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Ok what gives? Engine locked up
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: Ok what gives? Engine locked up Reply with quote

So my dad drove his 72 to a local car show 2 weeks ago. He made it there and back no problems. When he got home it was running great like always, he pulled into the garage and shut it off. Last week he rolled it out, and tried to start it. The solenoid just kicked and nothing. So we pulled the starter, found a faulty/intermittent solenoid and replaced.We also made sure the battey was fully charged. Same deal. Today I installed an autostick shift starter we had bought for it a while back, and no change. So after checking all the wiring/grounds and battery connections, I pulled his pulley guard and put a wrench on the pulley nut. That sucker is locked up tight! Pulled the valve covers and everything is tight and clean. So wtf would make a good engine just lock up after sitting almost a week? Oil pressure and everything was good when he drove it home and parked it. I did pull the plugs to see if it would help or mabie was hydro locked (we have been smelling some gas). No difference.
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mharney
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's messed up.

- in gear
- obstruction in bellhousing
- pulley welded to case
- distributor drive damage (rotating while distributor is out)
- starter now jammed on flywheel gear
- water got in and froze rings
- damage from excessive endplay
- obstruction in cylinder

Put it in gear and roll it backwards a little to see if you can back it up and free it.. if you can then carefully rotate it back forward and see if you can tell where it locks up.. what is the pulley position?
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is not in gear, and unless something in the trans broke and is jammed thats not it. I may try removing the started again and see if something frees up. endplay is tight, motor has mabie 100-150 miles on it. I did take a long ass crescent wrench and put it on it. I got it to turn but it is extremely tight. I guess we will have to drop it if I can't find anything and see whats up.
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Bill271
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Youve seized a main bearing, prob the snout or the thrust if theres no end play DONT TURN IT ANYMORE you will destroy tthe dowel holes
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The Noof
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put money on thrust bearing seizure.
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Bill271
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

50/50 illtake that bet Very Happy Very Happy
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Terry Cloyd
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would pull the plugs and remove the gen belt. Use a 12" crescent wrench on the front pully and see if you can turn the motor over. Make sure your not in gear.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont get how it seized juast sitting though, like I said he drove it in, turned it off, and now its locked up. We did seize the #1 just after rebuild due to a plugged oil gallery, but that stopped the motor dead on the run stand, and after we re-cleaned everything, all has been well.
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VSarge
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually that means it was about to seize when he parked it. Been there, done it, got the t-shirt and used it for an oil rag.

Sarge
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you install a new pulley on the motor? If so check if it seized onto the case!
Do you start the car with the clutch pressed in? If so that will starve the thrust shims of oil during start up and can cause the rear main to seize.
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gilbequick
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A.J.Sims wrote:
Do you start the car with the clutch pressed in? If so that will starve the thrust shims of oil during start up and can cause the rear main to seize.


I don't think I've ever started a manual shift car without the clutch pressed in. Does anyone else NOT press the clutch in when starting??
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hpw
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gilbequick wrote:
A.J.Sims wrote:
Do you start the car with the clutch pressed in? If so that will starve the thrust shims of oil during start up and can cause the rear main to seize.


I don't think I've ever started a manual shift car without the clutch pressed in. Does anyone else NOT press the clutch in when starting??


I was going to ask the same thing, never heard of that.....
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boleador
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hpw wrote:
gilbequick wrote:
A.J.Sims wrote:
Do you start the car with the clutch pressed in? If so that will starve the thrust shims of oil during start up and can cause the rear main to seize.


I don't think I've ever started a manual shift car without the clutch pressed in. Does anyone else NOT press the clutch in when starting??


I was going to ask the same thing, never heard of that.....


Owners manual says use clutch when car is cold.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/8_70ghia/28.jpg
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you’re told to do it so it must be OK? That’s one way!!! Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was taught tho push the clutch pedal down when starting the car, a precaution in case it was in gear.

so it pushes the whole crank back, thus cutting oil flow?
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bingo!!! Nothing like a “performance” stage 1 or 2 pressure plate applying over 170 to 250lbs of force to your one and only thrust bearing. Now that stock p/p was applying less than 90lb’s but most of us have a stage 1 or 2 and some a stage 3 P/P on our combos. I know that when you have a Toyota or other new cars with a stick you must depress the clutch pedal in order to start the thing but not you’re VW! Now I’m not saying this is the problem but it’s a good habit to brake, mostly on new motors that do not have that many miles on them.
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Iowa Mark
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull your plugs and check for hydrolock. Oil smell like gas?
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iowa Mark wrote:
Pull your plugs and check for hydrolock. Oil smell like gas?


+1
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugninva wrote:
Iowa Mark wrote:
Pull your plugs and check for hydrolock. Oil smell like gas?


+1


+2 Zactly what I was thinking. Carb dribbling a bunch of fuel in past an open intake wil lock that thing up tighter than a cat's butt.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A.J.Sims wrote:
Bingo!!! Nothing like a “performance” stage 1 or 2 pressure plate applying over 170 to 250lbs of force to your one and only thrust bearing. Now that stock p/p was applying less than 90lb’s but most of us have a stage 1 or 2 and some a stage 3 P/P on our combos. I know that when you have a Toyota or other new cars with a stick you must depress the clutch pedal in order to start the thing but not you’re VW! Now I’m not saying this is the problem but it’s a good habit to brake, mostly on new motors that do not have that many miles on them.

I remember this being a prob on modded miatas also. I try to remember to put it in neutral and then start it without clutch.
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