TheSamba.com :: View topic - Need some help with offroad airbox intake setup

Tue Jun 10, 2025 9:21 am

I did the same.

Tue Jun 10, 2025 9:51 am

you got a whole album full of pics of things you did just like me dont ya? lol

Tue Jun 10, 2025 10:10 am

Great minds think alike and fools seldom differ! :wink:

Tue Jun 10, 2025 4:32 pm

I've had my hands on a Manweld airbox while buying tube bends at Kartek No Thanks, warped to hell and a total pain in the ass to make jet changes plus you cant use jet doctors. You just copied his flaws. I just cant help but wonder why a 3+inch air filter housing cant support 60HP. Its the size of a damn suitcase.

Wouldn't a lean condition mean you have more (flow) not less???????

Tue Jun 10, 2025 5:56 pm

DesertSasquatchXploration wrote: I've had my hands on a Manweld airbox while buying tube bends at Kartek No Thanks, warped to hell and a total pain in the ass to make jet changes plus you cant use jet doctors. You just copied his flaws. I just cant help but wonder why a 3+inch air filter housing cant support 60HP. Its the size of a damn suitcase.

Wouldn't a lean condition mean you have more (flow) not less???????

there are calculators on the internet to find CFM. On Donaldson's website they display the CFM each model will support.
Do I think these filters are overkill?
YES!
For comparison I have just one on my 2.4L Quad 4 engine.

I haven't put that one through the paces yet. Still wrapping up the new radiator fab and then new rear toyota calipers and changing over(back) to five wide.

There's just not enough time in the year for me.

Tue Jun 10, 2025 6:05 pm

I chose to use two on the baja based on another forum members experience with just one on a similar sized engine.
By the numbers a 2110 can flow anywhere from 160 to 205 CFM.

A Donaldson D080056 filter is rated @180CFM@6" of water.

Either you'll have enough or you won't. These filters cost $125/ea. to go up to the next filter your talking $400-$500/ea.

I think the choice was simple. To err on the big side, end up cheaper in the long run if things go wrong, and all my rigs end up taking the same filter.

Tue Jun 10, 2025 6:13 pm

As far as manwelder I have breifly spoken to him but have no idea what his parts are like. Never held one.

Mine are 1/4" base plates (upper and lower) and 1/8" plate for the rest. I don't think you can bust em. Would I do them different next time. Yes. Do I think a lot of people veer away from them due to the lack of access. Yes. Do they need to stay that way? No. However, without some sort of automated cutting system, the parts are hard to get right and adding complexity would add to labor and price. I spent all winter fabbing mine just going off pictures and adjusting for what I had to work with. I did most of it on my breaks at work. It took a lot longer than I ever thought it would and they're still not perfect. Exact cuts and I could get perfect easily.

Wed Jun 11, 2025 4:43 am

You want the air to be moving as slowly as possible within reason up until it gets to the carb airhorn. Like on your Quad 4 setup it would have been better to use larger diameter tubing and have the reduction in diameter happen right at the throttle body. Lower velocity air is less likely to be turbulent. Look at an MX bike's filter and airboot.

Wed Jun 11, 2025 4:56 am

DesertSasquatchXploration wrote: plus you cant use jet doctors.
Jet doctors are just a Band aid fix for poor air filtration. With those air filters you will never need them.

Wed Jun 11, 2025 8:38 am

oprn wrote: DesertSasquatchXploration wrote: plus you cant use jet doctors.
Jet doctors are just a Band aid fix for poor air filtration. With those air filters you will never need them.

exactly

Thu Jun 12, 2025 9:38 am

Got up extra early to pull the engine this morning before work and swap out my airs. Unfortunately, I must have gotten some dirt in the system and plugged an idle because it started running like crap anything under wot. oil buzzer going off and everything. To top it off, the bigger air did nothing for my flat transistion.

I did get that right didn't I? Bigger Airs bring the mains down lower?

I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't have cleared that hole area above the stacks inside my air boxes. Maybe the 1/2" hole isn't enough or maybe the stacks are coming right up to that plate restricting the flow there?

I also took a look and I think I can easily put some access doors in the tops for adjustment purposes. Having that 3.5" inlet allows me to stick my whole hand in there and I could easily manipulate some fasteners from the inside. Meaning, I could bolt it down real good. lol

I thought about using rivnuts but they project too far and would most likely hit the air horns and they would also sit proud of the top surface making a gasket tricky.

Thu Jun 12, 2025 9:43 am

I also thought about using a knockout plug.
Actually that would be the best I think.

Thu Jun 12, 2025 10:56 am

Well looky what I found..

I'll just borrow the knockout punch tool and Bob's your auntie. This might be quick but clearing out that mid plate for the stacks isn't going to be.

Looks like we're calling in tomorrow, boys!

Mon Jun 16, 2025 9:52 am

took a chance on this cheap set of guages for syncing and they work pretty good for only $60.

I cleared out the plate above the main stacks last Friday

And made my access hole

I find it hard to do things incrementaly, unfortunately. This was no exception. I cleared the mainstack more, went to 210 Airs, AND hooked my Megajolt ignition back up.
145 Main
52.5 idle
210 air

The difference is night and day and unfortunately I can't point a finger at any one thing.
It could be that I gave the mains better access to the intake vacuum. But what I think is really helping my driveablity is the ignition. I think my 009 sucks balls. That's my technical explanation. The Megajolt is just so much more powerful and adjustable. I missed the start-up feature where it changes the base timing at startup to make it turn over easier and get started.
I still haven't installed my replacement O2 sensor yet so I'm not sure exactly where I'm sitting with AFR thru the range, but driving it I don't get the feeling I'm doing damage or fouling things up. I think another big part was the 1/2" hole above the main stack.

Party on! Thanks for following along.

Mon Jun 16, 2025 9:18 pm

I used a .4" hole for many years to vent the carb bowl and jets, it worked fine, changed to open changing the engine into a different vehicle, made no difference.