Mallory CDI - good thing

[furbo]

Finally, with much help from various folks, got the Mallory Hyfire 6A to work with a 79 FI bus. Was worth the wait, would recommend it heartily. Better acceleration, especially when cold.

TJ
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79 Westy
70 Ghia Vert
95 Mex Beetle
Eccl 9:10

[USMCbug]

I too have a 79 FI. One question. What the hell is this? Mallory CDI?
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72 Super Beetle
73 Standard Beetle
79 Baywindow Bus
65 Split Window Bus
79 Baywindow Bus
71 Super Beetle (current)

"When war does come, my advice is to draw the sword and throw away the
scabbard."
- General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson

[ratwell]

An aftermarket Capacitive Discharge Ignition system for a stronger spark. See Mallory's website.

These boxes aren't VW specific and it's fairly simple to wire in. With today's gas prices you'll recover the cost of installing it after several thousand miles.

You'll need:

- Mallory Hyfire 6A or equivalent ($120)

This is the mpu with the fast charging capacitor that hits the coil with 520V instead of 12V. It sends out multiple sparks up to 3,300 rpm for 22 degrees of crankshaft rotation. At idle this is about 4 extra sparks, then 3 etc, and after the cut-off there is only time to send one spark because the capacitor takes about 1ms to recharge.

- rotor with zero resistance ($20)

Bosch rotors normally have a 5kohm resistor inside. The increased energy output from the Hyfire will burn out this rotor so it has to be replaced.

- low resistance mag wound plug wires < 300 ohm/ft ($40)

This is Mallory's recommendation. The original Bosch set uses stranded wiring with damping resistors at each end (5kohm in the rotor, several kohm in the coil wire and 1-1.4kohm damping resistors in the plug connectors). This is a design of German wiring sets that exists to this day. The high resistance is there is limit EMI and RFI which would make the radio crackle and the upset the electronics in the ECU.

Other plug wires use either high resistance supression (carbon core) wire or low resistance mag wound wire sets. The later provides the necessary suppression of unwanted signals while permitting the full energy of the CDI to reach the spark plug. Resistance limits current, remember: the other wires would burn up.

A 4th kind of wire, solid (race wires) have no suppression capability and would freak out the ECU. They are also illegal to use on a street vehicle as per FCC.

- plugs regapped to 0.045 ($8)

You must do this to realize the increased mileage.

- "hotter" coil that Bosch blue coil ($40)

I'm sure someone is running their CDI with a Bosch coil but this coil wasn't designed to be used with CDI. Mallory sells several $60 coils that are matched for Hyfire use.

- choke (tach adapter) if you have FI ($40)

The ECU won't fire the injectors without this overpriced $5 to make item.

So, $268 and some rewiring later and you'll have better gas mileage, smoother idle, better acceleration, etc etc.

They are pretty reliable from various reports but if you want to keep the old ignition wired in as a backup do it like this:

If you break down you'll have to replace the plugs or regap them back to 0.028.
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'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[westy78]

[USMCbug]

Very interesting.
Maybe that'll go on the to do list after it dwindles a tad....
_________________
72 Super Beetle
73 Standard Beetle
79 Baywindow Bus
65 Split Window Bus
79 Baywindow Bus
71 Super Beetle (current)

"When war does come, my advice is to draw the sword and throw away the
scabbard."
- General Thomas "Stonewall" Jackson

[ratwell]

Anyone considering the Hyfire 6a should look into the Hyfire EZ. This is new for 2005 and you can order it right now even though many online vendors don't list it.

I believe it's $194 and includes Mallory's 30440 coil. The beauty of this version is that the wiring is greatly simplified over the 6a:

stock coil -> Hyfire EZ -> 30440 coil -> distributor cap

Basically instead of all that complicated wiring the new model interposes itself in between the stock coil and the distributor using two HEI style ignition wires that come in the kit. It uses the stock coil to figure out when to fire the initial spark but sends the spark from the hot coil. To revert back to conventional ignition you simply need to replace the stock coil wire and attach it directly to the distributor.

I wonder if ACN even knows about this model yet...

I'm not 100% positive but I believe you don't need to buy the $40 choke to drive the FI with this model.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[furbo]

Pray tell, where does one get a non-resistant rotor?
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79 Westy
70 Ghia Vert
95 Mex Beetle
Eccl 9:10

[1FUNBUG]

Is there any reason why this setup wouldn't work on a '79 with an automatic transmission?

