TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Jan 02, 2025 9:05 am

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I am going to first try what was suggested in the JBugs video— a modified distributor drive puller. Looks like you just need to grind down the top rounded part on the business end so that it will fit in the space between the bushing and the dead end.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/5717.html

Thu Jan 02, 2025 9:16 am

Dude, it’ll take you longer to modify that tool to work than it would chip that bushing away with a screwdriver & a rock.

Thu Jan 02, 2025 9:20 am

TDCTDI wrote: Dude, it’ll take you longer to modify that tool to work than it would chip that bushing away with a screwdriver & a rock.

My concern is that I bung up the hole so that there is no longer an interference fit.

Thu Jan 02, 2025 10:00 am

As said before, the oilite bushings are quite brittle, you can easily chip it apart without (or barely)marring the aluminum. One or two gouges are not going to alter the bore enough to not be a friction fit.

In fact, if you are that concerned about that, grab a new screwdriver or the non-sharpened edge of an exacto knife & use it to scribe a relief cut in the bushing.

Then you can just hook the inner edge & pull it out.

Thu Jan 02, 2025 10:06 am

TDCTDI wrote: As said before, the oilite bushings are quite brittle, you can easily chip it apart without (or barely)marring the aluminum. One or two gouges are not going to alter the bore enough to not be a friction fit.

In fact, if you are that concerned about that, grab a new screwdriver or the non-sharpened edge of an exacto knife & use it to scribe a relief cut in the bushing.

Then you can just hook the inner edge & pull it out.

Thanks TD!

Wed Feb 12, 2025 1:29 pm

Finally. Virtually had to gnaw it out.

Drove the new one in using the throwout bearing arm.

Seems that I could drive it in even further but I think that is just wear.

A little grease on the inner side of the bushings in order?

Sun Feb 23, 2025 11:55 am

Weather beginning to warm.

Looks like a choice has to be made that, given I would have to remove the engine again to undo, it would be great to get right the first time.

So here are the old and new throwout bearing arms.
Not sure why there are two snap rings and no washer on the new one.

The driver’s side bushing has an asymmetrically placed set screw hole.
Not sure which way to install it.

Option 1:

Option 2:

Mon Feb 24, 2025 7:14 am

Option 1 is your answer. If you went with option two you wouldn't get very far with reassambly to have to worry about removing the engine; I don't believe your clutch arm would go back on properly with the bushing protruding outside of the transmission.

Perhaps someone else more knowledgable than me can chime in, but in the option 1 orientation it appears there's some space between the bushing and where the snap ring would get installed that would call for a washer?

Mon Feb 24, 2025 7:19 am

PeteSC wrote: Option 1 is your answer. If you went with option two you wouldn't get very far with reassambly to have to worry about removing the engine; I don't believe your clutch arm would go back on properly with the bushing protruding outside of the transmission.

Perhaps someone else more knowledgable than me can chime in, but in the option 1 orientation it appears there's some space between the bushing and where the snap ring would get installed that would call for a washer?

Thanks Pete.
The more I thought about it and looked around, this was the option I was leaning towards as well.

Yes, I think there is need for a thrust washer between the snap ring and bushing. I found a video where there wasn’t one and the snap ring was moved out of its groove. Clutch issues ensued.

It seems the mangled washer that was there was not hardened. Any leads where I might get a more appropriate washer?

Mon Feb 24, 2025 7:23 am

Trylon wrote: PeteSC wrote: Option 1 is your answer. If you went with option two you wouldn't get very far with reassambly to have to worry about removing the engine; I don't believe your clutch arm would go back on properly with the bushing protruding outside of the transmission.

Perhaps someone else more knowledgable than me can chime in, but in the option 1 orientation it appears there's some space between the bushing and where the snap ring would get installed that would call for a washer?

Thanks Pete.
The more I thought about it and looked around, this was the option I was leaning towards as well.

Yes, I think there is need for a thrust washer between the snap ring and bushing. I found a video where there wasn’t one and the snap ring was moved out of its groove. Clutch issues ensued.

It seems the mangled washer that was there was not hardened. Any leads where I might get a more appropriate washer?

Well, not to cast doubt on my earlier take....with the bearing orientation in option 2, would the circlip fit snuggly on the second ring against the bushing? Perhaps that is the right way...I'm not sure with the replacement parts. I'd put it this way - you want the bearing installed where you can get the set screw in and a circlip on that will have the fork centered and not allow for lateral movement. Since it is an aftermarket arm perhaps the arm with fit with the bushing protruding.

