TheSamba.com :: View topic - Chinese MSD Distributor Tips & Tricks + Budget ignition Demo

Fri Mar 06, 2020 1:42 pm

Glenn wrote: jpaull wrote: Now the subject at hand. MSD is $330, New CDI $250, Coil $90, you can have $700 in this stuff and not everyone can afford that.
I really doubt the person buying a ignition system like this is putting it on a stock engine. So lets assume it will be put on a performance engine.....

I bought mine way before I had anything that could be called performance.
The whole MSD setup ran dutifully on my 1600 for years simply because I had bought it for the future big engine.

Pizza box mount template and Aluminum final mount for a under the seat mounting.

Fri Mar 06, 2020 6:31 pm

we used to put the chrysler set up on everything, datsuns, subys, toys, fords, gm etc. the good thing about them is remove the ballest ressitor and you have a msd. 12 volts= msd. personaly i think thats where msd came from. we were doing before we ever heard of msd ignitions. we were doing it back in the late 70's. as for using the msd style reluctor with the gm pickup...you would have to have one the right size but using the module, i see no issues at all,I was going to get one and put in one of my china dist ( the msd reluctor is just a ford reluctor) if there is a retard or whatever( most all mag pickups have a inhearant retard ) what ever it does it will be consistant so it can be tuned around if you have a clue about seting up a dist curve...witch most "dist gurus" dont have a clue about what a engine needs or wants, just how to apply paint. the best dist in the world wont help squat if it is not doing what the engine needs/wants. and no fit all will fill the bill...but it will have a bill and...oh never mind.

Fri Mar 06, 2020 6:40 pm

Is it a ford duraspark reluctor? looks like one.

Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:01 pm

Except the Chysler ignition wasn't a CDI. It was inductive and not a multi-spark either.

mark tucker wrote: we used to put the chrysler set up on everything, datsuns, subys, toys, fords, gm etc. the good thing about them is remove the ballest ressitor and you have a msd. 12 volts= msd. personaly i think thats where msd came from. we were doing before we ever heard of msd ignitions. we were doing it back in the late 70's. as for using the msd style reluctor with the gm pickup...you would have to have one the right size but using the module, i see no issues at all,I was going to get one and put in one of my china dist ( the msd reluctor is just a ford reluctor) if there is a retard or whatever( most all mag pickups have a inhearant retard ) what ever it does it will be consistant so it can be tuned around if you have a clue about seting up a dist curve...witch most "dist gurus" dont have a clue about what a engine needs or wants, just how to apply paint. the best dist in the world wont help squat if it is not doing what the engine needs/wants. and no fit all will fill the bill...but it will have a bill and...oh never mind.

Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:33 pm

jpaull wrote: ivkings4 wrote: DerrickfromNC1 wrote: I see MSD 6als on Craigslist all the time....how can I tell if it’s an original oldskool model or a new copy?

Search on here or google how to tell the fake/copy msd. They have 2 or 3 things that you would only notice once someone pointed them out. Here is one I searched.

"Just came accross my desk that their are Counterfeit MSD 6AL boxes. The easiest way to tell is all of them have the serial number 682013. Here are some other tell tale signs:

All REAL MSD boxes have torx head screws, the counterfeits have phillips.

All REAL MSD boxes heat fins should measure no more then .150", the counterfeits vary and are larger.

This was old and i'm sure there are more things to look for now.

All REAL MSD boxes on the end the mag input is on the left and tach output is on the right, the counterfeits are reversed.

These are in packaging that look like MSD and it is hard to tell. Please beware of a "DEAL" on these items"

Great points. Also, all the new MSD boxes are digital. Even the genuine MSD digital that costs $250 might have issues, and for this reason is why I mentioned the older analog boxes are a great value. The digiatal boxes are what gave MSD a bad name. All the failers are with the digitals. The older analog 6A, 6AL, etc last forever.

The MSD 6ALN is the one analog Nascar version still sold new today. Or if on a budget, buy used for 120-150.

The Crane HI6N nascar has a bit more power then the MSD6ALN and can drive a more powerfull coil like the LX/PX 92. Also lots of these used for $150. I would trust ANY of these used analog CDI boxes over brand new digital stuff.
Is there a way to test a used MSD box before buying it?

Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:56 pm

DerrickfromNC1 wrote: I see MSD 6als on Craigslist all the time....how can I tell if it’s an original oldskool model or a new copy?

http://thecounterfeitreport.com/product/244/

Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:00 am

No, I don't recommend a 28 thou plug gap. I usually recommend 32 to 35 thou although some run it wider. I do recommend never going less than 25 thou. At less than 25 thou the CDI power supply will reduce its output giving a weaker spark. That's just a peculiarity of this CDI and is a protective feature. Fred

Alstrup wrote: Hehe. Well, there is a little more in it than that, efficiency of the spool for one thing. Capacitor type another. But youre going in the right direction. A pressure chamber REALLY changes the way things work and you will see behaviures you did´nt anticipate. A scope is actually not a bad tool to have. It is sort of the only way to determine the actual strength of the spark, and the length of the spark.
- Sounds like the boy has good analytic capacities.
WRT which system that blows out first there is yet another variable. Spark gap. If you set the gab as per his recommendation 0,028" I believe, then 99 mj will hold its arm at rather high cylinder pressures. But if the gap is opened to just 0,040" or even "worse" 0,045" You will experience that the behaviure changes completely. You will also notice that electrode wear increases, especially with conventional copper core plugs. That´s a problem if you expect 50000 miles out of your plugs. With exotic material tips not so much, but those are harder to come by in non resistor versions.

T

Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:54 am

Just fillted pulstars, getting a massive spark, well I know they cost over $15 each, I prefer to keep stock bosch ignition . I'm running full E85 high in the mountains it was always flaming out especially in cold damp weather, when going on off the gas coasting. It's no longer doing it, and yes the NGKs I removed where almost new I went hotter to ngk 4 heat range helped a bit on longer journeys but on down hill bits still flaming out but not with the Pulstars on full E85 just under the snow line the worst for flaming.out..They are really noticeable at low rpms pulling in high gear, I would never of fitted them to my van if I was using stock 'gas' but E85 just like LPG needs a (25%) more powerful spark upto the 2500rpm especially in the cold and damp hot summer months you can get away with standard plugs but up a single heat range so bosch 8s.
Just remembered I seemed to be getting earlier combustion with the pulstars so pulled the advance back 2 degrees.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 6:42 am

The Pulstars work well as such. They work the best relatively in systems thgat require rewsistor plugs. If you have a regular vintage car type ignition theere are other and cheaper solutions. Sadly they have a reasonable short lifespan and are prone to fail. So always have 1 or 2 extra with you when you go long haul.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 9:40 am

Just don't let your plug wires get wet with those pulstars and hope they don't foul a little or there will be lots of misfires. They are just a simple peaking cap built into a spark plug. Fred
Nitramrebrab72 wrote: Just fillted pulstars, getting a massive spark, well I know they cost over $15 each, I prefer to keep stock bosch ignition . I'm running full E85 high in the mountains it was always flaming out especially in cold damp weather, when going on off the gas coasting. It's no longer doing it, and yes the NGKs I removed where almost new I went hotter to ngk 4 heat range helped a bit on longer journeys but on down hill bits still flaming out but not with the Pulstars on full E85 just under the snow line the worst for flaming.out..They are really noticeable at low rpms pulling in high gear, I would never of fitted them to my van if I was using stock 'gas' but E85 just like LPG needs a (25%) more powerful spark upto the 2500rpm especially in the cold and damp hot summer months you can get away with standard plugs but up a single heat range so bosch 8s.
Just remembered I seemed to be getting earlier combustion with the pulstars so pulled the advance back 2 degrees.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 10:02 am

Fred, You could sell ice to an Eskimo! And your talent in diversion/deception is un-matched.

I have noticed a pattern. Anytime a CDI box other then yours is talked about on thesamba, you inact the Winterburn 3-Step process:

1. First you place doubt in the CDI products claims, and features.
2. Next, you engage in deep electrical theory to discredit the product, and to show how smart you are thereby eliminating anyone that can argue with you and at the same time seemingly giving yourself further credit. Lots of Smoke and Mirrors.
3. Last step is you leave the breadcrumb trail of features that can only lead to your CDI box.

You have "bullied" your way through multiple CDI box reviews, and anytime anyone considers any other box you enact the above steps. This is unfair to the community, for one, you have the most expensive CDI with the least output.

