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Sat Jan 03, 2026 3:05 pm

Let me skip over some things and see if can provide enough information to sort this very challenging shifting problem that so far other experts have been unable to solve.

The parameters:
Porsche 356 pressure plate (so not slamming the clutch pedal into the bulkhead when shifting).
Possibly new clutch disk measures per Bentley factory manual specification for thickness and is not glazed.
Bowden tube properly installed such the fore end slips over the steel chassis tube and the aft end into the casting.
Bowden sag is per the Bentley manual.
Clutch cable free play adjusted per manual.
New Delrin shift rod bushing.
Shifter adjusted per manual.
Doug's Bugs and Bunnies forgot to put fluid into the transaxle after I paid over $900 for replacing the axle seals (five times I did it myself and still leaked, even using light coating of high quality sealant and installing oil slingers).

The symptoms:
Whilst the rear is on axle stands, first and reverse can be selected; not tried the others.
Once on the ground will not attempt to shift into any gears and only grinds reverse.

If someone is able and willing to come out to central Mesa Arizona, I gladly pay for the help, I am worn out and really don't have the time to keep chasing my tail.

Sat Jan 03, 2026 4:15 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote: Let me skip over some things and see if can provide enough information to sort this very challenging shifting problem that so far other experts have been unable to solve.

The parameters:
Porsche 356 pressure plate (so not slamming the clutch pedal into the bulkhead when shifting).
Possibly new clutch disk measures per Bentley factory manual specification for thickness and is not glazed.
Bowden tube properly installed such the fore end slips over the steel chassis tube and the aft end into the casting.
Bowden sag is per the Bentley manual.
Clutch cable free play adjusted per manual.
New Delrin shift rod bushing.
Shifter adjusted per manual.
Doug's Bugs and Bunnies forgot to put fluid into the transaxle after I paid over $900 for replacing the axle seals (five times I did it myself and still leaked, even using light coating of high quality sealant and installing oil slingers).

The symptoms:
Whilst the rear is on axle stands, first and reverse can be selected; not tried the others.
Once on the ground will not attempt to shift into any gears and only grinds reverse.

If someone is able and willing to come out to central Mesa Arizona, I gladly pay for the help, I am worn out and really don't have the time to keep chasing my tail.

A few things to go over here, things that don't cost anything but a few moments of your. time...

Did you happen to drive it with no oil in it?

If so, any ominous noises coming out of it?

Did it shift ok prior to the seal replacement?

Did they remove the transaxle to install seals?

Does the clutch pedal action feel normal?

Can you get something/someone under there to verify the clutch arm on the side of the transaxle is actually pulling forward when someone pushes the clutch pedal?

Let's try to nail down what has actually changed between when it shifted ok and the moment it didn't, and work backward from there.

Sat Jan 03, 2026 4:36 pm

Thank you Bob for taking the time to make such a long reply, much appreciated! :D

Rob Combs wrote:
A few things to go over here, things that don't cost anything but a few moments of your. time...

1) Did you happen to drive it with no oil in it?

2) If so, any ominous noises coming out of it?

3) Did it shift ok prior to the seal replacement?

4) Did they remove the transaxle to install seals?

5) Does the clutch pedal action feel normal?

6) Can you get something/someone under there to verify the clutch arm on the side of the transaxle is actually pulling forward when someone pushes the clutch pedal?

1) Yes, over 150 miles.

2) I did not notice anything, otherwise would have checked it earlier. Doug's claims no damage was done, though of course can't be trusted.

3) Shifted great, less than 10,000 miles on the rebuild.

4) No they did not (went in the bay to have a look at their claim the new boots were leaking).

5) Even better then before properly installing the new Bowden tube (might have put in a stiffer clutch for no reason).

6) I can also confirm this as pushed the pedal down, propped with a block, then wedged a pry bar in such I could then release the pedal yet have pressure off the nut to make it far easier to turn the nut. Additionally, I can look back and see the hub turning when shifting whilst the back end is off the ground. If wanted additional confirmation, probably could figure out a way to mount a camera, pastor is rarely home and the only one able and willing to help at this time.

