Barn Fresh 57

[cory464]

i don't like to use single stage urethane. if you get it perfect, its great, but if you get a run, dirt etc it in it, it is more difficult to get out as you risk burning through the color. also, much easier to buff out clear for the same reasons. much easier to get a better finish with base/clear. just my opinion

[flyertim]

[flyertim]

not many photos, lots of reading in this update folks.

i mentioned in a previous post that i was having problems matching up L75 light beige, which is the correct color of various interior components for 56-57 beetles.

searching through several threads in the oval forum (as well as the body and paint forum), it appears many people are satisfied with the color made by wolfsburg west (available in a spray can) as a perfect match.

so…i bought a can.

i sprayed a test sample on a piece of scrap metal to:

1) see if it matched my interior parts and

2) to use as a canvas to have better urethane enamel mixed (i never liked using spray cans for painting…i feel as though i have better control with a spray gun or an airbrush. also, most spray cans have more fillers than pigment).

i felt like i had two good samples of the original L75 in my car. first, i personally removed the upholstery on the rear seat. the seat frame is painted L75 and still looked glossy and new in several spots. the second place i found shiny paint was under the turn signal housing on the steering column. when i held the steering column up to the seat frame, the colors matched perfectly…both indoors and in direct sunlight.

before going any further, maybe i should mention that i have an art background. i like to paint portraits and figures in oils. i also mentioned in this thread a while back that my father painted cars for a living…so i’ve been mixing colors all my life! therefore, if you can’t see or understand what i’m talking about when you view the photos i’ll post here, you’ll just have to take my word for it. (not to insult anybody, but sometimes when i try to teach mixing colors and such, most people either “get it” or they don’t.) also, depending on your monitor settings, it may be difficult to see the color differences.

and…if you haven’t figured it out by now, i’m pretty anal . i figure there’s only one way to do things, and that’s the right way.
_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

right then…i held the wolfsburg west test sample up to the seat frame (i buffed a small area by hand). it didn’t seem to match. the value (the relative lightness or darkness of a color) seemed okay, but it looked a little too “yellow.” the seat frame looked like it had more “red” in it as compared to the test sample…a more “fleshy” color.

here’s a photo out in direct sunlight…hopefully you can see the difference:

the photo below was taken indoors without flash under mercury vapor lights (hanging in the shop where i work).

the test sample looks more “green” (probably due to the lights) and more subdued/grey than the seat frame but it still looks more “red” than the sample.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

if you remember, i recently had the steering wheel restored by koch’s. i specified that i wanted it painted to the original L75.

i compared the steering column (the section that was hidden under the turn signal housing) to the freshly restored steering wheel.

(note…this was taken in direct sunlight.)

the steering wheel looks like it has more “green” in it. i still see more “red” in the original L75. however, the value looks pretty good.

since the steering wheel was already finished, i decided i should match the paint to it even though it wouldn’t be exactly correct.

when i was taking this picture, i noticed there was a run in the paint which will need to get taken care of. also, i noticed a nick in the new horn button. more on this later…
_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

the photo below shows the result of several trips to the paint jobber (and several weeks) with several tries at getting a satisfactory match of L75.

let me explain the sequence of events for this .

the piece of metal in the photo is the same piece shown earlier that was painted with wolfsburg west’s spray can (hereafter referred to as the “test sample”).

my paint jobber found the formula on the computer for L75. (by the way, as mentioned to LT in a previous post, i’m using basf’s UNO-HD line of paint).

this was mixed and a stroke of paint was applied to the test sample as shown above the red arrow. basf is a german company and i didn’t know they had crack over there because it’s obviously much too light in value. i have no idea what they were trying to match.

so, i left the test sample with the jobber with instructions to match it. at the time i was still under the impression that wolfsburg west’s color was considered correct. the result can be seen above the white arrow.

i compared this color to the steering column, the seat frame and the steering wheel. as mentioned earlier, i felt it was too “yellow” when compared to the steering column and the seat frame. when i compared it to the steering wheel, which i felt was too “green”, the color difference bothered me so much that i decided not to use it.

i also reasoned that since the steering wheel was already finished that i should probably match that color.

so…back to the paint jobber. i had him match the steering wheel and the result is shown by the blue arrow in the photo above. you should be able to see the difference…a slightly darker value and definitely “green” which really bothered me.

while i was playing with this color, i noticed the run in the steering wheel and the chip in the horn button. i called koch’s to see if it would be okay if i wet-sanded and buffed it myself…if they would replace the button. they told me not to bother (they guarantee their work as long as i own the car). i shouldn’t touch it…they will take care of it and i should send it back.

