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1915 build. Advice needed!
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:47 pm    Post subject: 1915 build. Advice needed! Reply with quote

Hey guys. Ya'll might have seen me around asking ignorant questions about different aspects of motors so i figured I would go ahead and start a thread for my own motor build Very Happy It will be a 1915 and it is going in a baja with a bus tranny. As of right now I just have a pile of parts and I still need to order more. I have surpassed my original budget but that's okay.

This is what I have now:
-AA 1915 rebuild kit (94 P&Cs, 69mm counterweighted crank, rods, gasket set, bearings, Maybe more but I can't remember off the top of my head)
-Dual Italian Weber 40s with crossbar linkage
-Engle FK41 cam
-Berg Hemi cut heads (cut for 94s) with stock size valves and high rev springs
-Alternator
-Coil (not sure what it is but it's German??)
-Bosch 009 Distributer
-Push rods and tubes
-Cooling tin

Still on the list:
-019 distributer (someone suggested this I think but I'm not sure what distributer would be best)
-Single HD valve springs (once again these were suggested but I'm not sure of the difference between these and the high rev)
-5lb pulley (why 5lb? It too was a suggestion)
-1700 clutch and disc (http://vwparts.aircooled.net/200mm-Kennedy-Engineering-Racing-Pressure-Plates-p/4090.htm)
-1.5 qt oil sump (a 3 qt deep one was suggested but I don't know what the real difference in performance would be)
-Oil pump with filter
-Valve covers (Right now I have some crappy ones that just leak. I was thinking about bolt on. Any suggestions?)
-I still need to get the case bored.
-And the eternally impending question of exhaust! I need something good for offroad and I also would like for it to accept heater boxes.

Also, what do I need to know about deck height and compression? And anything else important about building a motor!

Any advice or help about anything (parts, assembly, etc.) is greatly appreciated! And keep in mind that I do not want to spend too much more!
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll need a set of 1.4:1 ratio rockers to use with the FK-41 cam.
Personally, I'd use dual valve springs even though the 41 is a mild cam duration wise it does lift to 0.510". You'll need duals if you want decent life from the valve train. Singles won't cut it.
Get a good set of stock valve covers, unless you want to spend more cash on bolt ons.
Keep your deck height as tight as possible, with hemi heads I'd even go 0.040", even though there really is nothing for the piston to hit except at the far outer edge of the combustion chamber.
Watch out, all the hemi haterz will come out of the woodwork here.
What cc are your combustion chambers?
Do you know how to tune an engine with hemi heads? It normally requires more timing advance than conventional heads.
Forget the 5 lb pulley, your motor doesn't need it.
A 1.5 qt sump will be fine for this application.
I'd also forget the pump/filter combo and get the case full flowed when you get it bored. Use an o-ringed 26mm pump from RC Enterprises and a remote mount oil filter.
I was going to suggest a 12 lb flywheel if you are doing mostly street driving but if it's for mostly off road stay with the stock 16 lb flywheel.
My thoughts...so far.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure about the 1.4:1 rockers? The engle website says either works (i think) http://www.englecams.com/downloads/2010_engle_catalog.pdf and i already have the 1.25's!
So you think the dual valve springs over the high rev ones?
I'm not sure about the cc of the combustion chambers.
I don't really know a lot about tuning. Sorry i'm a noob!
What does it mean to get the case full flowed?
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions so far!
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fivelugshortaxle
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69bajaguy wrote:
Are you sure about the 1.4:1 rockers? The engle website says either works (i think) http://www.englecams.com/downloads/2010_engle_catalog.pdf and i already have the 1.25's!
So you think the dual valve springs over the high rev ones?
I'm not sure about the cc of the combustion chambers.
I don't really know a lot about tuning. Sorry i'm a noob!
What does it mean to get the case full flowed?
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions so far!