For the few who might be reading this, remember this example below. The actual Spark output of CDI boxes are measured in Millijoules. Fred does not advertise the Spark output on his website, because if he did, 2 things would happen:

1. The output would be so low it would not compare to other boxes, and nobody would buy it. (If they cared about output more then looks)
2. If he measured the output that he estimated (only after asking directly here on the samba) at 99MJ, it could be false advertising as it could be questions by many as impossible.

Here is why:

All CDI boxes have a ratio of output vs input. Some can fudge a number a little, but not a lot. There is no "Free Energy" as even Fred states on his website. So unless his box comes with a solar panel, its impossible to maintain output at the low input consumption that IS quoted on his site as .375 amps per 1,000 rpms. Based upon this, I venture to guess the Winterburn actual output is closer to 50MJ
Which is not flattering, and of course If I was him I wouldn't want anyone to know this fact either.

This thread topic I have posted is to help VW guys on a budget get the most bang for their buck. Not only that, its to do it reliably. I show how to get double the output, for half the cost of yours.

Now I have listened to your criticism and ideas, and I don't agree, again. Its time to move on to some budget VW Hot-rodding, so you can take your overpriced cdi box with half the output, and exit this topic stage to the right.

Fred Winterburn wrote: Yep, build that pressure chamber and then scope your Crane so you are looking at a single spark not the entire series. There is a reason you could be mistaken into thinking a CDI needs a big fat red wire to be powerful. It's because some like the MSD 6A charge the small 1µF capacitor in one half cycle through the large power supply transformer. The fat red wire is from the battery right to the collectors of a pair of hefty power transistors. The wire is big because a large current is flowing through it intermittently. Mine and many others use hundreds or thousands of cycles at high frequency to charge the discharge capacitor. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but overall the high frequency oscillator design works better. I won't go into all of the pros and cons here. I put 16 gauge wires on my unit but quite frankly in CDI mode it would work just as well with 22 gauge wire. The wire gauge has to be larger if the switch is selected to STD (kettering mode). If you really want to test a CDI other than mine with two distinct sparks coming at close intervals (less than 400µS apart), check out the Classic Retrofits CDI made in the UK. It has been proven to make more HP than the Bosch CDI it replaces and it does so regulated to 300V rather than the Bosch's 400-450V. That CDI is not a high energy CDI, it is just a very smart one that works. Don't choke when you see the price. Fred EDIT: see the classic retrofit here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=K65slwl__dk

jpaull wrote: Hey Fred!

Thanks for the kind words, and while we don't agree much, your input is valued and welcomed.

My next project will be a pressure chamber. I can turn up the psi till the spark goes "poof" and disappears under pressure. Which ignition do you think will go "poof" and disappear first? Or do you have another reason why things cant be proven and you need a scope to verify something? I'm pretty sure I can find a Scope at a thrift store in the electronics section, they are right next to the cassette players and VHS stuff nobody wants :lol: .

Separating sparks is also a moot point. Now your stating a single spark is more important then multiple sparks, which is like arguing religion, and pointing towards your CDI as you claim the long duration is more important then shorter/stronger/multiple sparks. This is also the only thing you can do, as your box does not have the power supply to support higher output coils, and you would have to redesign the whole thing in order to do that. Then, you couldn't offer it to points only guys, and your not gonna change your zillion year legacy of the same product.

My demo I just built, is not to separate ignitions that are close, its a "No-shit, this one is 10X better its so obvious" way of demonstrating.

My 7 year old who has been following along, was comparing characteristics of ignition components and came up with a interesting comparison. We were talking about the pressure chamber, and which one he thought would go "poof" and disappear under pressure first. Comparing ignitions with CDI box based ignitions, and He said we should get ahold of one of yours, as it should be the first one to go poof under pressure. I asked why, and he said:

"it looks like it has only a 14awg power supply wire, and rated at 99MJ of output, only consuming .375 Amps per 1,000 rpms its impossible to have the output of any of the others".

This is what I get for having 3 spreadsheets open at once, and just wiring up different gauge wire and explaining why and what to him. Kids soak up anything when they have octane in their genes!

He also just had the lesson in fuel, where I couldn't get the full horsepower out of my car, as it had the original 1/4 fuel line designed for the 40hp engine. No matter how "efficient" my engine is, it requires more fuel to make more power. I had to upgrade the line in order to flow more fuel, same as ignition boxes at some point need to flow more power if they are going to deliver higher level of spark. In his 7 year old brain, he connected that lesson straight over to electrical output vs input.

