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Fri Feb 09, 2024 11:44 pm

MuzzcoVW wrote: If re using the factory cam (which i do not recommend) make sure to use proper followers! The Rio lifters from CB Performance or rock auto work great, of Febi. Do NOT use scat on a stock cam

Why don’t you recommend reusing the factory cam?

Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:09 am

dopeboat wrote: MuzzcoVW wrote: If re using the factory cam (which i do not recommend) make sure to use proper followers! The Rio lifters from CB Performance or rock auto work great, of Febi. Do NOT use scat on a stock cam

Why don’t you recommend reusing the factory cam? Because if it has over 75k miles it's likely near the end of it's lifespan, and not east to change if it becomes an issue down the road. Also IMO there's far better cams to use in these engines for little money. I've run a CB 2280 in several fuel injection engines now and the difference is noticeable. My car is so much more snappy if I have to take the highway and holds 75 mph with ease, VS struggling at times in small hills at that speed stock. It does work beat at 8.2 to 8.4:1 compression, but I'm currently at near stock compression and it works well. Getting rid of the factory dished pistons helps raise it slightly

Sat Feb 10, 2024 10:38 am

MuzzcoVW wrote: APPLEGREENVW wrote: MuzzcoVW wrote: APPLEGREENVW wrote: I don't think the JayCee tube pushrod tubes are worth the $$. They will leak oil also over time. Just my opinion. Stock painted tubes will last. Follow manual instructions on how to install them. If you want to avoid oil leaks,you can modify the case behind the main seal with drains and vent setup.

https://www.v-dubstore.com/
http://carcraftstore.com
2 parts vendors I would recommend checking out. I have used both with good feedback. The FI cases already have the drain mod built in, no need for anything more... except I agree with the windage pushrod tubes. I love the stainless units Yes, the FI cases have the drain already, but not the vent, like the type 4 cases do. Just my opinion. True, fair enough. Personally never had any issues, but maybe larger displacement/higher rpm it would help?
Here a photo of a type 4 2.0L case. It has a drain and vent done by vw. That how vw fixed the oil leak issue.

Sat Feb 10, 2024 12:44 pm

MuzzcoVW wrote: dopeboat wrote: MuzzcoVW wrote: If re using the factory cam (which i do not recommend) make sure to use proper followers! The Rio lifters from CB Performance or rock auto work great, of Febi. Do NOT use scat on a stock cam

Why don’t you recommend reusing the factory cam? Because if it has over 75k miles it's likely near the end of it's lifespan, and not east to change if it becomes an issue down the road. Also IMO there's far better cams to use in these engines for little money. I've run a CB 2280 in several fuel injection engines now and the difference is noticeable. My car is so much more snappy if I have to take the highway and holds 75 mph with ease, VS struggling at times in small hills at that speed stock. It does work beat at 8.2 to 8.4:1 compression, but I'm currently at near stock compression and it works well. Getting rid of the factory dished pistons helps raise it slightly

I would reuse the cam, IF it measured out okay and had no physical damages. A good inspection is all that is needed. Those stock cams are solid!

I use remanufactured VW lifters in my stock rebuilds. I also use reground OG cams, reground OG cranks, and rebuilt OG rods. Typically a little bit cheaper, but they are seasoned parts that still have a shit ton of life left in them!

Jose at DPR in Santa Ana, CA, does all of that in house! Awesome place!

Sat Feb 10, 2024 3:57 pm

Okay a lot of different opinions here. I’m probably going to talk to my local VW shop and see what they suggest as far as the cam goes. This car is unlikely to ever see the freeway again, mostly because I just prefer to drive it on country roads.

I AM partial to OG parts just because I subscribe to the belief that they don’t make metal the way they used to. If someone can point me to a new, affordable cam that isn’t made from Chinese metal, awesome.

I definitely hear the suggestion to go for a resurfaced flywheel, I may see if mine can be resurfaced. It’s my hope that the crank can be re-used, but I’m not necessarily counting on it. I know there are a few schools of thought regarding just how big a difference you can run on a ground crank AND a machined case, even though they may make bearings to fit. What do people think is acceptable?

