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PirateBoB Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:12 pm Post subject: Ignition Switch Wiring |
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I looked all over the forums, but everyone is talking about a 4 wire ignition switch and how it is wired (for '72 +). I have a 69 bug. the local bug shop only had the 4 wire switch and i have 3 wires going to the switch. I spent a week working on it and triing to find some info here but i had to hot wire it.
There are 3 wires going to the ignition from the fuse box. where do these wires go on the switch? and where does the coil wire go to from the coil. i have it on a toggle switch right now. if you can just give me a straight forward wire diagram of the switch i should be able to figure it out. Also, what are the wires on the switch for? (constant power, power, ground?, i dunno)
Thank you for your time. |
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jamesdagg Samba Member

Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 3364 Location: B.C.Canada
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Your car does not have SU for the buzzer or X which is power that goes on with the key but off when cranking. More power to the starter if the lights go off when cranking.
jim _________________ '72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available |
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ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16573 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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The '69 ignition switch (electrical) is rather simple. It should've originally had three wires (Red+Red/Blk+Blk).
The thick Red wire (#30) is the 12v constant source coming from the fuse block via the headlight switch. The thick Red/Blk (#50) is the output to the starter. The Blk (#15) is the output to the ignition circuit at the fuse block. From there it goes to the coil. Check out the wiring diagram for your year here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bug_6869.jpg
Your switch may look something like this:
http://www.eisparts.com/311905865A.html
Don't be surprised if your replacement part has more wires than the original. The above switch looks like it comes w/ an extra Grey wire (maybe a key sensor for the door buzzer?).
Hope that helps. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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jamesdagg Samba Member

Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 3364 Location: B.C.Canada
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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Yes the gray wire is for the buzzer but you can use it, with a relay, to create an accessory position so you can listen to your stereo with the engine off and have it go off only when you pull the key out.
I posted a diagram how to do this. Very easy.
jim _________________ '72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available |
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Gary Person of Interest
Joined: November 01, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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jamesdagg wrote: |
Yes the gray wire is for the buzzer but you can use it, with a relay, to create an accessory position so you can listen to your stereo with the engine off and have it go off only when you pull the key out.
I posted a diagram how to do this. Very easy.
jim |
Is that the one above, or is the diagram in reference someplace else? _________________ West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) |
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PirateBoB Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:27 am Post subject: yes |
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yes it is. thank you very much for the info. i really hated having to hot wire the car, it pisses me off everytime i get in. because everything else is tits in it.
aight, so looking at the fuse block with the hood popped, i see the wires attaching to it, some from the top and some from the bottom. the Black (#15) from the ignition switch conects to the TOP(?) of the fuse block?
I think i got a good understanding of the rest. I amy need more coffee. i dunno.
Thanks for your help guys. |
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jamesdagg Samba Member

Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 3364 Location: B.C.Canada
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Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:42 am Post subject: |
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I always forget whether it's top or bottom but it's easy to tell. The hot unfused side has several of the connectors "twinned". The fused or downstream side has none twinned.
If you are using an inline fuse attach to the hot unfused side, either with the heavy red wires (always hot) or the black (hot with key) wires.
Here is how to use the gray wire for accessories.(sorry about the pic quality, I don't know how to make it better)
jim _________________ '72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available |
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runamoc  Samba Member

Joined: June 19, 2006 Posts: 6138 Location: 37.5N 77.1W
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Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 6:31 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
The thick Red wire (#30) is the 12v constant source coming from the fuse block via the headlight switch |
#30 is an un-fused hot wire that comes almost directly from the battery!
Also while looking at the link for the wiring I noticed that the filiments in the sealed beam headlight are wrong.  |
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rjwblue1 Samba Member
Joined: July 04, 2008 Posts: 2 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 2:16 pm Post subject: VW Ignition Switch |
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On my 71 Ghia I have 4 wires from the switch to the fuse box but I would like to use a replacement switch that has 6 wires... Will that work? |
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runamoc  Samba Member

Joined: June 19, 2006 Posts: 6138 Location: 37.5N 77.1W
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:12 am Post subject: |
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You really only need 3 wires. Hot, on, start. |
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rjwblue1 Samba Member
Joined: July 04, 2008 Posts: 2 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:27 am Post subject: |
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runamoc wrote: |
You really only need 3 wires. Hot, on, start. |
Thanks for the info. I thought I needed a new ignition switch but I found yesterday that if I move the fuse box around a bit a connection of some sort was made and I am now (at least temporarily) able to start her with the switch. Maybe it wasn't grounded properly ????? I think I am going to buy a new fuse box and work the issue that way. |
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