At this point, whenever Fred gets technical, im just gonna hand the keyboard over to my 7 year old :D

Fred Winterburn wrote: Nice machine and nice video demonstration. However, to really see how the spark is, it should be scoped. If the Crane CDI is producing sparks at 1mS intervals like the MSD, visually one can't see the characteristics of a single spark. What one is seeing (and hearing) is the combination of several small, short duration sparks. It will make it seem more powerful than it really is given the time lag between each spark. Eyes and ears can only go so far. The analogue MSD for example, will make a squeaking noise due to the long 1mS spacing between the short (40µS) sparks, yet the spark will appear to be one spark despite the long quiescent interval between individual spark events. 1mS is too long an interval to make power by the way. The secondary side should be scoped and the waveform interpreted correctly to have a better idea of how effective it really is and its potential limitations (with regard to firing lean mixtures for example). Fred
EDIT: At approximately the 47 second mark of the video, look at the lower right hand spark plug. You will see the spark appears to fire to one ground electrode on the multi-electrode plug and then wrap itself to the adjacent ground electrode. This is not the same spark but the next in the series or 3rd and 4th in the series doing so. What you can't see, is the long interval between sparks which our senses lump together as one. At anything above idle speed, that long interval equates to many crankshaft degrees where there is actually no spark.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 10:03 am

[quote="Fred Winterburn"]Except the Chysler ignition wasn't a CDI. It was inductive and not a multi-spark either.

you might want to get one and put 12 volts to it.....but Im no exspurt, and have no way to count the sparks, just compared them 1, with the old msd display machine, there was no visual differance, and 2 on the track back to back runs in the low 6's (1/8th) mild street small block full exhaust. 2x4 tunnel ram 13.8 cr. at the proper oe voltage it was better than points but no where neer a msd spark.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 10:32 am

mark tucker wrote: wow it seems some people dont know squat about dist curves and addvance mechanisms...oh well some things cant be fixed. but these dist can be by somebody that knows what there doing. some are fine but even the fine ones can be better with some work by somebody that knows what there doing. good rite up PJ.!! I have at least 2 of these and 1 magnaspork. the 2 "samd dist" are massivily different..the somebody that knows what there looking at and working on. the magna spork was probably the best built of this type dist Ive found.but it too has some......things with it, but for the guy thats droping in the best dist he can find under $500 it's the one to go with over any dist Ive seen for the vw.including the 010...I would go with the china speed masters/procomp over one of those eazely. I bought my msd copies for about $30 new each...with free shipping. but they should be puled appart & inspected,cleaned etc. always check the reluctor run out and correct if needed. eazely done on a small lathe. some of the addvance weights need bushings some dont... yes the drive dog needs either changed or reamed bigger so it floats on the shaft as vw does. it's been a few years since I reworked thel all at the same time, I dont remember all the stuff about them.but hands down I would do those over a 010 all day long or a $10 09 with petronix and recurved. the issue with the vw dist is recurving. and cost. the msd copies are cheep, work great, and oh so fast and eazy to recurve with almost no tools and no tearing appart the dist. there are also charts that show how to get what curve you want. linner or not. all done by removing the cap&rotor. the addvance limit bushing is a little harder, but not bad at all, eazer when you remove the dist from car, but depending on the car..not really hard at all. unless you have the baja style header witch can be a pain to work around. but with the vw being a dog drive,,,, removing is eazy and not much if any timing change if you do it right.
keep up the good work Jpaul!!

Mark here gave me some ideas, and some things to check on this distributor to make sure its good to go. I have to give credit to him for thinking outside the box. (PM'd me with lots of help). These MSD style distributors are very simple, and as long as it doesn't break in half they just keep working reliably.

I recurved it with leftover MSD parts, and of course cleaned, checked, set air gap, VW drive dog, and it has all the same exact dimensions as the MSD so the Chevy rotors and ford caps fit perfect. Anyone can have a reliable mag pickup style distributor, reliable analog CDI with lots power, and a more powerful coil to match for $280, which is less then some pay for a "vintage" CDI alone.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 10:40 am

AppleGreen,

With regard to testing a MSD CDI box before buying, That's a tough one. Buying online you have the advantage of seeing the seller feedback and clear history, and ebay/amazons return policy.

In person like at a swap meet its gonna be pretty hard. You need a coil and a battery and a few other things. Here is a example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ceprynzzQs

Sat Mar 07, 2020 11:30 am

So, I'm a manipulating bully then eh? Shrug, Fred

jpaull wrote: Fred, You could sell ice to an Eskimo! And your talent in diversion/deception is un-matched.

