TheSamba.com :: View topic - Lets get exact thickness of valve cover gaskets

Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:43 am

I know we this has been a long time topic. When I bought my first bug new from the factory never a problem with leaks. What were they using??? Don't remember any adhesive.

But what about exact thickness

I have 10 cork all bought from the same vender.

They average between .151 to .155 Inch 3.82 to 3.94 mm

Eyeballing it --- Hmmmm 5/32 inch

Is that typical ?

Are there thicker versions?

Can you use two to make up the difference. !

Thickness may be the main issue beside, if hard or soft and maybe adhesive is not needed if thickness is the answer

Are T-1 and T-2 different thicknesses??

Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:45 am

Forgot to add in T-4 to ( Are T-1 and T-2 different thicknesses )??

Sat Jul 25, 2020 10:06 am

Generally there should be enough pressure from the bail springs on the rocker covers ro make up for any difference in thickness.
If it is leaking because of a slightly thin gasket, you have something else wrong .

New springs may help.

Alternatively -

I have had a lot of issues with the gaskets buckling as they go in, used gasket sealant to stop them buckling by sticking them down.

Then I realised that the real problem was the gaskets are slightly too wide.

So I trim about 1/16 inch off each end of the gasket with a pair of scissors. Then they lie flat and still cover the mating surface on the head.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 11:32 am

I would think, max thickness would be the goal. As for the springs, on my T-4 I cannot put them on by hand, I have to use a large screw driver as a pry bar.

I have been using Permatex sealant that does not get hard. Maybe an issue?

Sat Jul 25, 2020 1:03 pm

I use 3M spray adhesive to glue them to the valve cover. Helps with install (no movement) and they never leak for me.

Spray one side of gasket, let it get sticky and then place on the VC. Let dry for 10-15 minutes and install...none on the surface against the head

Sat Jul 25, 2020 1:46 pm

I do something like that, I use rubber cement on the valve cover and the gasket. Let dry, stick, stays in place for installation. I use Curil K2 between the gasket and the head. Sometimes, it actually works!

Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:08 pm

Glue it to the valve cover with some kind of sealant.
It's hard to get an "exact thickness" of cork, kinda ironic question.
If it shrunk too far spritz some water on it and it might grow back.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:50 pm

Ok TXOVEL I know the 3M Spray, good idea .

Freebug what is Curil K2 ??

Modok, water spray, Hmmm and it may grow back. When I talk to you have to expect the unexpected. Very refreshing!! Ha.

I was thinking a rubber hose the size of the cork gasket , that is attached to a pressure regulator that when the pressure drops, it signals the air compressor to start and stop at the ideal pressure.

Not a good Idea, if I was going to use a compressor I could have A/C instead and not sweat my ass off in NY heat.

That was a joke.

Seriously I am thinking the permertex is just not cutting it, i only used it on the VC side Some stuff on the head side I am open to,no problem

Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:58 pm

I checked the Curil K2 is non hardening like the the permatex

Both go to 400c

Which would you guys recommend.

Hmmm If it wasn't a boxer engine we would not have this problem. Didn't Porsche think about leaks when he designed the engine. Don't take me serious.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 3:09 pm

I'd use rtv silicone, or "high tack"

In the old days most guys used gorilla snot (3m trim adhesive), and you still could I spose, but the are a lot of other products now that would work just as well and much easier to deal with.

Cork does shrink, sometimes I have to use 30-40 years old gasket sets for some rare engine. But so does rubber. a 40+ year old rubber gasket would be completely useless, at least cork you can deal with it.
Example:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728027&highlight=gasket+shrunk+nos

Sat Jul 25, 2020 3:34 pm

If you go with gorilla snot, 3M does make it in black...

I like the spray because it’s easy to apply and when you change the gasket in the future it’s much easier to clean. Gorilla snot can be a pain to remove.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 4:04 pm

I seem to recall you discussing rocker cover issues more than once before. I'll add my two type 4 specific tips (probably again):

*Try putting the cover on the head without a gasket first and confirm it doesn't rock, if it's warped it'll never seal well, type 4 covers are easy to bend.
*The logo near the middle of the cover (tiny 1/4" dia. inspection stamp) has to be upside down, yes the covers look symmetrical, but the lips on the edge sometimes touch parts of the head that prevent a tight seal.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 5:49 pm

Busdaddy, I do remember your posting that info. Is the logo visible on the outside of the valve cover??

Ok Silicone RTV and the 3M Spray glue.

You guys got me with Gorilla Snot. What is it !!

In the elevator industry we had a mixture of shredded asbestos with a grease mixture to make seals.

It was called Monkey Shit. The guys that hand mixed it are most likely dead or wish they were.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 6:13 pm

nextgen wrote: Is the logo visible on the outside of the valve cover??
Sometimes, it depends on where you live and the level of rust on the cover, the inner side usually shows a raised inverse where it was stamped if you can't find it on the outside.

Sat Jul 25, 2020 6:45 pm

Gorilla Snot is yellow 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive...if you ever use it you’ll understand the name

Sat Jul 25, 2020 8:09 pm

busdaddy wrote: nextgen wrote: Is the logo visible on the outside of the valve cover??
Sometimes, it depends on where you live and the level of rust on the cover, the inner side usually shows a raised inverse where it was stamped if you can't find it on the outside.

Tried to get a decent shot of my type 4 covers but couldn’t. It looks like the one you find on engine tin. If you lying on your stomach looking at the cover. The VW logo should look upside down. Similar to the picture. Hope that helps. I don’t use adhesive sealant on the type 4 covers. On the type 1 covers I do use a little bit of Gasgacinch (Cover side only) since the covers don’t have the tabs, it’s easy to clean should you have to replace a gasket on a road trip. Some people also like Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound. As said, if your covers are wonky gaskets probably not going to solve your issues but if they just a bit off. Just maybe those silicone gaskets sold by various vendors could help.

Sun Jul 26, 2020 1:50 am

I wouldn't go too crazy in the adhesive you use, remember, you're going to have to scrape it off someday.

I forgot to mention, I sand down the surface of the cover where the gasket sits, with 240 or so, to give the contact cement something to grab on to.

Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:44 am

Have soaked mine in water to swell them up. Then a light smear of grease on the valve cover to hold in place and slight smear of grease on the gasket. Install, make sure your bales are tight. No leaks and reusable.

Sun Jul 26, 2020 10:16 am

You guys got me out side on stomach looking for the logo. Can't find it on either, I guess the stamping did not have enough pressure.

BUT-- they are not leaking and a leak would be visible due to the fact my headers on the T-4 engine is directly under the opening in valve cover.

Next time I do a valve adj. I for sure will check for the logo.

Hay guys thanks.

So again we never got the answer, I will put one of my cork in water to see how much of a difference that will make.

Well if you guys are doing the in the water thing, then I guess you would go for thicker gaskets.

I guess I have to assume with all of you out there if you know you would tell me.

Mon Jul 27, 2020 7:49 am

I did the water test by putting one of my gaskets in water for 24 hours.

Then used a digital vernier gauge to check for expansion.

Nope absolutely no difference???