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Dcoe 40 weber non turbo Specs ( Update) It's here
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:02 am    Post subject: Dcoe 40 weber non turbo Specs ( Update) It's here Reply with quote

Any body ever run one of these or know if they work good. I want to run this on a non turbo 1600 dp engine (stock). Are there rebuild kit avalable for them.
the carb was used for a turbo what will need to changed for non turbo
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Last edited by Hot Air on Tue May 22, 2012 8:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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esde
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that not the manifold that is on the classifieds? Anyway, yes rebuild kits are available. I've driven them on lots of cars, just not aircooled vw's, they are easy to work on. Your jets are under the round cap. I suppose you'll have the same issues as any center mount 2 barrel, plus the fact that your lids probably won't close.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No manifold heat means drivability will not be the best. If you could fab up some kind of stove pipe to get heat up near the carb, and get it to function well, that would be a kind of cool setup. Probably be really great with a Dellorto 40DHLA carb.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it is the one in the classifieds, I just bought it. It will be going on my dune buggy.
As for the heat tubes I thought about that also. I will try to fab something up .
he said it was on a turbo setup. do I need to chang anything with the carb to run it on a non turbo motor.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe, maybe not. When you get the DCOE let us know what jets, emulsion tubes and venturis are in it.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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TomSimon
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the PO says the carb was originally on a turbo set up:

Pay special attention to the emulsion tubes... It's a little known fact that KRE is know for using one regular e-tube on one barrel, then one custom modified e-tube on the other barrel on their 'turbo prepped' side draft carbs. The one I came across was a side draft Delorto I was dyno tuning for a friend. Unlike your manifold, those set ups use a 2-1 plenum-type manifold on the turbo intake side, the custom e-tube they use helps tune out a flat spot at the transition. As far as I know, Dave and Judy innovated that back in the late 70's.

Easy to spot, take both e-tubes out and examine both e-tube's external taper profile. If one taper is long a skinny compare tot he other, it's a Kawell turbo prepped carb, and you'll need to change some things before running it on that manifold.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea Stupid question here.

How does a person run a 40 DCOE SIDE DRAFT carb on a vertical intake manifold?....suppose a weld job could solve that issue.

I have the same carb on my 1776cc Turbo engine thats over 20 ys running.
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at that manifold again.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, you're right, the manifold was welded the wrong way! The carb will interfere with the fan shroud. Shocked
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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66brm
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May have to fit a 911 shroud
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could still blow through it with a T3 or something.
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

why do you say it is facing the wrong way, now I am confused. OH SH#* I hope this will work.
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea The manifold is facing outwards for the sidedraft but still needs the piece for the oil cooling to the Turbo connection.

Three pieces....Carb....center section for the oil to go thru...Turbo itself.

Center section needs hot oil or will ice up and sweat.
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had one of these setups on my 1600+ DP Beetle back in '81. Big jump in top end power for autocrossing, but I never really got it jetted right for bottom end. I didn't worry about heating the runners. It was summer in central Texas. It looked kind of dumb on my Beetle with the deck lid off, but it should look good on a dune buggy. DCOEs are great carbs. I used to put quite a few of them on old MGs, Triumphs and Datson Z-cars to replace emission Strombergs. Every bit as tunable as IDFs and the jets are easy to get to.
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pandion, Glad to hear someone else used one. I cant wait for it to come in. I will have to get it cleaned up and re chromed. Summer use only so no heat tubes. I will need to get staks for it any certain size ? what type stacks fit it ?
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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the manifold and carb bolt together. I have a car craft manifold that runs oil through it and it bolts to the carb and it's welded to the turbo or you have to run a hose and clamp to connect to the turbo. This manifold is designed for the carb to bolt directly to it. You could build a spacer of some sort and run oil beneath it to warm it.
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
Pandion, Glad to hear someone else used one. I cant wait for it to come in. I will have to get it cleaned up and re chromed. Summer use only so no heat tubes. I will need to get staks for it any certain size ? what type stacks fit it ?


Sorry, all I remember is a K&N type filter, not what was under it.
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I got it . It is a 40 DCOE-18 weber Itialian made.
Specs:
Main Jets: 120
Air corrector jets: 195
idel jets: 50F13
Pump jet 50
Emulsion tubes: F11
venturis: 30mm

What sould I cange to get it to run on a stock 1600 motor (all new mexican motor )
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot Air wrote:
OK I got it . It is a 40 DCOE-18 weber Itialian made.
Specs:
Main Jets: 120 (130 - 140)
Air corrector jets: 195 (180)
idel jets: 50F13 (55 - 60)
Pump jet 50
Emulsion tubes: F11 (F7 is better I think)
venturis: 30mm (28mm)

What sould I cange to get it to run on a stock 1600 motor (all new mexican motor )


Those would be my guesses to get you close but I'm no expert on single carbs let alone unusual single side draft carb setups like yours. Others will come up with better advice no doubt.

I believe a problem you might encounter, and a reason why this type of setup wasn't real popular, is because a side draft carb is supposed to be mounted perpendicular to the direction the car is going. This means the float is less affected by stop and go motion or hard acceleration and braking. You might be able to get around this by using a ball type inlet valve instead of a needle type. This limits the float travel and controls fuel levels in the float bowl and jet wells better.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Hot Air
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What stacks will fit this . do I have to look for 40 weber or will other stacks fit.
I will post some pic tomorrow.
Also if anybody knows what would be a good size for a stock motor.
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