Rob Combs wrote: Let's try to nail down what has actually changed between when it shifted ok and the moment it didn't, and work backward from there.

I been thinking on this for a couple weeks now and the only changes are changing the clutch cable (as said mistaking it as bad), using the proper double nut setup, and replacing the shift bushing.

Speaking of which, would not be adverse removing the shift coupler and trying to shift with the engine on and wheels down.

Today is my Sabbath (on the worship team so don't get rest on Sundays), though plan to stay after the service and get the wheel off and tighten the adjustment, in case the cable changed adjustment and some reason affecting wheels up versus wheels down behavior. I am wishing had someone with a truck, get some 2x8s, build ramps with a long top such could slightly drive yet be able to get underneath to adjust the clutch cable, since the problem is only with wheels down.

Sat Jan 03, 2026 5:02 pm

Ok, first thing to notice - clutch cable adjustment will not depend on wheels up vs wheels down. I usually just jack up the left rear, pull the wheel, and reach in there to adjust the cable.

How shot was your original shift bushing before putting the delrin bushing in place?

How’s your shift coupler in the back holding up?

If the rear coupler is toast you’re going to have problems selecting gears.

The super-tight fit of the delrin bushing will probably require your shifter to be adjusted PERFECTLY.

Get your clutch cable adjustment dialed in (hopefully the cable guide hasn’t broken loose inside the tunnel) then see if you can slightly loosen the shifter bolts and move it around until you can find more gears. You should be able to find them with the engine off. Be very careful messing around with the shift rods with engine running and unknown clutch cable adjustment accuracy - that’s how people get hurt!

Sat Jan 03, 2026 5:02 pm

You say no oil, but assume residual oil since "only" axle boot splits/leaks? Or did they drain the gearbox before the boot replacement - meaning effectively empty?

If up on axle stands and secure, it should be possible to test clutch and gears.
Also considering that you may want to shift them even at the most direct position possible which is at the shift coupler under rear seat. One has to think a bit though to replicate the shift pattern from the front (or run a dry rung and write down the recipie).

Checking that all turns easy and freely when in neutral, with no bad noises etc. when up on stands is a good start anyhow. With the right tools you can also do this in gear while it is slow. But you should be able to get through the gears (especially if removing spark plugs).

Sat Jan 03, 2026 6:14 pm

Rob Combs wrote: Ok, first thing to notice - clutch cable adjustment will not depend on wheels up vs wheels down. I usually just jack up the left rear, pull the wheel, and reach in there to adjust the cable.

At this point wanted to rule out clutch adjustment and having to put on the wheel multiple times to test the adjustment.

Rob Combs wrote: How shot was your original shift bushing before putting the delrin bushing in place?

Totally knackered and the clip was not present. Oddly only lasted about 2,500 miles, guess Wolfsburg West isn't what it used to be. Thus why did the upgrade, then found out the gentlemen that came up with the idea is pleasant person and wants customers to benefit, not just selling and ghosting.

Rob Combs wrote: How’s your shift coupler in the back holding up?

Probably original, at the time didn't have the funds to replace, so bushed it with fuel hose. I didn't consider this since shifted fine on the axle stands. But someone at the church made an anonymous gift to me (left in the offering), not knowing this, just was holding off ordering in case needed other bits and bobs while the transaxle was out.

Rob Combs wrote: If the rear coupler is toast you’re going to have problems selecting gears.

I wondered, but crossed this off since the repair felt sufficient.

Rob Combs wrote: The super-tight fit of the delrin bushing will probably require your shifter to be adjusted PERFECTLY.

Broken in with all the shifting been doing, though yes, did have to slightly loosen the aft bolt and with the engine off, wiggle in fourth (bit crunchy and noisy).

Rob Combs wrote: Get your clutch cable adjustment dialed in (hopefully the cable guide hasn’t broken loose inside the tunnel) then see if you can slightly loosen the shifter bolts and move it around until you can find more gears. You should be able to find them with the engine off. Be very careful messing around with the shift rods with engine running and unknown clutch cable adjustment accuracy - that’s how people get hurt!

Oh, the Bentley is wrong about the specification? IIRC specifies 6 to 12mm, though doesn't say at what amount of pressure. This was the first time asked the only local, well over an hour away, to come show me so could know doing it right. But, being mentally retarded, folks just don't want to be around me, so I have learned not to have feelings and live life mostly isolated.

Sat Jan 03, 2026 6:26 pm

redhot wrote: You say no oil, but assume residual oil since "only" axle boot splits/leaks? Or did they drain the gearbox before the boot replacement - meaning effectively empty?

If up on axle stands and secure, it should be possible to test clutch and gears.
Also considering that you may want to shift them even at the most direct position possible which is at the shift coupler under rear seat. One has to think a bit though to replicate the shift pattern from the front (or run a dry rung and write down the recipie).

Checking that all turns easy and freely when in neutral, with no bad noises etc. when up on stands is a good start anyhow. With the right tools you can also do this in gear while it is slow. But you should be able to get through the gears (especially if removing spark plugs).

I don't consider one quart to be an oil filled transmission, though I could have used "severely under specified fill amount".

The over $900, $500 paid by an anonymous person, was for the axle seals, fluid, and installation (original quote was for $500 IIRC), then oh and you need new shoes added the about $400 in parts and labor. I know did not replace the boots, just tightened (if it was a reputable shop have them pull the transaxle and install the original type boot, I didn't because didn't want to blow apart the transaxle).

See how mentally retarded I am? I tried to say just that: "up on axle stands and secure", though once again failed. I was up most of the night on the 31st bummed was going to be alive in 2026. Not depressed, just bummed, mostly because I am such a burden to society. That is what is so puzzling, tested "up on axle stands and secure" yet once on the ground, would not go into gear, which of course is illogical, defies logic.

How would a ladder part help diagnose the shifting?

Sat Jan 03, 2026 7:23 pm

Lets put the self degradation aside and focus on problem..... When new clutch disk was put in was pressure plate changed also, and is the throw out bearing proper for the pressure plate and what about throw out bearing shaft.... Welds still good and no bending or flexing of throwout bearing arms....

The message I am getting is you are not disconnecting the clutch completely to take tension/pressure off gears to allow you to shift....

Sat Jan 03, 2026 7:44 pm

Excellent points Dale

Adriel, I'm not suggesting the Bentley book is wrong. Before I understood how to do some of this by feel, every time I tried to set free play of the brake or clutch I always just confused myself. Best I can do to try to explain is if the clutch pedal is rock firm as soon as you touch it, the cable is too tight. If the pedal drops an inch and a half before it starts to do any work (you can feel it go from loose to resisting you), it is too loose. The proper adjustment is somewhere in between.

Hopefully the oil level wasn't so low that any damage was done. I had visions of running a dry transmission for 150 miles there for a second. That wouldn't be so good.

For my own car, I like to be able to swing the pedal by hand half an inch or so, from the pedal pad, doesn't have to be exact, before it starts to resist my hand pushing the pedal down. That's just me, but something like that should get you close enough to diagnose the rest. Others will have their own opinions on this.

I'm still a little concerned about the shift rod and it's guide and attachment points - if the rear coupler is roached you will have engagement problems. I don't now if fuel hose, while a clever substitute, will be strong enough to overcome the resistance of the shift rails in the transmission.

If the metal coupler "cage" is still in good shape and the rubber pads are shot, that's a $5 fix, with either rubber or urethane pads. Personally, I run the red urethane pads in my factory coupler, because I like the hyper-positive engagement feel. I understand they may not live as long but it's a tradeoff I'm willing to make.

If you look around on this forum, you'll see some don't feel like the factory style shift rod guide bushings are made nearly as well as the old factory bushings. They might have a point. The delrin bushing might be awesome once you get the coupler sorted. But at the moment it seems like you may have a super-strong rod guide bushing and a not-so-strong coupler. That might not work.

My own setup is those red coupler bushings, a factory-style rod guide bushing, and an Empi trigger shifter. It took a bit of time and there was a bit of frustration to get it all set up, but now it's done and it shifts into all gears quite well.

I'm really hoping it's as simple as getting your coupler fixed up, having another look at your shifter adjustment after you have a firm coupling and a firm guide bushing, and get it shifting better than new.

This IS solvable. Hang in there.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 1:39 pm

Sounds to me like the clutch is not fully dis-engaging. Need more stroke, or the clutch is broken (spring).

Sun Jan 04, 2026 2:05 pm

Dale M. wrote: Lets put the self degradation aside and focus on problem..... .

Hmmm, I didn't see it that way, see it as fact. If I was not mentally deformed, would not take over five years to get a Volkswagen on the road, maybe six months at that. Appreciate knowing comes off that way, thanks.

Dale M. wrote: When new clutch disk was put in was pressure plate changed also, and is the throw out bearing proper for the pressure plate and what about throw out bearing shaft.... Welds still good and no bending or flexing of throwout bearing arms.....

Bought it as an assembly, like you buy a clutch kit from FLAPS, sans the alignment tool (got at least three of those).

Everything I found mentioned nothing about changing bearings or changing the shaft for Kennedy clutch systems, but then I am not great with internet or theSamba searches. The Porsche 356 setup has only slightly more pressure and shorter throw, there is a difference in shifting with it and love it, partly as takes more skill (also love the feedback).

Dale M. wrote: The message I am getting is you are not disconnecting the clutch completely to take tension/pressure off gears to allow you to shift....

That's what I am feeling too, but as asserted by others, this is illogical as there should be no difference in cable tension between wheels up and wheels down.

This is where longer wheel ramps be nice, as adjust tighter until can shift into gear, just ignore the factory specification. I can do oil changes without needing to raise the rear, but not tried squeezing myself under there and don't feel so comfortable doing that while the engine is running.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 2:49 pm

With the car not rolling, any mass of the car itself and through the drivetrain is the difference. The drivetrain itself would be though.

I would do the same test as I described in this post - since it is fairly quick and easy. And tells quite a bit.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=808352

redhot wrote: For me this would seem then to be clutch/gerabox/engine related rather than the connection to the pedal.

Next I would do is to - given your car is on a flat surface put the car in 4th gear (should be possible while standing still). Then looking at the engine you should see it rotate if you push/pull the car a bit forward or backwards.

Then do the same with clutch pressed in while someone else helps with seeing if engine rotates. It should not if the clutch decoupled the transmission from the engine with pedal pressed in.

Easy check and helps check if the problem is to relase the clutch or other.

See if the clutch lever on gearbox moves fully also;

Sun Jan 04, 2026 2:53 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote: Let me skip over some things and see if can provide enough information to sort this very challenging shifting problem that so far other experts have been unable to solve.

The parameters:
Porsche 356 pressure plate (so not slamming the clutch pedal into the bulkhead when shifting).
Possibly new clutch disk measures per Bentley factory manual specification for thickness and is not glazed.

Do you have the part numbers / manufacturer for these? So they can be compared with Beetle parts?

Also confirm what car and engine year/model you are working on. The signature text may indicate a '64?

See this link; hence the question on combination of pressure plate and friction disc.

https://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?p=350166

"All 180 mm clutch disks for VWs and Porsches are the same size and all have friction material measures 9.1-9.5mm new with the same wear limit of 7.7mm. They are interchangeable. Both VW and 356 180 mm F/W's use the same depth of .944. If your 180mm F/W has been resurfaced you should only use the solid center disk to avoid interference with the F/W and or gland nut.

VW 200mm disks are thinner new, at 9.1-9.6mm than 200mm disks for 356 Porsches that measure 9.7-10.1. If a VW disk is used with a 200mm Porsches F/W that is at the correct Porsche depth of .984 it will slip from day 1."

Sun Jan 04, 2026 3:04 pm

Rob Combs wrote:
Adriel, I'm not suggesting the Bentley book is wrong. Before I understood how to do some of this by feel, every time I tried to set free play of the brake or clutch I always just confused myself. Best I can do to try to explain is if the clutch pedal is rock firm as soon as you touch it, the cable is too tight. If the pedal drops an inch and a half before it starts to do any work (you can feel it go from loose to resisting you), it is too loose. The proper adjustment is somewhere in between.