as i boxed up the steering wheel, i became more bothered by the color not matching. i called koch’s again to see if they would repaint the steering wheel a different color if i provided the paint. i talked to teresa who said it wasn’t a problem, but they would prefer a paint sample since they use ppg paint. i was transferred to the head of the steering wheel department (his name escapes me at the moment) who also said he prefers a sample, not the paint. he said he will match anything i provide.

so…back to the paint jobber yet again. this time i took the seat frame and the steering column. the result of this trip is shown by the green arrow in the photo above. the value matches the wolfsburg west sample but there’s a little more “red” in it.

i’m quite satisfied with this color and it’s what i’ll use.

here’s another photo of the test sample under indoor lighting just for comparison.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

here’s a few pictures of the steering column.

i painted dabs of the different colors next to the original color, then took pictures in direct sunlight.

first up is wolfsburg west’s color (white arrow). it’s more “yellow” to me than the column.

rotating the column a bit...next is koch’s color match (white arrow)…too “green”.

finally, we have the color i will be using (no arrow):

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

here’s the three formulas i have for L75 light beige. once again, this is for basf’s UNO-HD single stage urethane.

wolfsburg west spray can match:

SC01…………………..44.80 (base)
SC77…………………..4.80 (iron red)
SC25…………………..34.00 (carbon black)
SC10…………………..70.90 (mixing clear)
SC67…………………..146.60 (iron yellow)
SC90…………………..248.00 (white)

note: makes 1 pint

koch’s steering wheel match:

SC01…………………..44.80 (base)
SC77…………………..9.50 (iron red)
SC25…………………..51.60 (carbon black)
SC10…………………..70.90 (mixing clear)
SC67…………………..108.80 (iron yellow)
SC56…………………..4.00 (yellow shade phthalo green)
SC90…………………..328.00 (white)

note: makes just over 1 pint

rear seat frame & steering column match:

SC01…………………...44.80 (base)
SC77…………………...28.70 (iron red)
SC20…………………...47.00 (lamp black)
SC10…………………...70.90 (mixing clear)
SC67…………………...100.80 (iron yellow)
SC65…………………...12.70 (red chrome yellow)
SC90…………………...299.50 (white)

note: makes just over 1 pint

this last formula is what i will use for my restoration and what i believe to be close enough for L75.

i hope this information is useful. i will make sure the steering wheel matches my paint and begin to restore some interior parts in the near future.
_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[sunroof]

That's great information. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

I have a Reseda Green '59 that I would like to restore with the same kind of attention you're giving your car. In the interests of getting the colour right, I looked for spots on the car that were protected from the environment. I took out the ashtray, thinking the dash would be right and compared it to paint from under the turn signals, to the inside of the glove box and under the license light. They were all more or less the same but also all different. Ah well, I suppose I will use the ashtray, at this point it is hit and miss.

Don

[tyzel]

WOW!!!! I just went through this whole thread over the last couple days, and WOW, amazing work going on with this car. I cant wait to see this oval finished. Great job Tim!

[thebucket]

Tim I think there is a nice market for this! Wolf1 sells on for the rear clip. But not for the front. I'd buy a pair if that helps!

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ITMC-El Presidente
OG 55 bullet 3 fold....
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=150858&highlight=thebuckets++++fold

[Schwing]

Awesome eye for detail! I love how much time you spent deciding on paint color. I used Krylon Almond and I noticed it didn't have enough "brown" or "grey" to it but at the end of the day it's a close match to the Bakelite ivory accents if anyone is looking for a cheaper alternative.

Well done Tim!
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Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=

Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[flyertim]

here’s another distraction from rust repair…

i recently purchased reproduction pop-out windows from koch’s. these are the later style with the ribbed trim for late ovals and early big-window beetles.

unfortunately, they did not include installation instructions. i didn’t find much help after searching through thesamba’s forums. so, i guess i will have to figure it out myself.

it’s a good thing this is me:


Link

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

so…what’s in the box?

first there’s the windows, which are preassembled with the rubber molding and chrome trim.

continuing clockwise in the photo below, also included are two threaded retaining strips, a bag of hardware, two latches (left and right), two plastic covers and two u-channel gaskets.

etched into the glass is a “sekurit” logo. I was relieved it didn’t say “koch’s” or some other incorrect manufacturer...i.e., i hear eis puts their name on their windshields.

unlike the earlier pop-out windows (which have a piano hinge along the front edge), these have an “s” shaped aluminum hinge.

looking from the top, i placed the threaded retaining strip next to the hinge…

…which slides into the hinge as shown below. the blue arrow points to the retaining strip.

red arrow points to the gap in the hinge which slides onto the flange of the window opening.

