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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:04 pm Post subject: 1969 1300 Beetle restoration project - Veronica. |
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I have recently bought a 1969 Beetle (1300cc) as a restoration project.
http://veronicawilkinson.blogspot.com
One of the first things we`ll be getting done is compression test on the engine to see if its worth keeping or replacing with a recon unit.
But before we start, we need some technical details on the engine such as the compression ratio, engine timing details etc. and other such relevant information. I have searched the net but have found basically nothing.
If anyone can help me with this, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Last edited by F1Racer on Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:25 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:03 am Post subject: |
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It's not too surprising you are having trouble, there's not a whole lot of data on those out there, much of the data you see if USA model oriented and they didn't sell the 1300 in the USA after the 1966 model year.
First of all I'd see if it really still IS a 1300 in there. I mean, it still has the 1300SP look to it - that's a vac-only distributor and a 1300 air cleaner. However with that red cooling tin who knows what's been done to the engine in the past.
My guess is to go by the 1966 1300 specs as for horsepower and compression ratio. It's probably got a 30PICT-2 instead of 30PICT-1 carburetor.
The timing is always keyed to what distributor you have so you need to go and find out what part number is on yours (it's around facing the front of the car and it looks like you might have to scrape some grime off to see it)
Here's the technical data out of a 1966 1300 owner's manual:
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 2:13 am Post subject: |
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Wow, brilliant stuff ! Thanks a lot glutamodo !.
The red stuff on the car is this 'red lead' paint which the previous owner put on which I think is sealing primer. I`ll be taking that off and priming and re-painting in sating black once the engine is dropped out.
The owner also sold it to me as a 1300 and he was a mechanic who worked on it for a while as it belonged to his daughter so Im reasonably sure thats the original 69 engine in there. Clock shows 107,000kms (not miles).
This info you have provided is invaluable and just what I was after.
Thanks again. |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:50 am Post subject: |
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you're welcome. Post your distributor number when you got it. My guess is it's a 113905205T or something similar - those get timed to TDC statically or at idle with the vac line unhooked and plugged off.
Also, for comparison's sake, here's a chart I put together showing all of the US-spec engines in the 60s and 70s. So you can see how the (1966) 1300SP compared to the other US-spec engines.
And lastly, not much info here but here's a page from a non-US brochure from 1969 showing the 1300 engine model's specs:
-Andy
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you again glutamodo. My mechanic who is doing this restoration with me will love this.
What he tells me he needs is the figures for the compression pressure (which he tells me is measured in 'bar').
I have bought the Haynes manual and 4 other Beetle info and restoration books from Amazon which hopefully will be here this week or early next week so if I can't glean that specific info, maybe it`ll be in the books. |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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The Haynes 1300-1500 book was pretty good for those. it's no longer in print though, they've combined all the old 12, 13, 15 and 1600 manuals into one and it's not near as detailed as the separate ones were.
You can convert PSI to Bar easily. Just divide the PSI number by 14.5.
for a compression test - 100 is usually the lowest you'd want to see. Good is 120-130. That would be like, say 7 bar for the low end and 8-9 bar or higher for good compression.
-Andy |
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zzhayward Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2005 Posts: 258 Location: Philomath, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:23 pm Post subject: 1300 |
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| If I remember right the 1300 had the 1500 stroked crank (69 mm?) but used the 1200 pistons also the flywheel was one year with the 6 volt flywheel starter teeth but the o ring crank to flywheel seal. It used the 180 mm clutch I think |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:15 am Post subject: |
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He's talking about the non-US 1300. It was still offered outside the US in 1967-1970 and featured things not seen on the USA 1966 6V version. His would be 12V but with 180mm clutch - and has the O-ring style flywheel. (actually that flywheel change to the Oring style happened when it was still 6V during model year 1966- April 26, 1966)
It's not exactly the 1200 pistons either - the wrist pin is different size.