I have noticed a pattern. Anytime a CDI box other then yours is talked about on thesamba, you inact the Winterburn 3-Step process:

1. First you place doubt in the CDI products claims, and features.
2. Next, you engage in deep electrical theory to discredit the product, and to show how smart you are thereby eliminating anyone that can argue with you and at the same time seemingly giving yourself further credit. Lots of Smoke and Mirrors.
3. Last step is you leave the breadcrumb trail of features that can only lead to your CDI box.

You have "bullied" your way through multiple CDI box reviews, and anytime anyone considers any other box you enact the above steps. This is unfair to the community, for one, you have the most expensive CDI with the least output.

For the few who might be reading this, remember this example below. The actual Spark output of CDI boxes are measured in Millijoules. Fred does not advertise the Spark output on his website, because if he did, 2 things would happen:

1. The output would be so low it would not compare to other boxes, and nobody would buy it. (If they cared about output more then looks)
2. If he measured the output that he estimated (only after asking directly here on the samba) at 99MJ, it could be false advertising as it could be questions by many as impossible.

Here is why:

All CDI boxes have a ratio of output vs input. Some can fudge a number a little, but not a lot. There is no "Free Energy" as even Fred states on his website. So unless his box comes with a solar panel, its impossible to maintain output at the low input consumption that IS quoted on his site as .375 amps per 1,000 rpms. Based upon this, I venture to guess the Winterburn actual output is closer to 50MJ
Which is not flattering, and of course If I was him I wouldn't want anyone to know this fact either.

This thread topic I have posted is to help VW guys on a budget get the most bang for their buck. Not only that, its to do it reliably. I show how to get double the output, for half the cost of yours.

Now I have listened to your criticism and ideas, and I don't agree, again. Its time to move on to some budget VW Hot-rodding, so you can take your overpriced cdi box with half the output, and exit this topic stage to the right.

Fred Winterburn wrote: Yep, build that pressure chamber and then scope your Crane so you are looking at a single spark not the entire series. There is a reason you could be mistaken into thinking a CDI needs a big fat red wire to be powerful. It's because some like the MSD 6A charge the small 1µF capacitor in one half cycle through the large power supply transformer. The fat red wire is from the battery right to the collectors of a pair of hefty power transistors. The wire is big because a large current is flowing through it intermittently. Mine and many others use hundreds or thousands of cycles at high frequency to charge the discharge capacitor. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but overall the high frequency oscillator design works better. I won't go into all of the pros and cons here. I put 16 gauge wires on my unit but quite frankly in CDI mode it would work just as well with 22 gauge wire. The wire gauge has to be larger if the switch is selected to STD (kettering mode). If you really want to test a CDI other than mine with two distinct sparks coming at close intervals (less than 400µS apart), check out the Classic Retrofits CDI made in the UK. It has been proven to make more HP than the Bosch CDI it replaces and it does so regulated to 300V rather than the Bosch's 400-450V. That CDI is not a high energy CDI, it is just a very smart one that works. Don't choke when you see the price. Fred EDIT: see the classic retrofit here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=K65slwl__dk

jpaull wrote: Hey Fred!

Thanks for the kind words, and while we don't agree much, your input is valued and welcomed.

My next project will be a pressure chamber. I can turn up the psi till the spark goes "poof" and disappears under pressure. Which ignition do you think will go "poof" and disappear first? Or do you have another reason why things cant be proven and you need a scope to verify something? I'm pretty sure I can find a Scope at a thrift store in the electronics section, they are right next to the cassette players and VHS stuff nobody wants :lol: .

Separating sparks is also a moot point. Now your stating a single spark is more important then multiple sparks, which is like arguing religion, and pointing towards your CDI as you claim the long duration is more important then shorter/stronger/multiple sparks. This is also the only thing you can do, as your box does not have the power supply to support higher output coils, and you would have to redesign the whole thing in order to do that. Then, you couldn't offer it to points only guys, and your not gonna change your zillion year legacy of the same product.

My demo I just built, is not to separate ignitions that are close, its a "No-shit, this one is 10X better its so obvious" way of demonstrating.

