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Putting a pancake engine in a 1970 VW Bus
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bussy0928
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 4:56 pm    Post subject: Putting a pancake engine in a 1970 VW Bus Reply with quote

Hi! Im thinking of purchasing an engine and was wondering if I could put a pancake rather than the upright engine in my bus. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could, but you shouldn't. It would be an awful lot of work for the gain. If you want a Type 4 powered bus buy a '72 or later and sell yours to someone who wants a T1 powered bus.
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bussy0928
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the body of my bus is in xcellent shape. I dont want to get rid of it. Your saying that it will fit its just more work to get it in? Thanks so much for the feedback!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Warning, major hacking required, VW widened the frame rails in 72 for the type 4 and it's a serious tight squeeze to get one into an early bus. Unless you are a professional fabricator with years of experience modifying VW's dont even attempt it, sell the type 4 towards a built type 1.
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JMazier
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Talk to Jake Raby. If anybody has info on this conversion it would be him...
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busman78
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A T4 in its pancake configuration would indeed require considerable cutting and modifying. But, a T4 converted to an upright configuration, using either a Raby DTM, Cali or Sharpbuilt can be fitted into a early bay without cutting or chopping. You will have to modify the later bay rear hanger (or early Vanagon hanger) to fit the early bay since the early bay did not have the engine support frame horns like the split bus or T1's and earlier T3's the conversion presents a few problems, sealing the engine compartment can be accomplished with some creative alum sheet cutting or Jake sells a kit for the T4 engine in a T1 engine based vehicle. Dual carbs will be required, a modified 210 or 215mm flywheel, the 228mm will not fit in the early bay bell housing and some modification to the T4 exhaust. If done right there will no reversable damage to the early bay and can be converted back to a T1, but after you experience a T4 you will not want to go back.

Search the Shop Talk Forums, there has been several that have done this conversion.
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a freind who has this in his 69. He hates it. Seriously. Cooling issues galore. His engine bay looks hacked, it doesnt seal well, and he regrets buying it like that. Again, dont do it. Hear me.

For that money you can buy a larger Type1 engine and have better reliablity if more power is what you want. Listen to us before you're sorry.
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busman78
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you leave out the part of better reliability, cooling issues, engine bay hacked, sealed well and more power, then all you have left is Type 1 and being cheap.

Properly done with a upright conversion fan housing will provide better cooling on a T4 than the T1 ever had. Yep, it do cost more to build a T4, but in the end you get what you pay for. HP to HP being equal a T4 will out perform and outlast a T1.
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Hebster52
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Warning, major hacking required, VW widened the frame rails in 72 for the type 4 and it's a serious tight squeeze to get one into an early bus. Unless you are a professional fabricator with years of experience modifying VW's dont even attempt it, sell the type 4 towards a built type 1.


Hmm.. A Porsche flatsix fits inbetween the framerails on a pre-67 splitty so I dont see why not a type 4 wouldn't fit? Wink
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morymob
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted a bus to use for the various car meets i go to & 1st was a 70 with a locked eng(spun rod brng). Had solid body-painted it & rebuilt eng.probably not orig one. I went with 87-dual port -conv to doghse cooler-009-headers. ran good around town but hit a grade & slo-go. I had a intake center & a good used "HOLLY BUGSPRAY carb that i switched to. This made a huge differenceabove 50mph & rarely needed to down shift.I usually cruised 60-65 & averaged 25-26 mpg.Checked it many times by mi markers on interestate. ran this way about 6yrs-needed valve seat-changed back to single port sold it for a 84 wbx wolfsburg.Got tired of freezing my buns off in winter-& took 2 people to drive in gusty weather.Never let me down on road though. Now most would laugh at my eng setup,but ran great with lots of pep + goo mpg. i wouldnt use pancake a all,my 2cts.
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