Mon Feb 24, 2025 7:37 am

Ok....now that I look at this photo, I think my initial take was mistaken. Apologies. Hopefully someone else will jump in here and confirm (where's TDCTDI?).

I looks like the new fork has a longer shaft in addition to the two circlip groves. It might be that the bearing is oriented in the option 2 position (as long as the 2nd circlip groove is tight to the bushing). The protruding bushing wouldn't effect the reattachment of your clutch arm, though you may need to get the curved one to replace your straight one to line the clutch cable routing back up.

Tue Feb 25, 2025 11:36 am

Thanks Pete.
I will test fit and see what happens…

Thu Mar 20, 2025 1:49 pm

So close…

… but it looks like one of those metal loop puzzles without a solution.

Fri Mar 21, 2025 5:52 am

Yeah, those clips can be a hassle. Snap ring pliers to spread the clip out can help. As you have it oriented now, slide the bearing over to the right as far as it'll go. Use the pliers to spread the clip on the left so that the straight part of the clip is pulled outward, then pull the bearing outward to meet the clip end. Push the bearing towards the fork to get it to "click" together.

Fri Mar 21, 2025 5:59 am

PeteSC wrote: Yeah, those clips can be a hassle. Snap ring pliers to spread the clip out can help. As you have it oriented now, slide the bearing over to the right as far as it'll go. Use the pliers to spread the clip on the left so that the straight part of the clip is pulled outward, then pull the bearing outward to meet the clip end. Push the bearing towards the fork to get it to "click" together.

Thanks for the confirmation that that might actually work haha.
It’s you and me Pete!

Fri Mar 21, 2025 8:53 am

Not a very springy spring— more or less had to pry open and squeeze shut but the clips are in there steady and the bearing seems to be held in place and tilt freely.

Let’s call that a win— it is clearly better than it was for sure haha!

So next before we put the engine back in— there is a leak, I think it is transmission fluid. It has stopped since the rear end was raised. Something up around the boots? The area below the driver’s side one is clearly gunked up.

Driver’s side:

Passenger’s side:

Fri Mar 21, 2025 9:50 am

How far down the rabbit hole do you want to venture?

Those leaks may be from the boots, but look to me more likely from the gaskets below the axle plates. The boots are easy enough to replace. The axle plate gaskets are not. Those gaskets serve two functions; sealing the transmission and also acting as shims. The only way to replace them correctly is by removing the tranmission, pulling the axles, and re-installing the gaskets, one at a time as you check to make sure there's no binding (too many will lead to excessive play). See video below, around the 4:45 mark.

https://youtu.be/7Oz45tyEOkI?si=QR6BRzQkoDxk_Ut0&t=287

Fri Mar 21, 2025 10:38 am

PeteSC wrote: How far down the rabbit hole do you want to venture?

Those leaks may be from the boots, but look to me more likely from the gaskets below the axle plates. The boots are easy enough to replace. The axle plate gaskets are not. Those gaskets serve two functions; sealing the transmission and also acting as shims. The only way to replace them correctly is by removing the tranmission, pulling the axles, and re-installing the gaskets, one at a time as you check to make sure there's no binding (too many will lead to excessive play). See video below, around the 4:45 mark.

https://youtu.be/7Oz45tyEOkI?si=QR6BRzQkoDxk_Ut0&t=287

Agggh...No! It's a Volkswagen...it's got to leak somewhere. :lol:

Fri Mar 21, 2025 12:04 pm

PeteSC wrote: How far down the rabbit hole do you want to venture?

Those leaks may be from the boots, but look to me more likely from the gaskets below the axle plates. The boots are easy enough to replace. The axle plate gaskets are not. Those gaskets serve two functions; sealing the transmission and also acting as shims. The only way to replace them correctly is by removing the tranmission, pulling the axles, and re-installing the gaskets, one at a time as you check to make sure there's no binding (too many will lead to excessive play). See video below, around the 4:45 mark.

https://youtu.be/7Oz45tyEOkI?si=QR6BRzQkoDxk_Ut0&t=287

Yes, they are the most likely culprits as the boots were replaced when it was shipped.
The operative word in your description of the process above is “correctly”.
I watched some video and wonder if perhaps this might be done somewhat less correctly with the transmission still in?

Fri Mar 21, 2025 12:31 pm

Perhaps. Your challenges with it still installed would be accurately testing the axle movement for possible binding, and you'd also have to cut the gaskets in order to slip them around the axle, creating possible new leak points in each one and potentially rendering the whole exercise moot.