| milfredo |
Fri Nov 21, 2025 5:48 pm |
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sled wrote: that adapter will work perfectly.
do you have the aluminum ferrule that installs onto the chassis tube in front of the transaxle?
Yes I believe I do. Do you have any pictures from the instructions just to be sure I’m doing it correct? |
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| milfredo |
Sat Nov 22, 2025 1:34 am |
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sled wrote: that adapter will work perfectly.
do you have the aluminum ferrule that installs onto the chassis tube in front of the transaxle?
In my last photo above, is the ferrule the part I have in my rear tinware?
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| MTT3107 |
Sat Nov 22, 2025 6:13 am |
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Quote: the CSP bellcrank works even less well than the CB crossbar.
Not my experience, but then again, to each his own.. |
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| sled |
Sat Nov 22, 2025 9:49 am |
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milfredo wrote: sled wrote: that adapter will work perfectly.
do you have the aluminum ferrule that installs onto the chassis tube in front of the transaxle?
In my last photo above, is the ferrule the part I have in my rear tinware?
no, the cable sheath (black outer) needs to run all the way up to the torsion housing, where the cable enters the chassis conduit.
it looks like someone cut your sheath short for some reason.
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| sled |
Sat Nov 22, 2025 9:54 am |
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MTT3107 wrote: Quote: the CSP bellcrank works even less well than the CB crossbar.
Not my experience, but then again, to each his own..
I have used the CSP bell crank myself. It is well built and has a great pedal feel, but it's a matter of geometry, not personal preference. That linkage will not be perfectly synched throughout the throttle range. The synclink is for people wanting perfect sync, and an extremely smooth throttle system with no points of wear. Not to mention incredibly easy adjustment, so much more so than any of the rod style linkages. |
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| milfredo |
Sat Nov 22, 2025 10:54 am |
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sled wrote: milfredo wrote: sled wrote: that adapter will work perfectly.
do you have the aluminum ferrule that installs onto the chassis tube in front of the transaxle?
In my last photo above, is the ferrule the part I have in my rear tinware?
no, the cable sheath (black outer) needs to run all the way up to the torsion housing, where the cable enters the chassis conduit.
it looks like someone cut your sheath short for some reason.
The sheath goes all the way back to the cable tube behind the engine. I’ve pulled it through to make fitting engine a little simpler. I had to drill the ferrule out to 10mm to fit on the tube but it’s lovely now.
It’s all coming together nicely! |
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| milfredo |
Tue Dec 09, 2025 12:12 am |
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Tidy, simple to adjust and super smooth. The Butty's bits peddle kit makes a log of difference as it has a bearing on the main shaft.
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| sled |
Tue Dec 09, 2025 12:17 am |
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| best linkage money can buy! |
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| 58 Plastic Tub |
Tue Dec 09, 2025 8:57 am |
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sled wrote: The synclink is for people wanting perfect sync, and an extremely smooth throttle system with no points of wear. Not to mention incredibly easy adjustment, so much more so than any of the rod style linkages.
There are a lot of people who have a mental block with SyncLink, which I suspect is because of the cost (or perhaps because of "the look"?).
Nobody can make a functional argument against it. It just works, and keeps working consistently well. |
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| Kafer_Mike |
Tue Dec 09, 2025 11:31 am |
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Great linkage. I have been running a SyncLink for 10+ years and never had to adjust unless I pulled the carbs.
I've not seen a SyncLink with the vertical cable placement. Appears they attach to the air filter base plate. Does Pete now make those for shrouds with heater box tubes or did you modify it? |
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| sled |
Tue Dec 09, 2025 12:17 pm |
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Kafer_Mike wrote: Does Pete now make those for shrouds with heater box tubes?
Yes he does. |
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