using masterseries...grinder or media blast prep?

[brotha bran]

I've already got an email into Chuck but I figure I'll put out a thread here and see what people say from their experience.

I am planning on painting the engine compartment and underside of my bus with Masterseries for added protection. I know they recommend media blasting the metal, but I am fearful of the media getting hidden/trapped in all the nooks and crannies of my bus and trapping moisture later in life.

Is it just fine to use my grinder and wire wheel or stripping disc to bring it to bare metal before using masterseries? It'll be mostly old metal (with some surface rust), but a few new panels which have been welded in (battery tray, jack points).
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1976 Transporter "Betsy" [Reef Blue, Rebuilt 2L w/ Raby CS heads, 010 Auto. ]
1968 Single Cab "Neptune" [Neptune Blue, stock, stock, stock]

[johneliot]

Worked fine for me. I used a wire wheel on the whole interior of my 69, then painted with two coats of MS.

_________________
John

There is no distinctly American criminal class - except Congress.
Mark Twain

69 bug - "The Grey Ghost"

[brotha bran]

Exactly what I was hoping to hear and see. Thanks John. Did you use anything in between steps...like phosphoric acid or metal clean or anything?
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1976 Transporter "Betsy" [Reef Blue, Rebuilt 2L w/ Raby CS heads, 010 Auto. ]
1968 Single Cab "Neptune" [Neptune Blue, stock, stock, stock]

[Vinnems]

John, glad you posted those pics again. I was wondering, did you use Masterseries on the entire car? How much of it did you use, and did you think it was worth it?

[brotha bran]

Chuck emailed me this morning (he's very quick to respond, highly recommend dealing with him) and confirmed that this will be fine as long as I don't get the metal too smooth/shiny.
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1976 Transporter "Betsy" [Reef Blue, Rebuilt 2L w/ Raby CS heads, 010 Auto. ]
1968 Single Cab "Neptune" [Neptune Blue, stock, stock, stock]

[Mike Fisher]

Don't forget the phosphoric acid (rust killer) before the epoxy primer!
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[Miss Bea and Me]

[hpw]

[Vinnems]

ANd from personal experience, I'd say save your self some time and get some chemical paint stripper. I was gung ho about wire wheeling the entire car, until I found that the paint doesn't just come right off. Bought a can of Klean Strip something or other (they have a bunch. Go with max strength) from Wal Mart, brushed the entire pan and body with it (like it was paint), left it for a day or two, vacuumed most of it off the car, then wire wheeled the bad rusted spots and caked bondo spots.
One can of stripper, cost maybe $5, saved me at least 100+ hours of wire wheeling. Even worked on removing the under coating stuff in the wheel wells, which no wire wheel or sand paper could touch without tearing or gumming up and making a bigger mess.

[beetlenut]

Do you have to get the surface down to bare metal to use the Masterseries stuff? For example, new floor pans with the Ecoating. Or original paint on the interior that's not peeling or rusted and in good shape? I'm getting ready to do the interior rear of my super after a lot of repair work, but some areas are fine with original paint, but I want to put down Masterseries over the whole area.

[brotha bran]

I realize you want to leave some tooth to the metal. I'd love to blast but I just don't think I want to mess with potentially getting media stuck in every little nook of this bus.

I thought of stripping with chemicals too in some spots, but the residue that will leave worries me a bit too much.
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1976 Transporter "Betsy" [Reef Blue, Rebuilt 2L w/ Raby CS heads, 010 Auto. ]
1968 Single Cab "Neptune" [Neptune Blue, stock, stock, stock]

[Grandemadaca]

I wire-wheeled all the new metal to take off that thin layer of protective paint, then hit it all with some metal etch before I applied the MS.
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-Cam

"A duplicate of the Volkswagen, but somewhat larger, probably would sell well in the U.S."
-Popular Mechanics, March 1952

[marklaken]

Masterseries, like all paints, it's all in the prep. Get rid of all loose rust, loose paint, all oil, all undercoat, all dirt. use wirewheel, or sandblaster or any other tool. Make sure your surface has tooth. Scuff sand old paint and solid rust, degrease, then apply masterseries per instructions.

Always sand off the protective paint on replacement metal panels before priming.

Sandblasting is more trouble than it's worth in my experience as a do it yourselfer.
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Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO