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Converting over to snowflake taillights
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kk5150
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:09 am    Post subject: Converting over to snowflake taillights Reply with quote

all props go to fluxcap, im just posting it. enjoy. i know it helped me a whole lot.

fluxcap wrote:
alright, got a few pics this morning. Here is how I have mine, I'm not sure of the type of converter you got, so your wire colors may differ.

PLEASE NOTE: The trailer converter I used originally had 5 input wires and 4 output wires. The input and output side had two wires that were for grounds and running lights. I did not use these wires so I cut them off. Make sure everything works FIRST before cutting these wires off.

Pic 1
Your turn signal switch should have a black/green wire coming out of it. This wire will go to a plastic 3way connector. This connector will have two outputs. One output will be a black/green wire that goes to the front passenger turn signal. The other output will to the "right turn signal input" wire on the trailer converter. On my trailer converter, this was a green wire.

Your turn signal switch should also have a white/black wire coming from it. This is the left signal wire. It will the exact same as above and eventually go to the "left turn signal input" wire on the converter. On my converter this was a yellow wire with a red stripe.

Finally, you can see the there is a red wire on the top of the trailer converter. This is the "brake signal input" and connects to the black/red wire coming OUT of the master cylinder.

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Picture 2
Here is the bottom "output" side of the conveter. There is a green wire (right turn signal) that connects to the black/green wire that runs from the front to the rear of the car.

There is also a yellow wire (left turn signal) that connects to the white/black wire that also runs from the front to the rear of the car.


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Picture 3
This shows what you should have at the front of the car

A and B are the two wires describe above in picture 2.

C and D are your left and right running light wires. These connect to the fuse block and run to the rear of the car. These will connect to the short white wires that connect to the rear light.

E - This is the wire that would run to the brake lights on a 62 and later style taillight. When converting to snowflakes, this wire is unused. So it will not connect to anything at the front nor at the rear in the engine compartment. This is the wire I previously said will come in handy if you decide to add a tachometer.

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Picture 4
Here are the left side taillight wires where the exit the roof tunnel at the back of the car.

You can see the black/white and the white/black wires (A and D from the previous picture. You can see the white/black wire is connected to the solid white wire that runs to the left taillight, this is the running light wire. The black/white wire is connected to the solid red wire that runs to the left tailight, this is the brake/turn signal wire. I have removed the short solid black wire since it is unused.

Also you can see the "unused" black/red wire (wire E). I have a tachometer, so I actually have that wire connected to my coil. If you are not using this wire, I would tape the end off (I think it splits and there are actually two ends)and leave it stuffed over to the side.

I don't have a picture of the right side taillight wiring, but it will be similar.
Wires B and C shoud be exiting from the same place as all the other wires. Wire B (black/green) will run over to the right side and connect to the solid red wire (this is your right turn/brake light wire). Wire C (white/red) will run over to the right side and connect to the solid white wire AND the tag light wire.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Final Picture.
This shows which tab on the snowflake goes to which wire.

With the snowflake socket positioned so the small whole is too the top, the white wire will connect to the drivers side post. The red wire connects to the passenger side post. This will be the same for both the left and right side tailligts.

In the picture, you will see I have a small grey wire attached to that small hole on the top. Snowflakes are a pain in the butt to ground properly sometimes, so I ran that wire as a dedicated ground. This is not neccesary, but if you have trouble getting the light to ground, try doing this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Hope this helps! Let me know how it turns out.

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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it helped. On my winter to-do list is cleaning up the wiring and re-doing some of my connections. Alot of those ugly connectors were supposed to be temporary, but I got lazy and never went back to do them correctly. Laughing
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kk5150
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

helped!! it put my car back in "legal" status Very Happy
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madman mike
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't you know I'm doing the exact same thing to my 65 as we speak..Spent the last week screwing around with relays, etc. This is the fix!
Does it need one trailer switch per side or does the one do both sides?
thanks
Mike
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Buck Naked
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One trailer converter takes care of it all.
Thanks again to fluxcap.
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madman mike
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...Help! I'm having a hard time finding one of these trailer converters..is that the name by which they go by? Where did you get yours? Lastly..so all three functions work from the two wires..turnsignal and brake (same filament) and running light.

thanks in advance.
Mike
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Buck Naked
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found mine at the local Napa parts store. Manufactured by HOPKINS TOWING SOLUTIONS; Part # 48845. Called a trailer wiring converter.
And yes, all 3 functions from 2 wires; its like a little `brain` that interprets the car input ( 3 wires ) to bulb output ( 2 wires ).
Here is the installation instructions for the ptece that I used matbe it will clarify stuuf : http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/doc/48845.pdf
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madman mike
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're the man! Got it..after 2 weeks of horsing around with relays, etc..managed to find a switch at a local truck supply shop.

