that I still have my engine out, (from my engine fire in Aug. 2023, and subsequent repaint, etc.) and the car up on 4 individual locked wheel dollies (no jack-stands) which gave me more working space while lying under there! Everything gets done - eventually, but in s-l-o-w motion compared to when I was younger..