here’s another picture. the red arrow points to the gap in the hinge mentioned previously and the green arrow points to the flange of the window opening. this is where the outer quarter panel and the inner quarter panel are spot-welded together at the factory.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

i removed the hinge from the window…

…then i measured the distance between the outer edges of the chrome molding. looking at the bottom edge, i get 12 ½” (red arrow).

i wanted to see if the split in the molding was halfway between the outer edges (or, if the hinge is centered on the window). it isn’t…the split is at 6 ⅛” (white arrow)…not 6 ¼”.

so, the hinge is ⅛” from center, with the upper portion being shorter than the lower.

i taped masking paper into the window opening and traced the edge of the flange.

then i removed the paper and folded it in half…which gave me a centerline (red arrow).

i marked a parallel line ⅛” above this line (blue arrow) to locate the center of the aluminum hinge. the green arrow points to the mark i made on the flange.

here’s a view from the inside of the hinge placed on the flange.

makes sense?

the red arrows in the photo below point to the marks i made locating the holes i need to drill into the flange.

also notice that the window is placed into the opening. i double-checked everything to ensure the window fit into the opening and the hinge lined up with the threaded holes in the chrome trim.

getting the window to fit in the opening was a major pain in the butt. i smeared soapy water onto the gasket and carefully (hoping i wouldn’t break the glass) pushed it in place.

the gasket wants to fight you every step of the way. the front edge was the most difficult.

i wound up using a dull screwdriver (so i didn’t tear the gasket) to help coax the gasket to flare out.

i started at the top…

…slid the screwdriver around the front…

…and down towards the bottom.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

i measured the diameter of the screws from the retaining strip (which are 4mm x 070 thread). they are about .1575" in diameter, so i used a #21 drill bit (∅.1590”).

after i was satisfied the hinge was in the proper location, i drilled the holes i marked earlier into the flange.

i installed the retaining strip…elongating a few holes as necessary to ensure all the screws seated properly without binding.

a view of the screws from the inside…

then i installed the hinge to make sure everything fit.

i removed the hinge from the car and reinstalled it onto the window. then i slid the hinge onto the flange using a screwdriver to coax the gasket along the front edge as shown before.

when the holes in the hinge aligned with the holes in the flange, i taped the window onto the car with duct tape…(it would be better to have a friend, spouse, or those of you with alternative lifestyles, a significant other, hold the window in place).

then i installed the threaded strip onto the hinge to secure the window in place. this was really a bitch to install…those of you with three arms may find it a breeze. you have to hold the threaded strip into position, place/hold a screw into one of the holes and use the screwdriver to drive it home.

after the first one, the others aren’t so bad.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

the next thing to do is install the small bracket onto the aft end of the window. two 4mm x 070 countersunk screws secure it into position.

the latch is already assembled…just screw the one end onto the previously installed bracket.

note: there is a left and right latch…make sure you install the correct one…although, it’s hard to mix them up.

i pushed the window into the opening as far as it would go.

after taping the window in place, i folded up the latch and let it rest onto the inside of the quarter panel…i just let it sit where it naturally wanted to go. then i held it in position with tape.

i carefully opened and closed the window a few times to double-check that the latch was in the proper location.

then i marked the place i wanted to drill a hole (red arrow).

the sheet metal screws needed to secure the bracket to the quarter panel are not included in the kit.

so, i went to the hardware store to buy some self-tapping stainless steel sheet-metal screws. (say that three times fast).

i’m not sure what size screws i bought…i forgot to write it down. but, i measured the inside diameter of the screw which was about .098 in diameter, so i used a #40 drill bit to drill the hole.

then i installed a screw to cut the threads.

i installed the latch...

…then, after testing the window to ensure it opened and closed okay, i drilled and installed the other three screws.

here’s a picture of the window opened and the latch extended.

the latch closed:

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

here’s a close-up of the cross-section of the gasket that was included with the kit. this covers the flange of the window opening.

starting at the bottom end of the hinge, i pressed the gasket onto the flange all around the window opening. as you can see, there’s plenty of material included with the kit.

another picture of the gasket installed…

i placed masking tape on the gasket to locate the top of the hinge. the red arrow points to the lower edge of the tape which is the trim line.

using wire cutters, i cut the gasket and pressed it back onto the flange as shown below.

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

next we need to remove the two screws as shown by the red arrows in the photo below.

the plastic cover is installed using two countersunk 4mm x 070 thread x 12mm long screws which were not included in the kit. stainless steel screws were available at the hardware store.

after playing with the windows, i couldn’t figure out the purpose of the set screw in the ivory knob (red arrow). if i screwed it all the way in, it locks the knob onto the shaft which prevents the knob from being turned…so you can’t open and close the window. is it a security thing?

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883

[flyertim]

the finished installation...

another view…

_________________
"Broadsword calling Dannyboy"

my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883