I'm gonna share a post on retrofitting euro headlights into US buckets to get a turn signal, running light, and halogen bulb all integrated in the bucket..

Will post link once I compile pics and figure how to post .

thanks
Mike
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lucille66
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanna say, this is the best thread ever. I picked up a pair of CLEAN OG snowflakes w the vw/hella glass lenses at this last pomona meet. I also picked up the Hopkins trailer light converter at autozone, the same model in these pictures. Super easy to do, just follow the instructions, and you will have flashers, brake lights, and tail/running lights.
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motokraut
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:53 pm    Post subject: Thanks a million!!!! Reply with quote

Just followed these directions... Thank you all for your input, my white '64 'Snowflake' is now wearing a pair of snowflakes!!!!!! Razz Very Happy Cool[/img]
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Apeshoot
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 6:43 pm    Post subject: Flummoxed... Reply with quote

Okay... I tried this today since my 63' has been without turn signals since I bought it. The PO wired it, and after replacing relay, bulbs, turn signal lever, wiring, yada yada... I need help.

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2012-10-19 20.06.34 wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr
Following the post, I put everything exactly as the photos, checked everything 3x and still can't get flashing signals out back. I have one indicator working and that is the passenger side front. Great if you are oncoming in front of me at a light and I need to turn right. Anywhere else, not so much.

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2012-10-19 20.06.20 wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr
This is everything put together after I disconnected the trailer converter from the master cylinder lead and back to where it was originally.

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2012-10-19 20.44.22 b wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr
This is the red and black wire from the master cylinder to out back of the car. When this is wired into the trailer converter, I get nada. When it's plugged in ala original, I get running lights and brake lights. That's it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

2012-10-19 20.43.52 wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr

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2012-10-19 20.04.51 wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr
This is what's happening out back in the engine bay...

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2012-10-19 20.03.41 wiring by Apeshoot, on Flickr
This is what's happening at the fenders. The difference from the OP's setup being all of the wires are original to what was on the car and those LED's with the electronics inside were put on by the PO.

I'm not an electrician, so this has me going round and round. I'm pretty good with schematics, but unless it's in front of me on paper, I can't "see it". The driver side indicator not flashing I surmise is a rusted out housing, because I have tried cleaning the connections, changing the bulb, tracing the wiring for breaks etc, checking and cleaning up the ground, and still no flashy. So like I said, all that's flashing on the car is the passenger side front indicator.

Any help GREATLY appreciated in advance!

I dropped 210$ to have a shop check it out and get it to the point before I tried this ( they only had the one signal flashing but got the car running again and told me there just wasn't any way to get them flashing) and I'm about broke (over 900 spent today in all) at the moment from additionally having the rear brakes redone and having the rear bearings replaced as well.

Just want to keep from having to hang my arm out the window anymore.

EDIT: I have a 2 prong flasher, 3 wire turn signal switch, 12v.


Last edited by Apeshoot on Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dschup
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've ran into issues trying to use a normal flasher relay with LEDS. Try a few regular bulbs. You may need what I think is called a no-load flasher. Again, try regular bulbs first, its cheaper. Hope you get it fixed, try tackling one signal at a time. start cheap, work your way towards expensive...
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Apeshoot
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dschup wrote:
I've ran into issues trying to use a normal flasher relay with LEDS. Try a few regular bulbs. You may need what I think is called a no-load flasher. Again, try regular bulbs first, its cheaper. Hope you get it fixed, try tackling one signal at a time. start cheap, work your way towards expensive...


