TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Jan 01, 2026 10:20 am

OK,

So i met a guy who wants to build his Beetle.
Victor is an FGI. He gets it,
Having a pro-street Nova, pit crew for an AA gasser, etc.
He's got the knowledge and tools, but no experience building these weird things we seem to like for some reason.
He's also a successful guy who doesn't have a ton of extra time.
I can help him get the thing together,

He's got a really really nice late Oval that's mostly in original paint, even.
It's all stock and doesn't really keep up with modern traffic.

Wants to build it to run hard,
-But- we can't be cutting this car or drilling a bunch of holes.

He'll be keeping the original engine, stock beam and trans, brakes, etc. and setting them aside.

The outside of the car will be kept stock,
Sleeper, even, with only an elevation adjustment and maybe different tire sizes.
Decklid must close, peashooters out the back.

He wants power.
Used to way more, being from V8 world.
Willing to ditch heaters.
OK with not a lot of highway driving.
Stoplight car.
Able to embarrass the occasional fastguy at a light.
Might even make it to the strip one day?

He can surely take care of most anything that it might need.
Smart enough to hear an intake leak, adjust his valves, notice linkage getting out of sync, etc.
This can be a cantankerous high-maintenance engine within reason.

So...

Was thinking 2275 for ease of assembly and possible to fit in an early compartment without cutting.
84 or longer I'm not sure would be worth it.
C pistons might be a bit much.

Was considering some IDAs, but in an early compartment?
Filters?
Remember closed decklid.
The guy might hate taking care of them.
Still..
Maybe 48 IDFs?
I like those CB manifolds that flip the carbs.
36 doghouse.

CSP super comp to keep the peashooters.
1 5/8 or maybe 1 3/4"??

Tims heads, 42 x 37.5

86b maybe 86c?

9.5:1 or more?

This motor has to have a vintage look/feel to it.

Was thinking mag case,
010 or maybe an old Mallory?

Keep it light, old school, simple?

While i would go full old-school with IDAs, mag case, 86C and 1 3/4 exhaust,
Maybe a guy who actually has a life besides VWs would rather be
44 IDFs, 86B, 1 5/8?

An aluminum case wouldn't fit the vibe,
And they're heavy,
But maybe that would be worth it for the longevity?

What you guys think?
Remember, nice OG Oval,
Vintage vibes, sleeper.
Not Turbo or EFI or any of this stuff.
36HP vintage speed won't make the power.
The guy is an FGI but new to VWs.

For the box I'll probably do a compromise street box like these others i did.
Short swing.
4.12 - 3.78/2.06/1.32/.92
Probably drill a super diff for some more oil.
Car is split case originally. Needs a bus nose cone, right?
Don't think it'll need the nice axles if he keeps street tires...
For the mounts I'll do the slapper front mount like MCM sells up front,
Kafer bar for the rear, maybe Mendeola, or..?
That way we don't cut the car.

Beam I'm thinking it would be nice to have a solution where we change out the whole thing.
Would like maybe a 2" narrow, adjusters, sway, drop spindles.

This car will e lowered enough to level it out and handle better,
but not slammed. Suspension still has to work.
Remember, sleeper, plus we have some bumpy roads.

Brakes are still in the air.
He asked me "What's best?"
Pointed him to the full vented CSP wide-five setup.
Over $4K with shipping... We might re-think that. :P

So, what you guys think?

What would you be building for him,
And why?

Thu Jan 01, 2026 10:41 am

Anything from DKP. 8)

Thu Jan 01, 2026 10:46 am

Might as well just use an 86 crank and Icon C's with 5.7 rods. That will keep it narrow.

86B, 9.8:1, 48IDF's, and have Greg Tims build you something between a S2 and a full weekend warrior head. Maybe even 44x37.

The bigger displacement and the smaller cam will help out will the low end power.

2" adjustable beam, drop spindles, and adjustable dropped spring plates. Its a REALLY nice driving setup. Not slammed, but lowered. Simple 4 wheel disks all around. Super fancy calipers are not necessary. They all lock up the brakes just the same.

This was built by Sled, using Type E parts. Very simple setup, and it falls together. 145's, and 205/70/15's help it look vintage and meaty. Ultimate driver, especially with a big, but somewhat mild 2387cc. :D

Brian

Thu Jan 01, 2026 11:43 am

you're going to get a thousand different opinions and ideas.

if it were my car...

2" narrowed/adjustable beam with regular disc brakes (no fancy $$$ calipers or rotors needed) up front.

1" (or 2" depending on intended ride height) dropped and adjustable spring plates with regular disc brakes out back.

large bore dual circuit master

2" narrowed HD sway bar

I like your suggested trans specs

Berg style traction bar. This would be a great addition for hard launches and shifting on the street.

engine I'd definitely go 2276 to 2387. C pistons are a little more of a pain to assemble, but yield an engine that's stock width.

if he's wanting a stoplight car that is really fun and can spank some big V8 cars, id be leaning toward the larger displacement and bigger cam with higher compression. (86C and 10+:1). The milder 2276 combo would also be fun though

48 dellortos so that the idle jets are easier to access in a beetle without cutting the inner fenders for windows.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 11:47 am

I love the idea that it can be put back to stock in the future!

...but... how are you going to get enough air into the engine compartment? Tennis ball?

If it were my project the front beam would stay full width.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 11:51 am

My 2 cents:

2180 with 92TW, it's only .25" wider than a stock 1600. I have a FK8 cam but a FK10 is more aggressive. IDA on Berg reverse manifolds. And a Bosch 010 for that period look.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:06 pm

Clatter wrote:
CSP super comp to keep the peashooters.
1 5/8 or maybe 1 3/4"??

010 or maybe an old Mallory?

3 thoughts.

Don't overlook the A-1 Sidewinder with peashooter tips.

For really old school looks, how about a magneto? Those are like Viagra to us old school v-8 guys.
-or-
If he does go with an 010 or Mallory find an older ignition box. Mount it on the firewall up high behind the shroud. I'm old enough to remember when only race cars & real fast street cars ran a Mallory HyFire or MSD box. It would definately give it the nostalga look IMHO.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:08 pm

oprn wrote:
...but... how are you going to get enough air into the engine compartment? Tennis ball?

I would vote for adjustable stand offs. He could prop it open for cooling or close it up for looks.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:09 pm

oprn wrote: If it were my project the front beam would stay full width.

Not happening with disk brakes and drop spindles. The tires will clobber the fenders on turns, and driveways.

Brian

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:16 pm

Glenn wrote: My 2 cents:

2180 with 92TW, it's only .25" wider than a stock 1600.
Isn't a 1600 already too tight to fit in a 36 HP engine bay? Or is it just the 1600 tin?

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:18 pm

Brian_e wrote: oprn wrote: If it were my project the front beam would stay full width.

Not happening with disk brakes and drop spindles. The tires will clobber the fenders on turns, and driveways.

Brian
Ah yes, true if he goes for a wide 5 bolt pattern but what about the Ghia 4 bolt discs?

Thu Jan 01, 2026 12:29 pm

For an old school look, perhaps front disc brakes and Type 3 rear drums.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 1:11 pm

175/65r-15 front tire is fantastic for a street driven car that looks great and handles well

Thu Jan 01, 2026 1:21 pm

oprn wrote: Brian_e wrote: oprn wrote: If it were my project the front beam would stay full width.

Not happening with disk brakes and drop spindles. The tires will clobber the fenders on turns, and driveways.

Brian
Ah yes, true if he goes for a wide 5 bolt pattern but what about the Ghia 4 bolt discs?

Very close in width difference.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 2:15 pm

oprn wrote: Brian_e wrote: oprn wrote: If it were my project the front beam would stay full width.

Not happening with disk brakes and drop spindles. The tires will clobber the fenders on turns, and driveways.

Brian
Ah yes, true if he goes for a wide 5 bolt pattern but what about the Ghia 4 bolt discs?
The EMPI K&L dropped spindles for Ghia disc brakes says it increases the track width 5/8 inch, so about 8mm per side. Since this is an oval window the track width increase would be 15mm more (for a total of 15.5mm each side) because the oval window Bugs have narrower stock brakes (and narrower front track width). Most aftermarket wheels also increase track width, though some 4-lug wheels are available with closer to stock offset. The stock wheel for '65 and older Bugs is ET+33mm.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 2:21 pm

daveblank wrote: If he does go with an 010 or Mallory find an older ignition box. Mount it on the firewall up high behind the shroud. I'm old enough to remember when only race cars & real fast street cars ran a Mallory HyFire or MSD box. It would definately give it the nostalga look IMHO.
The Winterburn CDI has an old school look and works very well with the 010 and points.

Thu Jan 01, 2026 3:03 pm

if that guy is that into racing and your hoping to impress him, I think you better step things up as far as the engine goes. sure, the idea and suggestions would make a nice engine but I dont think nice is going to put a smile on 'ol boys face.
maybe go e85 and actually put some compression to it. but even if you dont go that far, you can do more than just 9.5cr

Thu Jan 01, 2026 4:05 pm

2387. 86 Scat crank, 94 ICON "C's" with remaster cylinders. CB Wedgeports or Superpros, 86C/1.4 rocker (or maybe CB 2292?), 11:1 comp with premium pump gas. 48 dellorto DRLA's on FULLY match ported (welded) Big Beef manifolds. Berg carb linkage with a 010 triggering a more powerful coil.

run a tucked sidewinder or python and make some fake stock pea shooters.

better yet, run a WASP true merged with muffler, and not try to make it SO much a sleeper. True sleeper is going to be nearly impossible with stock-look wheels and tires. If it's lowered and has aftermarket wheels, why not build a badass engine to match and have the whole car be pissed off.

:twisted:

Thu Jan 01, 2026 5:06 pm

yeh, more like that ^^^^

Thu Jan 01, 2026 5:36 pm

sled wrote: better yet, run a WASP true merged with muffler, and not try to make it SO much a sleeper. True sleeper is going to be nearly impossible with stock-look wheels and tires. If it's lowered and has aftermarket wheels, why not build a badass engine to match and have the whole car be pissed off.

:twisted:
Like this? Just a late model, most people don't know the difference.

The exhaust is the give away and the sound.

BTW... cool car.