TheSamba.com :: View topic - Suggest a ball valve for this heater hose?

Fri Dec 12, 2025 6:51 pm

I’ve had no end of trouble with the Vanagon heater valve above the spare tire, even after installing the new VanCafe valve and cable which is chronically bendy.

What size is this hose inner diameter and has anyone found a convenient way to put a ball valve in here?

That way I will leave the bottom valve on all winter and use the top valve.

Fri Dec 12, 2025 7:06 pm

While I don’t have a picture of the one I installed recently in our ‘84, the hose ID is basically 5/8” ID. You want a ball valve that’s small and short, since most likely you’ll need to add 5/8” hose barbs on either end of the valve to attach the hose to, once you’ve cut into it.
Ours peaks out a tiny bit from the plastic lower duct cover, but the cover must be popped off to access the valve handle in my install.
I’m okay with that setup, since I didn’t want to drill a hole in the duct trim for handle access like some people do with theirs.

Valve, full flow/port internally- get one rated for higher temps than just 200 degrees, I used brass hose barbs for ours. This is the Valve I bought from Mc-Master Carr . And the brass hose barbs too

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/5346K66

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/4073T13

Fri Dec 12, 2025 8:11 pm

5/8" barbed will work.

FWIW - I tried the new GoWesty deluxe valve and it's been great for about a year now. I tried several stock replacements, the Ford valve, and the Overland self bleeding one. None worked well.

Sat Dec 13, 2025 2:32 am

3/4 inch PEX fittings fit 5/8 inch hose that isn't bloated with age.

Sat Dec 13, 2025 6:18 am

I decided that it was just too tight to put a ball valve in that area. In addition, that's a hard-to-replace section of hose, and it would put a potential leak point for coolant inside the van, which didn't seem like a great idea. So I put a 5/8" quarter-turn ball valve in the heater hose by the passenger-side rear wheel well. I'd already removed my rear heater so I just installed the valve where the heater T was. It's easily accessible through the wheel well, and I can crack it for a little heat or open it all the way for more. I've also learned to manage the inside temps by adjusting the heater controls and fresh air vents. It might not work for everyone but it works for me. Also, make sure any valve you install can handle coolant temps.

Sat Dec 13, 2025 7:12 am

Too late for you but here is what I did. Ford valve, no problems. Been in there a few years.

Sat Dec 13, 2025 9:07 am

I also did a 5/8” valve rated for 500F back where zululep installed theirs.

It makes a huge difference. I still need to shield and seal the front tunnel, but the valve makes it less critical.

If I was going to replace the heater valve, I’d consider the Vanistan with the clever auto-bleed function. He also has a fresh air intake mod where you can fully shut off outside air.

https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/heater-valve-cable-upgrade/

Sat Dec 13, 2025 8:43 pm

Been using this mod to the dash end of the heater cable for about 20 years now

After modification

Prior to modification

Sun Dec 14, 2025 1:56 am

Can someone explain what this additional valve is doing? Confused how this different then adjusting stock hot/cold lever on dash.

Sun Dec 14, 2025 7:00 am

wesitarz wrote: 3/4 inch PEX fittings fit 5/8 inch hose that isn't bloated with age.

this is what i used in the passenger compartment. the 3/4" Male-Male PEX valve has the correct nipple OD and has ridges that retain the hose well. PEX valves are generally rated to 200F, which is sufficient in the heater circuit.

a ball valve has the advantage of flowing the full diameter of the fitting and you get maximum flow/heat. however, the flow characteristics suck in terms of regulating heat/water flow at anything less than full open. it takes a SLIGHT movement of the lever to radically change the water flow. generally, i'll 'train' a passenger to be the heat valve operator and some folk just can't grasp how small a movement is needed to fine tune the cabin heat resulting in HOT>COLD>HOT>cold. etc. with my freakishly long arms, i can adjust the valve while driving alone.

Sun Dec 14, 2025 7:04 am

whatwrenchwhere wrote: Can someone explain what this additional valve is doing? Confused how this different then adjusting stock hot/cold lever on dash.

Stopping heated coolant from reaching the heater cores. Thread from the FAQ here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271

Sun Dec 14, 2025 3:11 pm

dobryan, could you post the part number of the Ford valve you showed in your earlier post?

Sun Dec 14, 2025 5:53 pm

brickster wrote: whatwrenchwhere wrote: Can someone explain what this additional valve is doing? Confused how this different then adjusting stock hot/cold lever on dash.

Stopping heated coolant from reaching the heater cores. Thread from the FAQ here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271

Fully off in summer (which could be 1 month in Victoria) to prevent hot foot due to leaky heater control valve.

Sun Dec 14, 2025 7:26 pm

I used a Pex ball valve on my 1986. Mounted it back in the heater hose where the rear heater "teed', deleting the rear heater. It failed after 1 year, the nylon around the ball melted and wouldn't allow me to shut it off. I don't have any evidence of an overheating condition, and I was surprised to see just how it failed. Just sharing for info purposes, I might try another one just to see if it was a fluke.

Sun Dec 14, 2025 8:19 pm

Use an all-metal ball valve that is rated to handle temps higher than coolant temp levels.

Sun Dec 14, 2025 8:47 pm

That makes sense. I just bought the valve from Home Depot as it was available and convenient. Sometimes those virtues aren't all that matters!

Mon Dec 15, 2025 6:50 am

Tbob wrote: That makes sense. I just bought the valve from Home Depot as it was available and convenient. Sometimes those virtues aren't all that matters! The Valve that I linked to in my post above, is all metal and rated from -40 F to 350 F, which is a strong reason that I chose it, in addition to being small, with a small handle- easier to sneak behind the dash for install.

Mon Dec 15, 2025 7:25 am

I run the Ford heater valve as well. Note that there are two different Ford valves that look nearly identical with one having the reverse direction flow of the other, the incorrect valve for your flow direction will not shut off fully. The valves have arrows to show the design flow direction.

I ended up lengthening the lever arm on the valve to make the controls a bit more sensitive (this mod is not shown).

Mon Dec 15, 2025 8:53 am

[url] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLTTNYV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share[/url]

See if this link works from a 5/8 ball valve rated for higher temps and cast barbs.

Mon Dec 15, 2025 9:03 am

MarkWard wrote: [url] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLTTNYV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share[/url]

See if this link works from a 5/8 ball valve rated for higher temps and cast barbs. Nice- I can't tell if it's full port/full flow, but definitely has the High Temp rating that you'd like for this application.