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I did a dumb thing...now it stalls...what did I likely fry?
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jerseyboy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something like that happened to mine. The caretaker for the PO hooked it up to a changer backwards (actually the battery connections were colored backwards, so he thought he had it right). All that happened was one fuse was blown.
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steponmebbbboom
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Latent battery voltage should be close to 12.6V. It may have a surface charge of 13V or more right after shutdown, which will either leak away or disappear after a momentary load, like a couple seconds of cranking. Battery voltage should not dip below 10.8V during cranking.

I would tolerate a dynamic (running) voltage of 13.8 to as high as 15V, with 14.4V as VWGirl said being the standard (most electronic equipment, esp. stereo equipment has an advertised power handling wattage based on this magic number, which is where you probably saw it). Set your multimeter to 20 or 50V, red to red black to black and put it in neutral, set the handbrake, turn the key to "run" and connect a remote starter switch to the starter. Check latent voltage (12.6V) disconnect the positive secondary lead of the coil and crank for five seconds to check cranking voltage (no less than 10.8V) and hook the coil back up and start it. Blip the throttle to cut-in the alternator, and check dynamic voltage (14.4V). Post the results and we'll go from there.
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deschutestrout
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jerseyboy wrote:
Something like that happened to mine. The caretaker for the PO hooked it up to a changer backwards (actually the battery connections were colored backwards, so he thought he had it right). All that happened was one fuse was blown.


Yeah, my connections are colored backwards, and yes, I too hooked up a charger backwards....the plot thickens as does the matter in my brain. So, the fuse caused you to stall???
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deschutestrout
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remote starter switch...ain't got one of those Embarassed
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steponmebbbboom
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any kind of switch with two wires coming out of it, with alligator clips at the ends will work but ideally you want a pushbutton style, good for 20A, with 14gauge wires. You can make one yourself out of shit you got lying in the garage if you cant afford the $10 one from IdIoT AuTo PaRtZ.
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deschutestrout
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zabo wrote:
Battery light coming on?


Not when I have my foot on the gas
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steponmebbbboom
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the light steady or does it flicker?
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Duncwarw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case, I'd look closely at the regulator.

It has "points" in it and a heavy load (like a short) could cause a bit of welding to occur. An arc like that might make the regulator not so prone to a good connection.

If you have access to a spare (known good) regulator, swapping it would be a quick and easy way to potentially solve the problem.
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deschutestrout
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery light comes on steady when it's in the process of stalling. When I have my foot on the gas...i.e. driving, it doesn't come on at all. Ok...with the talk of regulator being part of alternator I'm a bit confused....should have said at the start that this is my '78 2l FI....is the regulator a separate component or part of the alt?
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Duncwarw
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd sort the stalling out first.
The flickering charging light at low revs is not a surprise.

If you have a seperate regulator, it should be on the firewall to the right of the engine. It's a bit over square and has a black plastic plug with a few wires in teh bottom of it.
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jerseyboy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jerseyboy wrote:
Something like that happened to mine. The caretaker for the PO hooked it up to a changer backwards (actually the battery connections were colored backwards, so he thought he had it right). All that happened was one fuse was blown.



Oh yeah, I forgot that the cd player was fried too actually
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jerseyboy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deschutestrout wrote:
jerseyboy wrote:
Something like that happened to mine. The caretaker for the PO hooked it up to a changer backwards (actually the battery connections were colored backwards, so he thought he had it right). All that happened was one fuse was blown.


Yeah, my connections are colored backwards, and yes, I too hooked up a charger backwards....the plot thickens as does the matter in my brain. So, the fuse caused you to stall???


I replaced the fuse and sprayed some starter fluid in the carb and it started right up.
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71_transporter
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alternator, gen. or starter

I work in a boat factory and i know if you reverse it in these boats it frys the starter...???
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VWBusrepairman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deschutestrout wrote:
should have said at the start that this is my '78 2l FI....is the regulator a separate component or part of the alt?

It's seperate- mounted on the right side of the fuel tank panel with the single wiring plug attached to it from the alternator. Make sure your blue wire has a good connection there as this too, will effect charging.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing to add other than sometimes a non-performing or underperforming alternator will cause a miss at idle.

FI is quite voltage sensitive.
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greatlord
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't forget the ghetto charging system check folks, if you pull a battery terminal and the buss stays running the charging system is working, if theres no alternator current it will die.

my bet is you knocked off a vaccume hose egr connection or something anoying like that

EDIT: do not try this on feul injected or electronic ignition cars


Last edited by greatlord on Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

greatlord wrote:
don't forget the ghetto charging system check folks, if you pull a battery terminal and the buss stays running the charging system is working, if theres no alternator current it will die.


Please keep in mind that if you do remove the battery from a running car with an alternator, you are very likely to toast the electrical components including the FI system.

This is an old wives tale that I had hoped was a dead isssue by now.

From http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html#CARBATTERY_031

"15.6) Test the alternator by disconnecting the battery with the engine running.
A battery as like a voltage stabilizer or filter to the pulsating DC produced by the alternator. Disconnecting a battery while the engine is running can destroy the electronic components, e.g., computers, radio, stereo, alarm system, etc., or the charging system. Just say NO! if anyone suggests this."
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greatlord
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

youch, I withdraw my moment of stupidity; I failed to consider the effects of rapidly varying voltage on FI systems, please no one try this with a feul injected bus, I've never had it harm my radio but my radio has a great big noise supressor in the power line.
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