Sat Feb 10, 2024 4:38 pm

I'll offer a X2 on the OG cam as well as reconditioning the rest of the stuff too, not many aftermarket cams work well with L-jet.

Sat Feb 10, 2024 6:14 pm

busdaddy wrote: I'll offer a X2 on the OG cam as well as reconditioning the rest of the stuff too, not many aftermarket cams work well with L-jet. Correct, hence why I recommend the 2280. Sure the factory cam would be fine IF its ok I'veseen manythat are toast, but there are advantages to the 2280. Another however, if you're not at all concerned with freeway performance, then my recommendation doesn't make as much sense

Sat Feb 10, 2024 7:21 pm

MuzzcoVW wrote: busdaddy wrote: I'll offer a X2 on the OG cam as well as reconditioning the rest of the stuff too, not many aftermarket cams work well with L-jet. Correct, hence why I recommend the 2280. Sure the factory cam would be fine IF its ok I'veseen manythat are toast, but there are advantages to the 2280. Another however, if you're not at all concerned with freeway performance, then my recommendation doesn't make as much sense

What lifters would you run with an otherwise stock motor with the 2280?

Sat Feb 10, 2024 7:34 pm

dopeboat wrote: MuzzcoVW wrote: busdaddy wrote: I'll offer a X2 on the OG cam as well as reconditioning the rest of the stuff too, not many aftermarket cams work well with L-jet. Correct, hence why I recommend the 2280. Sure the factory cam would be fine IF its ok I'veseen manythat are toast, but there are advantages to the 2280. Another however, if you're not at all concerned with freeway performance, then my recommendation doesn't make as much sense

What lifters would you run with an otherwise stock motor with the 2280? The CB 1512 lifters work great, and are inexpensive. You could use their lightweights, but many of us have used the "orange box" Followers made by Rio with great results

Tue Feb 13, 2024 12:23 pm

Put oil in the car and drove it over to the new shop space yesterday. I think she's on her best behavior knowing she's about to get a refresh. I've found a local VW shop to do the machine work, I'll probably start labeling wires, hoses, etc, and pull the engine in the next week or so.

Here's the updated build spec:

Re-Use (all parts clean & inspect):

- Case (expecting line & thrust bore)
- Camshaft & gear (unless kaput, in which case CB 2280)
- Heads (valve job if necessary, re-lap at minimum)
- Crankshaft (re-grind if necessary)
- Crank Gear
- Flywheel (resurface)
- Gland Nut (pending condition of pilot bearing)
- Pushrods
- Rocker Assemblies
- Distributor Drive Gear
- Dowel Pins
- Relief Valves & springs
- Head & Case Studs

Replace:

- Main bearings (Silverline)
- Rods (CB 1253/4)
- Rod Bearings (Kolbenschmidt)
- P&C (Stock 85.5, AA)
- Cam Bearings (Mahle)
- Valve springs (Stock, JBugs)
- Cam Lifters (CB 1512)
- Adjusting screws & nuts
- Clutch disc, bearing, & pressure plate (AA)
- Pushrod Tubes (CB Windage SS)
- Hardware & seals as applicable
- Missing tin as applicable

Tue Feb 13, 2024 2:27 pm

I do like that color! Sharp looking Bug!

-Dan

Fri Feb 23, 2024 9:24 am

Finally tore into the engine last night, and discovered a few ...interesting things. First, the heads are not original. They are AutoLinea GO1's.

I pulled the jugs & pistons, and had a pretty hard time getting the pins out of the pistons. Each one required action with a hammer, it's like the pin hole was slightly peened over at the edge. I believe the P&C are also not original, but I haven't cleaned them up enough yet to see.

The real interesting thing was getting to look into the bottom end through the cylinder holes. It may be too early to say, but I believe the metal in my sump is from the cam. The forward-most lobe on the cam looks very worn. The crank has somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" end play. I was expecting to see bearing material pushed out from the main journals, but so far everything looks pretty tidy. Will know more once I split the case, obviously, at this stage it's just speculation.

I'm most concerned by the fact that it looks like someone may have been in here before me, which suddenly opens up the door for someone to have done half-baked engine work. More to come.

Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:32 am

I'm finding a lot of disapproval regarding the Autolinea G01 heads on the samba and elsewhere, mostly to do with flashing from the casting blocking off cooling passages, and also with the exhaust valve contact patch being notoriously thin against its seat.

SO, I'm considering replacing the heads as a matter of course. It seems like a poor idea to stick an inferior head back on this brand new build. I do want to stay stock regarding displacement and valve size. I'm considering AA, CB, and factory VW heads from the classifieds. There seems to be a litany of info regarding AA vs CB heads when it comes to ported and performance heads, but not much at all regarding stock heads, so I'm looking for any info people can provide on the comparison, especially in relation to factory VW heads. Price-wise, I believe all would shake out to be within $100 of each other, considering I'd have a valve job done on any factory VW heads I'd buy from the classifieds, of which there seems to be a good selection. Essentially, would a factory VW head with a fresh valve job be superior to the AA or CB stock heads?

Sat Feb 24, 2024 11:51 pm

Depends. Which heads are you looking at, exactly?

Sun Feb 25, 2024 9:23 am

VW_Jimbo wrote: Depends. Which heads are you looking at, exactly?

CB 1656 and AA 043 101 355CK

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1656.htm
https://aapistons.com/collections/cylinder-heads-c...ad-35-5x32

Sun Feb 25, 2024 11:54 pm

CB is a good product. But I would choose the proven AA head casting everytime!

Mon Feb 26, 2024 5:34 pm

Well, I split the case tonight and discovered some very interesting things. First of all, peep the video below to see the end play. Brutal. Both cam and main bearings have beaucoup wear on them. Cam is toast. The lifters have these crazy chatter marks on them like there was sand in the oil, and one of the lifters (I forget which one) has the barrel of it worn way down. The #1 main bearing actually cut a relief in the case which is what created the end play. The dowel hole for that bearing is completely egged out, will need to be machined for a larger dowel. Plus, there is a massive ridge (0.050"?) in the case at that bearing seat, where the oil passage is. I know Silverline offers bearings up to 2mm thrust cut and .080 case cut, but I'm curious to hear from people what their opinion is on the real world machinable limits of this case, AND any theories as to what could have been the root cause of this chain reaction.

Feast your eyes on this beautiful carnage.

Sat Mar 02, 2024 7:21 pm

Did you measure the case? Is it the standard bore? If the case cut by someone, they used the wrong thrust bearing. It might be easier to find another case. Good luck.

Sun Mar 03, 2024 8:12 am

APPLEGREENVW wrote: Did you measure the case? Is it the standard bore? If the case cut by someone, they used the wrong thrust bearing. It might be easier to find another case engine. Good luck.

Thanks for your reply! I didn’t measure it, but the bearings are marked standard. I’ve dropped the case at a vw shop “locally” to see about machining it. It’ll definitely need the 2mm thrust cut, I’m just hoping that’s enough. My budget rebuild is suddenly becoming much less budget…

I’ve also ordered stepped dowel pins. I know there’s a lot of opinions about whether or not it’s best to try and remedy the dowel situation or just leave it as is, knowing they’re really just there to locate the bearings, not to hold them in place. I’m still on the fence over whether I’ll use them or not.

Sun Mar 03, 2024 8:24 am

dopeboat wrote: APPLEGREENVW wrote: Did you measure the case? Is it the standard bore? If the case cut by someone, they used the wrong thrust bearing. It might be easier to find another case engine. Good luck.

Thanks for your reply! I didn’t measure it, but the bearings are marked standard. I’ve dropped the case at a vw shop “locally” to see about machining it. It’ll definitely need the 2mm thrust cut, I’m just hoping that’s enough. My budget rebuild is suddenly becoming much less budget…

I’ve also ordered stepped dowel pins. I know there’s a lot of opinions about whether or not it’s best to try and remedy the dowel situation or just leave it as is, knowing they’re really just there to locate the bearings, not to hold them in place. I’m still on the fence over whether I’ll use them or not.
I would use the stepped dowels pin on the thrust bearing. They make 3.5mm thrust bearings.