Exactly. If too tight will not allow shifting with the engine on and if too loose will slip, glaze the clutch (if not set on fire due to excessive heat), and drastically reduce fuel economy.

I use my fingers to feel it, then know where starts to engage the pressure plate, or where it at least feels this way. But, been so long ago I adjusted clutch free play, I wanted someone local to at least confirm my adjustment. That's the trouble daily driving a very rare vehicle, isn't going to be anyone local to help, but, what I can afford (free since inherited and $28 in insurance).

Rob Combs wrote:
Hopefully the oil level wasn't so low that any damage was done. I had visions of running a dry transmission for 150 miles there for a second. That wouldn't be so good.

I know damage was done, but, be hard to prove in court and not worth my time. Thankfully the original wheel bearings should have had at least some fluid splash in, didn't have the words on how to insist they pull the hubs off and show me they didn't overheat and no one would go with me. I know if say the words wrong, there is a possibility will get at least once solid punch, had that happen before and got the worst concussion the older Arizona State University sports medicine doctor had seen, or them just telling me to pound sand. Save my bread and keep my eyes open for a Brazilian or German set, as hope my nephew gets to drive Ruby until at least he is aged (being I am 39 my time has run out for having children).

Rob Combs wrote:
For my own car, I like to be able to swing the pedal by hand half an inch or so, from the pedal pad, doesn't have to be exact, before it starts to resist my hand pushing the pedal down. That's just me, but something like that should get you close enough to diagnose the rest. Others will have their own opinions on this.

Okay.

Rob Combs wrote:
I'm still a little concerned about the shift rod and it's guide and attachment points - if the rear coupler is roached you will have engagement problems. I don't now if fuel hose, while a clever substitute, will be strong enough to overcome the resistance of the shift rails in the transmission.

Agreed, fix what is out of specification, especially the easy items first, then once all that is done, then pull the engine.

Rob Combs wrote:
If the metal coupler "cage" is still in good shape and the rubber pads are shot, that's a $5 fix, with either rubber or urethane pads. Personally, I run the red urethane pads in my factory coupler, because I like the hyper-positive engagement feel. I understand they may not live as long but it's a tradeoff I'm willing to make.

Yes, the cage is fine.

I am finding for 1965 and newer replacement pads, can you please provide a source for 1964, please?

At $5 to $10, I will try urethane, probably less hardness then the totally rock hard rubber that was there. :lol: Worse case, only takes a few minutes to change.

As a conservationist, rather replace the pads then throw away rebuildable parts, plus the whole unit is about $50 IIRC.

Rob Combs wrote:
If you look around on this forum, you'll see some don't feel like the factory style shift rod guide bushings are made nearly as well as the old factory bushings. They might have a point. The delrin bushing might be awesome once you get the coupler sorted. But at the moment it seems like you may have a super-strong rod guide bushing and a not-so-strong coupler. That might not work.

This also the view of the VW Facebook groups and myself, thus why went with delrin.

I also see the logic the whole needs to work together, rather then having soft rubber. In fact found some VW pads had what looks like nylon bushings.

Rob Combs wrote:
My own setup is those red coupler bushings, a factory-style rod guide bushing, and an Empi trigger shifter. It took a bit of time and there was a bit of frustration to get it all set up, but now it's done and it shifts into all gears quite well.

I highly recommend the original "Washburn's "THE ORIGINAL" Delrin Performance Shift Rod Bushing" as easy upgrade that feels great so far, even compared to a new original style (no softness particularly pushing down for reverse).

Rob Combs wrote: I'm really hoping it's as simple as getting your coupler fixed up, having another look at your shifter adjustment after you have a firm coupling and a firm guide bushing, and get it shifting better than new.

Me too, but with my luck I will have to pull the engine.

Rob Combs wrote: This IS solvable. Hang in there.