-Andy |
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:01 am Post subject: |
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OK so it seems after further inspection that my car is a 1969 chassis (going by its number (119xxxxxx) but the engine in it is coded 'F' meaning its a 1966 unit, right ?
The engine that should be in the car is the H type.
I do indeed have the 30PICT-2 distributor so I dunno how that affects the timing but any help there would be appreciated.
At the moment the engine is now out of the car and on a bench. Hopefully we are going to do an compression test on it by cranking the car with an electric motor that we have.
I wish there was somewhere I could see an engine comparison between all the types like B,F,H etc. I have spotted a B type engine for sale but I have no idea if the flywheel size is the same or what else to look out for before I consider buying. So I'll likely lose the opportunity to get it as its going to get sold in around 2hrs time.
Oh well better that, than buying and shipping only for it not to fit.
Here's where we're at right now... Maybe I should start a dedicated thread for her.
http://racingrenders.com/vw/ver-1.jpg
http://racingrenders.com/vw/ver-2.jpg
http://racingrenders.com/vw/ver-3.jpg
http://racingrenders.com/vw/ver-4.jpg
http://racingrenders.com/vw/ver-5.jpg |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:15 am Post subject: |
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| F1Racer wrote: |
OK so it seems after further inspection that my car is a 1969 chassis (going by its number (119xxxxxx) but the engine in it is coded 'F' meaning its a 1966 unit, right ?
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No, in your other thread I mentioned this - they still kept making 1300 models for YEARS after they quit selling them in the USA. Between 1967 and 1970 when the single port version was ended, they produced over a million more 1300 engines.
I can't tell for sure but it looks like your fan belt is blocking your final digit in your engine's seial number. If that is true that that is a June 1969 engine you have there. And that's definately a non-US model - it's got swingaxle, in the US it would have had "IRS" rear suspension in 1969.
Post a photo of your flywheel/clutch too if you can.
I was interested in knowing what the number on the distributor was. Also the carb, but the number I wanted to you find on your 30PICT-2 was on the base flange, and I can't quite see it in your photo. Here's some examples of what this number looks like:
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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| I`ll get those photos and info for you this weekend (hopefully). |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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We should probably pick a thread between the two and just use the one. I can go and insert all the photos you've linked to so far as display photos if you want, would make it easier than digging them up when you want to talk about something in them.
-Andy |
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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That would be a good idea. Get everything into one thread. This one.
'Ive renamed the thread more appropriately.  |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, here's your photos so far:
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F1Racer Samba Member

Joined: November 30, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Gibraltar
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks bud.
I've updated the blog today too. Looking forward to the week ahead. It's where the planning and spending starts. |
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ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16788 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 8:24 am Post subject: |
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| glutamodo wrote: |
| The Haynes 1300-1500 book was pretty good for those. it's no longer in print though, they've combined all the old 12, 13, 15 and 1600 manuals into one and it's not near as detailed as the separate ones were. |
I was able to find one used. Search Amazon or half.com to see if you can find a copy. The ISBN# = 0 85696 494 8
I highly recommend this book as it is written specifically for the non-US versions of the Beetle. It includes many RHD diagrams.
EDIT: FYI... my Haynes mentions that the "F" case was used for the 1300 up until Aug '70 with a compression ratio of 7.3:1. After that the 1300 was built on the "AC" case from Sep '70 with the same compression ratio. But also the "AB" and "AR" cases were used for "higher compression" 1300 engines with a 7.5:1 compression ratio. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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glutamodo  The Android

Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26639 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:30 am Post subject: |
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I have that Haynes as well, but their little notes about the AB and AR engines are not very well done. Those engines were a bit different than just having more compression. They also had dual port heads! That's why I said the 1300SP lasted up through the end of model year 1970. (Actually in Brazil they made the 1300SP after that, but their engine was set up different down there - only 6.6:1 compression and SAE-Gross HP of 46 at 4000RPM )
-Andy |
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