RockStock |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 11:07 am |
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Kommercial wrote: Quote: Good spot, John
Repro bead is is 5mm diameter!
Original is 3mm diameter!
Original stuff just dries out and cracks, so seldom survives
That’s an obvious difference. Feels way thinner too…like panel vinyl v seat vinyl
Who can do some decklid beading that is true to original?
Is this 3 or 5mm?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2200324
5mm |
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Huetti_1989 |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:31 pm |
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ddutch wrote: Huetti_1989 wrote:
I also have a big problem with the horizontal fire wall above the engine, klassic fab doesn't have it anymore.
-Christian
Maybe Mark Spicer can help you out. He does make the panel between the engine bay and the cargo floor. I assume the shelf panel above the engine bay has the same rib patern;
https://www.type29.co.uk/product/engine-bay-to-cargo-floor-panel-vin-panel/
Thank you, but now after brexit it's not that easy for me to get parts from uk, also that amazing trips to the volksworldshow like some years ago are not the same sadly, i hope i can get back there one day! So many nice people !!!
-Christian |
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Huetti_1989 |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:32 pm |
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djfordmanjack wrote: I believe Christian is talking about the 'parcel shelf' panel, that he already removed. the lower firewall and engine compartment looks quite ok on his panel.
christian, since the parcel shelf is also a very large panel to ship, and it obviously needs bending and tweaking to install....here is my idea. go ask a local metal shop ( Spengler, Laserschneider, CNC Schlosserei) who can bend/stamp the beads into 1mm sheetmetal on an CNC assisted bench stamp. it should be really easy for such a shop to produce the whole sheet in one piece. it would look just like corrugated roofing tin. you would have to cut/shrink, weld and flatten all of the bead ends yourself. but that is very doable. I also made my own metal die and stamp male/female molds so I can improve the look of the bead ends.
these are just examples to give you an idea (front floors and belly pans).
ddutch wrote: Huetti_1989 wrote:
I also have a big problem with the horizontal fire wall above the engine, klassic fab doesn't have it anymore.
-Christian
Maybe Mark Spicer can help you out. He does make the panel between the engine bay and the cargo floor. I assume the shelf panel above the engine bay has the same rib patern;
https://www.type29.co.uk/product/engine-bay-to-cargo-floor-panel-vin-panel/
Ik, thanks günter,good idea!! i will give it a try when i am there!!
-Christian |
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Huetti_1989 |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:36 pm |
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RockStock wrote: Neat work, Christian
splitface wrote: I have drain holes on lower and upper part of my engine lid but mine is 54 model
they look like original holes and only one hole on driver side of outer skin
NOT sure if this was on 52 , when it was changed - added
took pics of all 4 corners on my 54 lid for your reference
Nice detail on the drain holes
Would be nice to pinpoint the changeover month
j.pickens wrote: I hope you saved the trim strip which was between the hinge and body on the decklid. That is unobtanium, and is worth restoring or making your own. The repro stuff is WAY too thick and has too big a bead diameter.
Good spot, John
Repro bead is is 5mm diameter!
Original is 3mm diameter!
Original stuff just dries out and cracks, so seldom survives
That’s an obvious difference. Feels way thinner too…like panel vinyl v seat vinyl
Who can do some decklid beading that is true to original?
Is that trim strip from fabrik not correct?
Here are some pictures of mine:
Seat leather material looks to big for me also.
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Huetti_1989 |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:43 pm |
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New headache today:i started the work on the battery tray, should be a quick and easy fix, but after removing two layers of repair metal ant the later battery stripe i see the remains of a holder in driver side????
And the crazy thing now, the battery tray and the panel next to it front to the vin looks like one piece, same on the drivers side.
Can anyone confirm that with pictures?
I am thinking hard about make it year correct vs a good later battery scrwing latch from -67?
-Christian
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djfordmanjack |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 1:48 pm |
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yes barndoor is one piece tray right to where it goes up to the VIN. needs to be done exactly that way, imho. |
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sled |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 3:36 pm |
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yes, both starboard (right) and port (left) side battery trays are one piece with the seal channel panel (this is a wolfsburg bus feature). 1950-1952 uses these small little tabs/brackets that the spring hold-down clips attach to for the battery. Also note the divider panel on the port side does not have a drain hole at the forward bottom end of it. Also see how the corner itself where it welds to the mud flap is straight, not curved.
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sled |
Thu Dec 05, 2024 3:40 pm |
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Huetti_1989 wrote:
I am thinking hard about make it year correct vs a good later battery scrwing latch from -67?