My 7 year old who has been following along, was comparing characteristics of ignition components and came up with a interesting comparison. We were talking about the pressure chamber, and which one he thought would go "poof" and disappear under pressure first. Comparing ignitions with CDI box based ignitions, and He said we should get ahold of one of yours, as it should be the first one to go poof under pressure. I asked why, and he said:

"it looks like it has only a 14awg power supply wire, and rated at 99MJ of output, only consuming .375 Amps per 1,000 rpms its impossible to have the output of any of the others".

This is what I get for having 3 spreadsheets open at once, and just wiring up different gauge wire and explaining why and what to him. Kids soak up anything when they have octane in their genes!

He also just had the lesson in fuel, where I couldn't get the full horsepower out of my car, as it had the original 1/4 fuel line designed for the 40hp engine. No matter how "efficient" my engine is, it requires more fuel to make more power. I had to upgrade the line in order to flow more fuel, same as ignition boxes at some point need to flow more power if they are going to deliver higher level of spark. In his 7 year old brain, he connected that lesson straight over to electrical output vs input.

At this point, whenever Fred gets technical, im just gonna hand the keyboard over to my 7 year old :D

Fred Winterburn wrote: Nice machine and nice video demonstration. However, to really see how the spark is, it should be scoped. If the Crane CDI is producing sparks at 1mS intervals like the MSD, visually one can't see the characteristics of a single spark. What one is seeing (and hearing) is the combination of several small, short duration sparks. It will make it seem more powerful than it really is given the time lag between each spark. Eyes and ears can only go so far. The analogue MSD for example, will make a squeaking noise due to the long 1mS spacing between the short (40µS) sparks, yet the spark will appear to be one spark despite the long quiescent interval between individual spark events. 1mS is too long an interval to make power by the way. The secondary side should be scoped and the waveform interpreted correctly to have a better idea of how effective it really is and its potential limitations (with regard to firing lean mixtures for example). Fred
EDIT: At approximately the 47 second mark of the video, look at the lower right hand spark plug. You will see the spark appears to fire to one ground electrode on the multi-electrode plug and then wrap itself to the adjacent ground electrode. This is not the same spark but the next in the series or 3rd and 4th in the series doing so. What you can't see, is the long interval between sparks which our senses lump together as one. At anything above idle speed, that long interval equates to many crankshaft degrees where there is actually no spark.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 12:55 pm

More is better, we been through that.
Turn it up till it breaks per-maturely then back off 20%
Scientific method.
Is his goal to ignite the fuel mixture? or to erode the spark plugs as fast as possible?
go for it.
I am sure much will be learned in any case.

Sat Mar 07, 2020 1:10 pm

I think Jeff is taking Fred’s comments more personally than need be. Nothing wrong with using cheap parts to make a big spark. Bigger is better, up to a point. Then you will be melting electrodes. You cant learn without trying and failure is a big teacher. Fred’s box price wise represents to me, reliability and a sound design. Everybody has their own preferences. Nothing is the “best”. Its all good info from all parties

Sat Mar 07, 2020 1:15 pm

Exactly. He's going the RIGHT direction for high power CDI, that's for sure.
Although is that the right direction?
it can be

you gonna RUN SOME NITRO?

Sat Mar 07, 2020 1:48 pm

Floating VW wrote: jpaull wrote: Just to see a comparison for fun, (and for my 7 year old to understand how things work) I made up this demo setup that holds 2 distributors side by side, 2 electric motors with old distributor drives cut in half, some old gate metal and a few wires/paint/plugs and its ready to go.
Dude, your son is going to have a PROFOUND advantage over the other kids when he grows up. While his friends are busy trying to figure out the best apps (and porn) to download on their cell phones, he's going to be in the garage working out the kinks in the flux capacitor he just invented.

I just hope he uses his powers for good, not evil.

Good job, man.

That's part of the fun of Hot-rodding, the kids can learn and take part. We don't allow video games in our house, and no cable tv. He also learns tricks of smart building on a budget, and testing vs taking peoples word for what is/is not good. :D

Sat Mar 07, 2020 2:29 pm

jpaull wrote: AppleGreen,

With regard to testing a MSD CDI box before buying, That's a tough one. Buying online you have the advantage of seeing the seller feedback and clear history, and ebay/amazons return policy.

In person like at a swap meet its gonna be pretty hard. You need a coil and a battery and a few other things. Here is a example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ceprynzzQs
I didn't think to check youtube. I see a lot of those MSD boxes at the swap meets. Thanks for the info.