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Wed Dec 04, 2024 9:19 am

PeteSC wrote: VeloMikey wrote: Hold on fellas! You can have a 6v 200mm flywheel, a 12v 200mm flywheel or a 6v 180mm flywheel. The stater teeth or the transmission year have no bearing on what size the flywheel is. You need to measure the cultch disc or flywheel to be sure.

He posted the photo below of his clutch and flywheel on the previous page. It's a stock 36hp engine, and it sure looks like a 109 tooth flywheel versus a 130 tooth 200mm. I believe 36hp dowel sizes are pretty unique as well which limits what works with that engine without extensive machine work, which is hard to fathom someone taking the time to retrofit a 109 tooth 200mm 1500 type 2/3 for a stock 36hp.

Measuring won't hurt anything, but I'll stick with 180mm as being what he needs.

FYI AA Sells a 12v Porsche 356 flywheel set up for VW clutch with the small dowl holes for a 36hp crank. I am using one on my 60 baja bug with a 36hp engine and 12 volt.

Wed Dec 04, 2024 11:26 am

I just put an AA 356 flywheel on my 36hp build and it had to be machined slightly to work with my crank

Wed Dec 04, 2024 2:17 pm

Okay, my WW shopping list (as you can see getting a non-toothed fan belt as well). It would be great to not have to go through multiple cycles of buy and return. Look right to you?

Thanks!

Part # Description Price Qty. Total Adjust Qty.
111903137D
FAN BELT, 36 h.p. -1600cc, for cars with generator 111903137D
$13.65 1 $13.65

111141001
CLUTCH KIT 180mm. includes pressure plate, disc, and throw out bearing. Fits through 1962 Bus and through 1966 Beetle. 111141001
$159.00 1 $159.00

111141000
CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL PLASTIC, all engines 111141000
$8.60 1 $8.60

113198026
OPERATING SHAFT INSTALLATION KIT, all necessary parts needed to install cross shaft, 1961-1972 (1972 Bug thru # 112 2070 812) Bug, 1959 (1959 Bus, starting at chassis # 469506) -1975 Bus. (See item 113311141) 113198026
$14.11 1 $14.11

111141177A
THROW OUT BEARING RETAINING CLIPS, for all engines through 1970, set of 2 111141177A
$3.01 1 $3.01

113141701C
CLUTCH OPERATING SHAFT, 1961-1970 Bug, 1961-1967 Bus, heavy duty 113141701C
$45.04 1 $45.04

Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:51 pm

Looks good to me. The clutch "kit" should come with the TO Bearing clips.
Call and ask Tony. I guess $3 won't break the bank.

Thu Dec 05, 2024 2:49 pm

VeloMikey wrote: Looks good to me. The clutch "kit" should come with the TO Bearing clips.
Call and ask Tony. I guess $3 won't break the bank.

Thanks for your help!

Thu Dec 05, 2024 6:15 pm

It may come with the alignment tool as well; I have a few at home yet can’t ever recall buying one. I feel like they were included in every “kit” I’ve purchased. I’d echo Mike - call and ask.

Fri Dec 06, 2024 3:05 pm

On a completely different note: I would have never thought that this would appeal to me—

https://mailchi.mp/09b65e98aca9/new-learning-series-tickets-available?e=ca400b6d4b

So what such a two-day workshop entail? Doesn’t seem like they are seeking experienced mechanics. That said, I fear I would simply be dead weight.

Such a fun crossover of my interests.

Fri Dec 06, 2024 3:27 pm

A LeRhone engine? Well, at least you'd have experience with metric tools!

Could be quite worthwhile to take part of the mystery out of an old combustion engine. I can imagine that the LeRhone is many times more complicated than our VW flat-fours, but the principles are similar. Bring along dozens of small containers such as old yogurt cups or tin cans to keep all the fasteners separate. Label them with masking tape and Sharpie.

