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Thu Aug 15, 2019 9:58 pm

I personally like this style of pushrod tube, only issue I have is the goofy little washer they give you for the spring side seal. I use a single valve spring shim instead, covers the entire seal and is a perfect fit!
Wondering if anyone else does this?

Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:04 am

Hello, yea they say the best push rod tubes are the stock ones..

I have run the stock ones in both of my built strokers and in the Bently Manual I think it is they tell you of how long, extended they need to be before inserting and compressing by the heads when building.... Also, best to always use new seals..

But there are a few threads on this topic, for at times there is a call to replace a push rod tube with the engine installed do to some reason.

But in the threads you will find out the best preference or meaning choose by engine bullders for most all the spring loaded push rod tubes leak.

So, in the threads you will find the best one builders have used but it escapes me currently.. But I do like what you said about the ones you found, but make sure I think the best use a silicone rubber O-ring internally, I think, lol... RB

Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:50 am

The spring loaded tubes ALWAYS leaks over time, no matter the brand. And yes, with the cheaper sets you need to add a little yourself to get even a decent result. Stock tubes rarely leaks.
On some engines there is no alternative but to use the spring loaded versions. So you have to live with it.
If you need a quick fix of a bent tube or something like that the spring loaded ones are a nice option. On new engines I do not use them if I can make stock ones work.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:58 am

I would only use them as a "repair". if the head is coming off then I would use stock.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 5:36 am

It's great they work for you. I have rarely had luck with them.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 7:47 am

I have done that using valve spring shims as you show. I have only used stock tubes or JayCee in the last 5 years on my engines though. Just installed another set of JayCee this week. I have never experianced leaks on them. The oldest set from 5 years ago and 30k miles on them still does not leak. I have to warn people though that you should not use so called super cool tins or T3 tins on the cylinders as the tubes will hit and no way to prevent that, it will not allow the PR tube seals to seal, so make sure you check it. You must use stock square plate cylinder tin on most engines when you use them I have found.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 8:46 am

oldschool5er wrote: I have done that using valve spring shims as you show. I have only used stock tubes or JayCee in the last 5 years on my engines though. Just installed another set of JayCee this week. I have never experianced leaks on them. The oldest set from 5 years ago and 30k miles on them still does not leak. I have to warn people though that you should not use so called super cool tins or T3 tins on the cylinders as the tubes will hit and no way to prevent that, it will not allow the PR tube seals to seal, so make sure you check it. You must use stock square plate cylinder tin on most engines when you use them I have found.

You're right about that Oldschool5er I haven't used the type 3 cool tins for a while and they are really close to the tubes. These are original stamped tins so maybe thats why I got lucky on the clearance.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 9:35 am

I use the SCAT tubes after the stainless ones I used before cracked after having the heads off and on a couple of times. On non-race engines I use the EMPI stainless windage tubes and EMPI silicone seals and I haven't had a leak since going to them.

brad

Fri Aug 16, 2019 10:10 am

JayCee tubes that use internal "O" rings are the only spring tubes that DO NOT leak. No matter what you do to the spring tubes pictured above that uses a stock seal, they will leak.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 10:31 am

vwracerdave wrote: JayCee tubes that use internal "O" rings are the only spring tubes that DO NOT leak. No matter what you do to the spring tubes pictured above that uses a stock seal, they will leak.
They leak too over time. CSP, JayCee, JPM you name it. Same problem when the engines cover some miles.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 12:45 pm

funny I dont have leek issues with the scat big mouth tubes leeking .nor the empi big dia springy tubes. I think the issue it the STUPID INSTALLER. I do also make bigger seal back up washers for them and swedge them to the tube so they never come off again.( on the scat big mouth tubes) the scats are soft aluminum so you can swedge them up a bit bigger to snug up to a backup washer.
some of the empi tubes are not round inside....if there not round they need to be machined so they are round.( where the orings ride inside the tube's) you also need to properly oil the orings before assembling with good synthetic oil so it does not cook and the oring's slide for ever as the engine gets wider and smaller. oil the orings and oil good inbetween the orings. ( never use greese it will push out of the way and the orings will then run dry..and die.( you have to be smarter that what your working on,I suppose there is a greese that will work, but...I wouldent do it.greese also attracks and holds shit to eat stuff up.and also seals out oil.)

Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:12 pm

WOW . . Let the spring loaded hate flow through you young Jedi's. LOL
I guess everyone has a preference, I've had good luck with these, they keep going and going.
I can't remember the last time I bought new pushrod tubes.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 3:13 pm

Personally, I’ve never trusted them enough to use them. I used to work at a Buggy shop and I’ll agree that I’ve never seen a set that didn’t leak at some point.
Long strokes and long rods were one situation in which the stock tubes would not work but I believe and I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong, they were introduced to the buggy crowd so, if they hit a rock or a stump and bent the tube, it could be quickly fixed without having to pull the head off and ruining your trip.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 5:49 pm

Any body have any tips for compressing the springs enough to do a good install with them?

Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:08 pm

chrisflstf wrote: Any body have any tips for compressing the springs enough to do a good install with them?

Muscle, or some nylon-lined channel locks for electrical connectors.

Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:54 pm

[quote="chrisflstf"]Any body have any tips for compressing the springs enough to do a good install with them?[/quote ]

A tinny bit of oil on the shaft that the spring rides on to let the seal move a little easier does it for me. And I mean a tinny tinny dab.

Sat Aug 17, 2019 5:22 am

I find it real funny (and sad) that a person is willing to spend more money modifying a cheap part to make it work correctly then spend the extra money on a better quality part that fits and is ready to use.

Sat Aug 17, 2019 6:22 am

vwracerdave wrote: I find it real funny (and sad) that a person is willing to spend more money modifying a cheap part to make it work correctly then spend the extra money on a better quality part that fits and is ready to use.
Because VW people are cheap and their time is free.

I value my time and money and know that buying the "right" part the first time is cheaper than buying it after the the cheap part fails.

Sat Aug 17, 2019 12:23 pm

Funny how some just insist that all spring loaded ones just leak. Full stop. My Jaycee ones haven't leaked a drop. Nada. Nothing. But I guess they all leak.

Sat Aug 17, 2019 2:46 pm

I think its funny how this turned into this style vs that style.
All I asked was did anyone else use a larger washer . . .

FWIT . . . no stock pushrod tube ever leaked oil, never ever ever.
Hahahaha
And I guess no one here has ever modified a part instead of buying a new one . . . JESUS