Break-in after replacing cylinders/pistons.

[MTT3107]

So, I checked the compression on my engine, turns out it was pretty low, 90-100 psi, with on cylinder showing only 50.

These piston and cylinders came with the engine which was in the beetle when I bought it.
I knew compression would not be great, but was surprised as to how low it was.

Engine is a stock 1600 DP with
dual EMPI ECT 34's and Pertronix SVDA distribuitor.

So I got myself a set of new cylinders and pistons.
Did the ring gapping and clocking and installed them.

Do I need to follow some kind of break-in procedure ?
I plan on starting up the engine out of the car.

[Brian_e]

Did you do any prep work or cleaning before assembling?

I would put it in the car, and go seat the rings hard and quick up an d down the nearest hill.

Brian
_________________
www.type-emotorsports.com

[busdaddy]

Don't run it too long out of the car, as Brian says go find a hill and pull hard up to the top and then let off the gas and coast down the other side (in gear), repeat 10+ times. If you don't have a hill accelerate hard on a long flat deserted road up to 40 or 50 and then let off back down to 10-20, repeat.... (don't break any lws of course ).
Drive home and change oil while it's still hot and the sparkles are still in suspension, then drive normally from there on (although the odd pull followed by a decel wouldn't hurt).
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[modok]

[MuzzcoVW]

[MTT3107]

OK.....

@MuzzcoVW :
Like I said, this was the engine that came with the beetle at the time.
I had the heads reworked ( new guides, valve job) at the time.
And i did check/adjust valve lash.

When I checked the compression, yes, the engine was cold, and I know that a cold engine will tend to have lower numbers, but 50 psi ??

@modok :
I intended to run the engine on the stand, because that makes it way easier to check for leaks, and tune it.
If it is really such a bad idea, I won't do it.

No need to throw a hissy fit.

[Brian_e]

Extended idle, and no load running will just glaze up the cylinders and make it harder to seat the rings correctly.

Just put it in the car and get some load on it asap.

After some good hard runs, then bring it back home and work on tuning it perfectly.

Brian
_________________
www.type-emotorsports.com

[MuzzcoVW]

See post above, It's what I'd say as well. Good long hard break in with hills, accell... decell again and again will make quick work of breaking them in if they aren't glazed. And well... hissy fit That's nothing. I've seen far more in these woods! Think of it as extra punctuation to get a point across.

[94touring]

I do the same as above. Drive hard up a hill and engine brake down the hill, repeatedly.

[Don Jones]

[Vanapplebomb]

Shouldn’t leak oil with fresh sealant on the barrels if the cylinders are the same length, deck is flat, and cylinder head registers are on the same level.

Install it in the vehicle and send it. Fire it up and give her the beans. Don’t baby it.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[modok]

I suppose I should not be too critical, it's not a big deal...just one DETAIL.
Best thing to say is.......... you don't don't have to do everything right to make it work, you just have to do enough right.
You do everything wrong then of course it won't work, but there is a lot of factors.
Lemme try to lay out how you can totally fail

Fuel wash it with a bad carburetor with the needle stuck open, in the winter, with 20-50 synthetic oil in the sump and stale gas in the tank, and also do not hone nor clean the cylinders, just leave the dirt and rust protective film in place on the cylinders, but do apply wheel bearing grease to the chinese rings and install into cylinders without checking the gaps, with the top ring is too tight and the second ring upside down and the oil ring expander overlapped, then crank it over for a half our because your distributor doesn't work, then start it up with no load and and then mess with it for half an hour trying to get a smooth idle, then let it sit for half a year in the barn so the cylinders are nice and rusty and dusty, then install it into the vehicle and feed the engine bonami to try to seat the rings.
Let me know how it works out

[Don Jones]

[MuzzcoVW]

[Dan_Lockwood]

I really don't want to hijack this thread... BUT, all good for a top end with P/C's etc, but I've looked for break in of a FULL build and have not found anything that really nails it.

So, when I get my 2276 built, Engle lifters, SCAT C35 cam, 1.25:1 SCAT solid rockers (that measure more around 1.35:1), AA Hypereutectic 94mm jugs/pistons, dual 44IDF's, 1-5/8" headers and Tims' Stage 2 heads, what would be a good break in process???

I do NOT have an engine stand to pre-run the motor, but it is a sand rail, so it's all exposed for easy access.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance and sorry MTT3107 for stealing your thread...

Dan

[Zed999]

.

[bsairhead]

[chrisflstf]

Excessive idling, even 30 minutes after cam/lifters break in will glaze the cylinders. Then you get to hone and rering again. Alot people arent aware of easy it is to glaze cylinders

[vamram]

I'm curious, how did the factory break-in rings on new engines going into cars during assembly?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Vanapplebomb]

They didn’t. They ran in the engines for ten minutes at the factory, set the idle mixture and timing, and sent the car on its way.

I saw a picture of one of the rooms at the factory where they did this, but not sure I could find it back. Pretty cool.

Breaking in the rings outside of the car requires the engine be mounted onto a dyno so you can load it up. Can’t just break in rings on a test stand.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021