TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Sep 13, 2024 12:13 pm

I need some help. I had my engine and transmission rebuilt and I just reinstalled them. As I buttoned everything up , tuned the carb, and went to pull out of the garage I realized my clutch was waaay to easy. In neutral it idled fine. I killed the engine, put it in gear, and the starter nudged the car forward. So I know the transmission is good.

Thus Clutch.

I did an adjustment on the wing....nothing. So then I started thinking that in my rush to get her running I'd forgotten to install the throw-out bearing like an idiot. Today I cracked the engine back a few inches and there she sits looking perfect and moving really nicely.

Can someone please help me out?

Is it possible that I have the wrong pressure plate for a 1974?
(I asked the engine builder to install/align it)
Is my throw out not traveling enough?
Did the transmission rebuild use the wrong fork?
I just don't think my bearing is hitting resistance based on how it's moving.

This is a level beyond what I know as a shade tree mechanic and I'm sure I'm missing something basic here.

Stock 1974 Ghia, 1600DP (AH) and Transmission (AN)

Fri Sep 13, 2024 12:35 pm

Have you tried putting it in gear with the engine running and the clutch pushed in? Stock VW clutch pedal pressure is very low.

Fri Sep 13, 2024 12:44 pm

Yes it started the grind. I'm seriously wondering if the wrong clutch is behind the pressure plate. How would I know? How far is a throw out travel? The pics show the pedal fully depressed.

Fri Sep 13, 2024 12:56 pm

Your first picture shows a clutch disc in there....

Fri Sep 13, 2024 12:58 pm

Disc backwards? Flywheel side out?

Fri Sep 13, 2024 1:29 pm

Purchase a clutch pilot tool to align the clutch so you can remove the pressure plate and take a look to see if the clutch plate is installed correctly. Remove the bolts evenly going around in a cross pattern so as to avoid warping the pressure plate, do the same when reinstalling it. Torque the bolts to 18 lb/ft using a little blue removable grade Loctite or just rely on the spring washers, my builder used a dab of orange high temp silicone to ensure they’d stay put.

The pilot bearing inside the gland nut needs some grease and it looks like yours could use some, just a little goes a long way here, you don’t want it all over the clutch as it will get thrown out due to centrifugal force. Your clutch splines on the input shaft are also dry, a very light smear of grease here is needed so the clutch plate can move freely.

Fri Sep 13, 2024 1:43 pm

Thanks all this is super helpful. One thing I noticed - with the pedal all the way down (2x4 holding it in the car) the bearing still has about 1/4" of flange exposed. However if I reach to the arm I can still get it to travel about another 1/2".

Is it possible that the wingnut should tighten with constant engagement? I guess I assumed you set it at the edge of engagement for both pedal and lever. But with this extra top-tension play I have room to engage it about 1/4" while the pedal is at rest.

Current state:
Pedal at rest, Fork/Lever at rest
Pedal full, bearing short of flange end by 1/4"

Correction:
Pedal at rest,Fork/Lever about 1/4" engaged
Pedal full, bearing flush to end of flange

Does that sound right?

Fri Sep 13, 2024 1:48 pm

Yeah - I'm new to this. I just wasn't doing the wingnut properly.
In summary - the adjustment will have the lever engaged somewhat (it will not be at rest).

Sat Sep 14, 2024 5:10 am

PolarBearVW wrote: Yeah - I'm new to this. I just wasn't doing the wingnut properly.
In summary - the adjustment will have the lever engaged somewhat (it will not be at rest).

Nobody is born knowing this stuff.

Sat Sep 14, 2024 7:33 am

PolarBearVW wrote: Yeah - I'm new to this. I just wasn't doing the wingnut properly.
In summary - the adjustment will have the lever engaged somewhat (it will not be at rest).
Good that you found the cause.

Free play is measured at the top of the clutch pedal. Like rayjay stated, folks need to start their learning somewhere, and since you installed the transmission and engine, you're off to a great start.

When I install an engine - and especially if a new disc, new pressure plate, or new throwout bearing - I back off the wingnut adjustment, grease the cable threads, and only after engine is fully installed do I adjust the clutch cable.