The 1.25's will work you just won't get all the lift and performance the cam was designed for.......those spin on filter pumps are not a good idea....some say they are fine, I say bullshit......full flowing the case involves drilling and tapping for a port to run an oil line to.....do a search and you'll see
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually with the stock size valves in your heads it's all academic, with 1.4's and 0.510" lift or 1.25's and 0.455" lift the heads (valves) will be a major restriction. Bad combo. Either get bigger valves or different cam.
You need to find out the chamber cc's in order to calculate your CR.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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RockCrusher
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.25's will work fine with the 41 cam but you still need dual springs. It IS a questionable choice for a cam with stock valves but will be a torque monster until you hit the flow limit.

Don't like the Hemi heads but hey, whatever, if you all ready own them. They work.

Of course I have to agree with the O-ring pump suggestion.... Laughing Laughing

RC
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well whatever you do, don't throw those lovely expensive parts in some bastard cut case machined w/ a drill press. Get it done right and blueprinted quality.

Cleanliness is key in the build so have the case jetwashed.

Do balancing. Well worth the money.

Goodluck on the build. Look forward to the details.
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a lot guys. What would ya'll suggest for valve size? And what do people not like about hemi heads?
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RockCrusher
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

69bajaguy wrote:
Thanks a lot guys. What would ya'll suggest for valve size? And what do people not like about hemi heads?
40 x 35.5 valves would be the best overall choice for you. Hemi heads have poor flame propagation characteristics and no "squish" or quench pads to assist in detonation suppression. They were a nice idea from a brilliant guy years ago for the changing gas quality on stocker type engines that were intended to last 100k miles but the idea is well past it's time and just won't die.

RC
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well darn. It looks like i'll be up-ing the valves! Any suggestions about the distributer? Is the 009 okay or should I get a 019?
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the amount of money you'll spend to get your old, inefficient heads reworked for larger valves, you'd probably be halfway to paying for a new set of heads with better chambers and larger valves already installed.

Of course then you might feel like you're wasting the potential of your new heads by running a stock stroke crank, so then it will be time for a stroker. And then H-beam rods. And B pistons. Then you'll need to get bigger carbs to match. Etc, etc, etc. Careful, its a slippery slope Laughing
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I disagree that there is anything wrong with hemi cut heads. VW heads have not changed in 40 years and there is no new technology. Too many people read a Chevy book and try to build a VW engine.

For your 1915cc if you keep the stock heads with single HD springs I would suggest changing to a Engle W-100 cam with your 1.25 rockers. If you have the money to upgrade to new heads I would suggest DRD 35.5x32 valve heads https://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/DRD-35.5X32mm-Performance-head.html to use with the FK-41 cam and 1.25 rockers. The 5 lbs pulley is always a good idea on any engine. It has proven to add life to the bearings when all the reciprocating parts have been balanced. The 1.5 qt sump is all you need on that size engine with a 5000 RPM range cams. The bolt on filter pump would also be fine for your small engine combo. Stock valve covers and bails is all you need. Don't go any larger then 1 1/2" exhaust.

As far as distributor, the Bosch 009 would work OK, but in my opinion the best choice with dual Webers that have ported vacuum would be an SVDA from aircooled.net.
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About how much might it cost to rework the heads and get new valves? And what would the difference in performance be if I just went with the W100 instead of doing the heads? The cam would be about $80 and I could also sell the other.
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC, what's your website?
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69bajaguy wrote:
RC, what's your website?


http://www.rcaircooledvw.com/ Wait for it! Very Happy
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just looking at breather boxes. How necessary are these if at all?
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Breather-Box-Kit-p/3043.htm
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth is right....site not up yet. Email or give a call.

RC
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69bajaguy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just looked at my case and it turns out that its an as-21 and the engine code is AJ051014. So i looked them up and apparently the as-21 cases are the strongest and the AJ's are between '75 and '79 so i guess that means it's dual relief? Good case?
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.
Yes.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The CB Performance filter pumps are fine. My family has used them for years and years without trouble. Papaw started using them practically from the moment they became available. The 2110 in Dad's drag Bug used one and it was run up to 8600 RPM many times. My 2276 runs one, Dad's 2386 has one, the 1600 SP in his DD has one.

I feel they are a great way to get a real oil filter if you don't want to go full flow. The main issue with them is that it may interfere with your header. Make sure before you buy.
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