You could make a small detour to photograph your car (even if it's one of your new ones) at the Historic Village Diner in Red Hook NY-

Fri Dec 06, 2024 4:04 pm

Rome wrote: A LeRhone engine? Well, at least you'd have experience with metric tools!

Could be quite worthwhile to take part of the mystery out of an old combustion engine. I can imagine that the LeRhone is many times more complicated than our VW flat-fours, but the principles are similar. Bring along dozens of small containers such as old yogurt cups or tin cans to keep all the fasteners separate. Label them with masking tape and Sharpie.

You could make a small detour to photograph your car (even if it's one of your new ones) at the Historic Village Diner in Red Hook NY-

Ha, yet another one of my interests! I don’t think I remember that diner— thanks Rome.

Tue Dec 17, 2024 10:54 am

Clutch all but torqued down.

Tue Dec 24, 2024 11:53 am

So, ‘tis the season for car folly!

Got the clutch arm off. The bearing holding the fork gave up its inner seal.
I’ve been trying to get it to come out so that, hopefully, there is clearance to get the fork out. I can move in back and for with hammer blows but that only seems to collapse the bearing— it is very flimsy material. Looks like I am going to have to cut it off somehow.

Why do I think that this is not the proscribed method?

Tue Dec 24, 2024 2:44 pm

From my seat it looks like the only way to get the actuator arm out is extricate that bushing to the interior side of the bellhousing which looks really fiddley.
I'd attack the left arm by snapping it off at the shaft the split and pull the bushing.
Happy Holidays 8)

Wed Dec 25, 2024 7:22 am

kingkarmann wrote: From my seat it looks like the only way to get the actuator arm out is extricate that bushing to the interior side of the bellhousing which looks really fiddley.
I'd attack the left arm by snapping it off at the shaft the split and pull the bushing.
Happy Holidays 8)

Thanks KK!
The actuator arm slides to the right easily, so I think I will not have to ‘snap’ any thing off. Will gnaw at the bushing and see what pulling, pushing, and swearing accomplish.
Festivus for the Rest of Us!

Wed Dec 25, 2024 3:41 pm

Pro Tip: Loosen the set screw on the bushing first.

Sat Dec 28, 2024 3:12 pm

We’d be on our way … if that inner bearing wasn’t so rough:

Gonna find something to pull that out as it is in there for the duration.

Sun Dec 29, 2024 3:33 pm

Sacrifice a socket and bang it out with a hammer?

Sun Dec 29, 2024 4:31 pm

PeteSC wrote: Sacrifice a socket and bang it out with a hammer?

Wish I could! It has to get pulled out.

Sun Dec 29, 2024 6:24 pm

Ah, didn’t realize that’s the starter-side one. Put a nut on the end of a bolt, insert at an angle so the nut grabs the bushing, and pry? Hopefully someone has a trick to share.

Sun Dec 29, 2024 8:51 pm

Geeze! Yall gots no imagination.

Three options.

Find a pilot bearing removal tool
https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-pul...XsQAvD_BwE

Or this one that uses your grease gun to extract the bushing.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-55600-Clutch-Bushing-...&psc=1

This above would probably be the most effective.

Or, find a tap to thread the bushing & use an appropriate size bolt to force it out.

Or, a hammer & chisel to break the bushing apart.

The oil lite bushings are quite brittle & break apart fairly easily.

Mon Dec 30, 2024 8:03 am

Another potential option is to "hydraulic" the bushing from the hole.

1) Slide the shaft out of the damaged bushing.

2) Fill the hole about half full of wheel bearing grease.

3) Slide the shaft back into the hole.

4) Use a hammer and something soft to drive the shaft into the grease filled hole. Do not damage the end of your new shaft.

The hydraulic pressure generated by the grease and hammer should force the bushing from the hole assuming the fit between the shaft and bushing is tight enough.

This was a common practice used for removing drill bushings from blind holes back in my tool making days.

Worth a shot. Good Luck.