-Christian
details are of utmost importance, especially on early buses...this is what sets them apart from later.
I have a 52 deluxe and 52 kombi at my shop right now if you need any other detail references. |
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Huetti_1989 |
Fri Dec 06, 2024 3:05 pm |
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djfordmanjack wrote: yes barndoor is one piece tray right to where it goes up to the VIN. needs to be done exactly that way, imho.
Really? Never seen that bevore! I get a 50-54 "battery tray only" from gerson.
So i take a good look at that!
-Christian |
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Huetti_1989 |
Fri Dec 06, 2024 3:11 pm |
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sled wrote: yes, both starboard (right) and port (left) side battery trays are one piece with the seal channel panel (this is a wolfsburg bus feature). 1950-1952 uses these small little tabs/brackets that the spring hold-down clips attach to for the battery. Also note the divider panel on the port side does not have a drain hole at the forward bottom end of it. Also see how the corner itself where it welds to the mud flap is straight, not
Oh yes! Thanks for the pictures! So i it is right in one piece, of course i must go that way so i carefully take that part out and start to re shape the corner and make the first patch from inside out:
-Christian
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RockStock |
Sat Dec 07, 2024 3:31 am |
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Is that 3.6mm?
Mike’s beading comes with a white plastic piping insert
Decrepit original stuff I have here doesn’t have this piping; it just seems to have a very thin strip of material (twine) in there
So it’s 1) Thinner vinyl 2) No piping as such…just twine |
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RockStock |
Sun Dec 08, 2024 7:03 am |
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Here are some decklid beading detail pictures with thanks to Mark Rafferty
Original
^shows og twine insert
^og twine thickness
^og beading thickness
^og material thickness
Lapriore Repro
This has a similar twine insert to original, and looks to have a closer beading thickness to original
^repro beading thickness
^repro material thickness
So we are only talking of a beading difference really between 3.67mm and 4.25/5mm. |
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Huetti_1989 |
Sun Dec 08, 2024 1:18 pm |
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Good reference for the beading!
I make pictures tomorrow, i think that the original from my 52 have a white vinyl insert.
So buying a repro work well?
-Christian |
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Huetti_1989 |
Sun Dec 08, 2024 1:26 pm |
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Worked on the next patches:
Try to keep the repair as small as possible.
-Christian
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Scotty |
Tue Dec 10, 2024 5:50 am |
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Very nice metalwork there! |
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Two Glove Boxes |
Tue Dec 10, 2024 12:04 pm |
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Try to keep the repair as small as possible.
-Christian
The best way to do it! great job! |
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Huetti_1989 |
Tue Dec 10, 2024 1:42 pm |
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Scotty wrote: Very nice metalwork there!
Thank you! Happy that you like the pictures and process i post here!
Today i run out of time, timeconsuming welding on that corner patch, a lot of hammering on that old former dent repairs, on some spots the Metal is very thin, with that rust it feels like welding cardboard to paper...
Need some more hammering anf grinding the next days, for now i going to finally ordered some new crazy expensive tool for the next few metal parts...
And some beers followed the way today!
-Christian
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djfordmanjack |
Wed Dec 11, 2024 5:57 am |
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NICE ! I also love the way you are doing things ! Of course there are so many different ways to go on a restoration, but often it seems, people are taking repair and patch panels too serious and cut away way too much original metal, only to replace it with a bad fitting aftermarket panel.
Your way of doing it on this barndoor ( as you did on the 67 Sparsamba) is just another league... beautiful ! 8) |
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wcfvw69 |
Wed Dec 11, 2024 6:25 am |
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I always enjoy these rusty barn door bus revival threads by folks that take the time to fix the metal the right way. Thanks for taking us along. :D |
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Huetti_1989 |
Fri Dec 13, 2024 1:46 am |
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djfordmanjack wrote: NICE ! I also love the way you are doing things ! Of course there are so many different ways to go on a restoration, but often it seems, people are taking repair and patch panels too serious and cut away way too much original metal, only to replace it with a bad fitting aftermarket panel.
Your way of doing it on this barndoor ( as you did on the 67 Sparsamba) is just another league... beautiful ! 8)
Thanks, yes its hard to save much original metal, in some other placet it´s gone to far. we will see.
wcfvw69 wrote: I always enjoy these rusty barn door bus revival threads by folks that take the time to fix the metal the right way. Thanks for taking us along. :D
me too! :lol:
finally flatten out the rear corner after welding:
bought some metal:
make the next patch:
and start the work on the battery tray:
-Christian |
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