Just might take months, why pushed Ruby all the way under the cover.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 4:27 pm

redhot wrote: With the car not rolling, any mass of the car itself and through the drivetrain is the difference. The drivetrain itself would be though.

I would do the same test as I described in this post - since it is fairly quick and easy. And tells quite a bit.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=808352

redhot wrote: For me this would seem then to be clutch/gerabox/engine related rather than the connection to the pedal.

Next I would do is to - given your car is on a flat surface put the car in 4th gear (should be possible while standing still). Then looking at the engine you should see it rotate if you push/pull the car a bit forward or backwards.

Then do the same with clutch pressed in while someone else helps with seeing if engine rotates. It should not if the clutch decoupled the transmission from the engine with pedal pressed in.

Easy check and helps check if the problem is to relase the clutch or other.

See if the clutch lever on gearbox moves fully also;

Will do, thank you.

By the way, I am a tactile learner, so reading and especially listening to instructions is difficult. Why I often just jump in and figure out the repair rather then the manual.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 4:32 pm

Well this is a puzzle too, the current shift coupler is defiantly been in there a long time, but it is the 1965 and newer style and not this:

I don't see any way to fit the early style, so stick with the late style, which is a better design, and add it to the list of Ruby's oddities (like 1964 seat frames with 1965 upholstery).

Sun Jan 04, 2026 4:34 pm

Good luck!

Just be aware.

If the clutch wire adjustment is too TIGHT (no free play at pedal), then the clutch has less clamping pressure and can start slipping. Same as driving with left foot on clutch pedal all the time.

If too LOOSE then you will not have complete stroke of the clutch lever arm, hence you never release the clamping pressure and the engine and gearbox are always connected. This is siimilar to a broken clutch wire in the extreme.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 5:26 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote: Well this is a puzzle too, the current shift coupler is defiantly been in there a long time, but it is the 1965 and newer style and not this:

I don't see any way to fit the early style, so stick with the late style, which is a better design, and add it to the list of Ruby's oddities (like 1964 seat frames with 1965 upholstery).

This might turn out to be a good "problem" to have. If you have the late style, which forgive me, I assumed you had in the first place (didn't realize the year of your car), puts you back in the realm of $5 shift coupler bushings...May work out in your favor.

Sun Jan 04, 2026 5:45 pm

Rob Combs wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote: Well this is a puzzle too, the current shift coupler is defiantly been in there a long time, but it is the 1965 and newer style and not this:

I don't see any way to fit the early style, so stick with the late style, which is a better design, and add it to the list of Ruby's oddities (like 1964 seat frames with 1965 upholstery).

This might turn out to be a good "problem" to have. If you have the late style, which forgive me, I assumed you had in the first place (didn't realize the year of your car), puts you back in the realm of $5 shift coupler bushings...May work out in your favor.

Yes, I see it as a good "problem."

Prices gone way up, the only source was $18 (already purchased so get here soon as possible). But less then buying NOS which is the only other option (and being such could last only a very short time).

Mon Jan 05, 2026 10:30 am

Recently I had to fix a very early Bay Window shift coupler. It seemed very old.

The cheek pieces were made from a combination of plastic and rubber.

The plastic formed "frames" around the rubber and provided a hard tube through the rubber coupler for the bolt going through the shift rod.

Over time the rubber had failed, and the plastic parts moved freely.

The whole coupler cage was smaller than a Late Bay coupler , so the polyurethane cheek pieces I had spare did not fit.
So I carved them down to fit using a sharp knife on a block of wood.

The end result was a very positive gear shift.

It only takes a few degrees of unwanted movement within the coupler for a gear shift to be a problem.

I do not think that adding rubber fuel hose as a spacer will make it sufficiently good.

When you are testing gearbox operation, you only need one rear wheel off the ground, nothing fancy.

I often use a phone camera to record what is happening if I need somebody to safely observe things operating, or in a confined space.

For instance watching the clutch lever operate.

Work out a way to fix the phone in place, hit record, go and operate the clutch and gearchange.

Stop the engine then recover the phone and see what the phone has recorded. .