[mightyart]

I had heard that it is not a good idea to use hotter ignition parts on this engine?
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My Art:
http://www.instagram.com/flynn8552/

[westy78]

[Bob D.]

Richard, do you have a link for a vendor selling the EZ? I can only find it listed in one of Mallory's newest catalogs, not for sale anywhere. And what is the difference between the two models of EZ--just that one has an adjustable rev limiting feature?

If using the EZ, you still need new wires, rotor and regapped plugs, correct?

I put an MSD (similar) system on a 914-6 I had and the improvement was unbelievable. *But,* that car had dual Weber IDAs, not FI. My bus has a Pertronix, but is otherwise all stock and currently runs fine.

I wonder how much difference the EZ system would make compared to a factory ignition system in good working order? Would I still get noticeable improvements in power and mileage? furbo, how was your bus running before the CDI install?
_________________
1978 7-Passenger, 37K miles
Proud Member #1, SBS (Stock Bus Society)

*Enjoy and appreciate your good health*

We used to play for silver
Now we play for life

[furbo]

Bus ran fine, it was just knowing what it did for my carburated ghia I wanted to do similar for the bus. The bus is FI so even cold it ran pretty well, but with the improved spark, it's much smoother on take off, and hopefully I'll get some better mileage as gas is now $5.50 a gallon here.

Yessir, nothing like putting $65 into the gas tank...
_________________
79 Westy
70 Ghia Vert
95 Mex Beetle
Eccl 9:10

[ratwell]

[Bob D.]

[ratwell]

I think I'm going to install an EZ also.

If you've ever seen the work involved in removing the resistor from the rotor you can believe ACN isn't making money from this modification:

http://bugman.50megs.com/RotorTech.html

Even so, I've learned that Beru makes VW style rotors without the resistor inside in the first place. When I track down the part number and a supplier I'll post it because it reduces the conversion and maintenance costs even more.

The rotor is a must. If you try to run the engine with the 5kohm rotor installed the current level from the ignition will be so low the engine will run too rich and stumble. I've never smelled a FI bus smell so rich before under those circumstances.

I haven't tried it but I suspect you may be able to pop in a 1kohm Vanagon rotor.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ

[Bottomend]

I've got a complete Mallory ignition system. I just went 235 miles on 12.5 gallons of gas. Thats right around 19 MPG with 50/50 highway/street . I drive it pretty hard. Cruise on the freeway at 75.... sometimes 80.

If I kept it around 60 MPH I'm sure I would easily be getting over 20 MPG. The engine seems to require the smallest crack of throttle to maintain this speed. In other words... any less movement of the pedal and I'd be slowing down. A lot of this has to do with my engine specs but a portion of those specs ARE the Mallory CDI/Promaster Coil/Unilite Dist.

The first piece I bought was the CDI, along with ACN's SVDA dist. and put a pertronix inside. I immediatley noticed more punch from the engine. I could climb my hill ( 25* incline) in 2nd gear when it used to require trudging up in 1st. ( this is all before I rebuilt my motor). Quicker starts and smooter idle. Stock carbs at this point too.

After my rebuild (which included increasing the CR to 8.7/1, installing a split duration cam, domed piston for a tighter squish area.. I think my deck is around .040... I cant remember exactly!) I installed Kadrons. I've always felt that the mileage is due to the jetting on the new carbs. I shousld've put a smaller main jet in. I think I'm running a 55 and maybe a 52.5 would be better for highway running. ( I haven't changed theses because I've got a pair of Dells DRLA 40 ALMOST ready to go... I've been saying that for 6 months!)

So, at this point my milage is not the greatest but I think it's a combination of the Kads not being in the best state of tune and me not being the most orderly driver of a vintage bus. This thing is SOOOO fun to buzz around in!

If I can get away, I might try to go to that 'Busses by the Bridge ' meet in AZ later this month I would try to keep my speed at 60 MPH the entire way and report back my findings.

I hope some of this helps with your decision.

[ratwell]

[Bottomend]

This is why I'm thinking it's the carb tunning. I've got enough power on tap to out run ANY city traffic. ( big city too.. LA!) this motor will keep pulling up to 40 MPH in 1st and 60MPH in 2nd. I'm thinking if I can somehow back off the jetting, I will attain better gas milage. OR...just wait till I'm older...

[jberger]

[ratwell]

He must mean 2nd and 3rd.
_________________
'78 Westfalia CDN
'76 Doublecab Sweden
Read the Baywindow FAQ