I do have a couple 1157ll's. I'll go try that now. I've been doing some reading and am thinking I may need a 3 prong flasher instead of the 2 prong that's on it. Thanks for the heads up.
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Apeshoot
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tried switching the LED's with 1157LL's and got the same result. With the trailer converter hooked to the brake lead, no brake lights but the taillights work. Still no flashing except the passenger front. Switched the brake lead back to the red/black lead to the back and I get brake lights and taillights and still no flashing except the passenger front.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do these Trailer Converters work with 6 volt ?
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could not get the converter #48845 to work with the 6 volt system. I had a broken 6 wire turn signal switch on my 1960 with original tail lights. I tried to use a 1962 3 wire switch and the converter with no success. I eventually found a NOS 6 wire, 1960-61 switch and used that. This was 2 years ago. I did phone the toll free help line and they felt that 6 volts was a problem with the new converters. They had changed the internal circuitry some how and 6 volt operation became a problem. That was my 6 volt experience with this particular converter. Perhaps other converters might still work with 6 volt??
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Apeshoot
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still don't know what I'm missing here...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

2012-10-20 12.07.14 by Apeshoot, on Flickr
Everything up front:

Input side of TC

Master Cylinder to Red on TC.
GRN/BLK to Green TC - Pass FRT blinker out
BLK/WHT to Yellow TC - Driver FRT blinker out

Output side of TC

BLK/GRN to Green TC to Rear Pass. side block to RED wire to Left terminal of bulb

BLK/WHT to Yellow TC to Rear Driver side block to RED wire to Left terminal of bulb

FUSE BOX:

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2012-10-20 12.07.37 by Apeshoot, on Flickr

2nd from left terminal to GRY/RED to Rear Pass block to GREY wire to Right side of bulb

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2012-10-20 12.07.54 by Apeshoot, on Flickr

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2012-10-20 12.08.05 by Apeshoot, on Flickr
Pass side block

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2012-10-20 12.08.17 by Apeshoot, on Flickr

3rd from left terminal to GRY/BLK to Rear Driver block to Grey wire to Right side of bulb

BLK/WHT/GRN to L on flasher relay with the Blue lead back to the speedo light

Black wire from last terminal on Right of fuse block to X on flasher relay

With this I get:
Key off - headlights on = both tails burning no brake no blink

Key on - headlights off = Pass lights when brake pressed no Driver
Driver rear on no blinking left blinker on. No FRT
Nothing on Pass rear but front blinking RT blinker
Right PASS rear brake light only

That's it. Any help, please?
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sure sounds like you have an issue with either grounds, or misrouted circuits. Try grounding the bulbs on the body, not the fender. Fender grounds can sometimes be "lost". You can easily run a jumper from the engine to your current bulb ground. This goes for ALL 4 Fenders. So ground the fronts on the main body. One bad ground can create havoc for the rest. Also have you tried regulular good old fashioned bulbs. LEDs, can backfeed if just so happen to have a bad one or two...or....
One additional tid bit of information. I have made this conversion many times over the years. "Some" not all, trailer converters require the taillamp and ground ciruits to pass through them as well to operate properly. . That means the brown, and white wires.
Also are you using LEDS on all 4 corners? If so you will need a LED specific flasher, as LED's dont require the current (AMPS) or load to trip most flashers properly.
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Apeshoot
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:
It sure sounds like you have an issue with either grounds, or misrouted circuits. Try grounding the bulbs on the body, not the fender. Fender grounds can sometimes be "lost". You can easily run a jumper from the engine to your current bulb ground. This goes for ALL 4 Fenders. So ground the fronts on the main body. One bad ground can create havoc for the rest. Also have you tried regulular good old fashioned bulbs. LEDs, can backfeed if just so happen to have a bad one or two...or....
One additional tid bit of information. I have made this conversion many times over the years. "Some" not all, trailer converters require the taillamp and ground ciruits to pass through them as well to operate properly. . That means the brown, and white wires.
Also are you using LEDS on all 4 corners? If so you will need a LED specific flasher, as LED's dont require the current (AMPS) or load to trip most flashers properly.


I'll try the grounds to the body. I've already tried the lights with 1157 regular bulbs to the same end. The flasher relay I'm using now is a grounded 3 prong 49,49a,31 type. Hopefully just changing the grounds will get it. In case it doesn't, how would I route the brown and white wires?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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ive done this a few times works flawlessly,, just gotta hinkey backwards the dash blinky light john
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