Oil leak due to pressure from new install of full flow system?

[2type2]

With a 2017, both covers vented to breather box: Noticed oil loss of approx 8 Oz after 50 mile drive. See leaking at either oil cooler or main seal, haven't climbed around enough to see, but good puddling even after -10 min running in garage.
So here's the thing --only a couple hundred driven on new install of full flow system with a filter, Mesa type cooler and in line oil bypass and electric thermostat at 190 on. CB maxipump.AN-8 fittings initially had a drip or 2, but fixed with aluminum flange inserts.
So I gotta drop the engine- but since I am sure of effective case ventilation (as it is currentl), the question remains is there a relation between the full flow install and now leaking? Or am I just a lucky guy that now has a real reason to pull the engine and do whatever it needs?
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[mikedjames]

You have just installed a collection of pressurised oil pipe connections, ready to leak becauae the mating faces are scratched, pipe clamps pinching hose, insufficient torque on nuts.. etc. .
There is a good chance it is one of the external connections.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Zed999]

I'm waiting for you to clamber around and see.

Sounds like a failure somewhere and as your full flow system is external, it should be possible to trace and fix without pulling your engine?

[txoval]

If it’s the main seal, it’s just bad luck and not related to your full flow system.

[esde]

What kind of hose and fittings on the full flow system, and what did you seal threads and flanges with?
I find that I fight more leaks when using imported off shore fittings, and when I get nice Parker or Aeroquip fittings from my hydraulic supplier everything goes together without issue or fluid loss. Quality control on the thread spec is a bigger issue than you think
I use Loctite 592 on fitting that I may need to remove, and red loctite on fittings that I never intend to take back apart, or fittings where the threads seem to have a sloppy fit. I used to be stuck on using teflon tape, but finally got away from it. Good riddance
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[2type2]

I wish it was in the lines and fittings. I did re-seal and torque a few AN 8 drippy fittings with use of aluminum inserts, as previously stated. The leak is def not at the lines.I got under but still can't see any absolutes. Pretty much figure on main seal or o-ring gone bad, less than 4000 miles. Good to hear not full flow related, due to good breather didn't expect so.
But on the bright side and looking opportunistically, even though I wasn't so motivated, it's a good chance to give the engine a good "once over".I'll have to get on it 'cause it's time to go fishing.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[2type2]

Pulled engine, suspicious of oil cooler seals or cooler itself---- due to presence oil oil on flat surface of Hoover bit, drip, has been leaking down both sides of case making it wet and grimy. Also wet behind clutch but not evenly, on the case but clutch is Ok. Gonna pull cooler but unsure how to be 100% sure.Would oil mess be on top of case from main seal leak only?
Not an issue of separating parts , will look deeper, but want to not have to pull it again right after reinstall/fix.Maybe more than one source?
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[2type2]

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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[1LoWezl]

I had a similar experience. I used engine oil dye before i pulled the motor. Same oil in same spots. My cooler was leaking at the seams, multiple seams.

The glow is the leak and inside the oil cooler adapter was some pitting. Not sure if that was part of my issue, but i changed both. No more leak
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible

[2type2]

Progressing slowly--- But definitely Not the oil cooler itself. I figure it's likely very old so opting for replacement anyway, but pressure checking with air and water shows no leaks.Dont save old coolers.
Now the pisser is- I get out my trusty 1" and 3ft bar welded to a 36 mm socket only to find ( bad memory) that it's 38mm. Luckily I have a impact type 38 but I'll have to chance a breaker/ cheater bar. Will see next..
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[ORANGECRUSHer]

I find that oil coolers are cheap enough to just replace when in doubt.

The fan really makes diagnosing a leak fun. If all else fails and you got a new cooler on there; degrease the entire engine and dry it. Then run it till it warms or you see the leak. Then tear it apart again and find your leak. I never realised that dye worked so good though. Neat
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Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja 1835cc

[2type2]

No way . I'm gonna put in new cooler new o ring and new main first. Then I will run it, and expect not to have to redo! What a grimy mess it is right now. I'm actually glad this is all going on, it's needed.
This kind of work and bending makes me ache the next day so it's going along by way of convenience, but I'm well motivated.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"