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Windshield Washer '79 Super Beetle
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79SuperFlyer
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:47 pm    Post subject: Windshield Washer '79 Super Beetle Reply with quote

To whom it may concern,

Is the winshield washer system on the '79 Super Beetle powered by the pressure from the spare tire, or is it a separate pump? (The windshield washer on this '79 Super Beetle does not work). TMI has a replacement system that apprears to inclucde wiring, and a "pump."

If anyone can give me a synopsis on how the system should function, and how to troubleshoot, please don't hesitate to offer the advice...

Thanks!

R
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ach60 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Original system used air pressure from spare tire.
Put water in the tank, and screw cap on.
You'll find a small dia plastic hose goes from washer tank & should screw onto spare tire valve.
You air up the spare tire to 35 psi & then screw the line onto the spare tire.
The system should be presurized now.
Take the fill cap off, and you'll here pist as pressure comes out.
If no pist you have a leak that you need to fix.
Once you know the system holds pressure the only thing wrong can be switch which is part of the wiper switch, or a clog.
The pressurized water goes to the steering column washer/wiper switch,
and then to the spray nozle.
The water in the steering column idea is purly german.
I had the hose come off once in the 70's & dump the contents of the bottle into my lap,
before I could get pulled over & stopped.
The sytem has a valve in it that keeps you from flattening your spare tire,
but I dont know the minium pressure that it stops allowing you to wash your windows.
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SAN MigueL
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could write my master's thesis on the windshield washer system. I've been trying to get mine to work for 4 years. It's taken 5 valve caps and miles of hoses. My current attempt has lasted for a month and so far it's still holding. If you fill the tire to 42 psi it will likely find the weakest point and leak somewhere. You'll end up with a very flat tire sooner rather than later. The pressure cut-off valve in the cap is supposed to shut off the tire pressure at 28 psi. Try to find leaks by spraying all hose connections and the cap valve with soap water and look for bubbles. I bought and returned 2 aftermarket cap valves from CIP. The rubber gasket inside was inferior and wouldn't hold. I finally found a NOS fresh one on Samba and at first it also leaked. I think the rubber was too new. I sprayed the gasket and the threads with silicone which enabled a tighter seal and so far - so good. Most people aren't as determined and patient so they opt for the electric pump modification. Good luck.
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DrDarby
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the spare tire driven system with the currently available tank & pump. I think CIP1 has the proper super beetle bottle w/pump & switch. On a '79 (only) it can be wired right to the windshield wiper switch.

I will forever reccomend this after having the valve let go onto my crotch on a -20 below day.
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fred69vert
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put in the electric washer modification. It works great except for one thing.....the fluid sprays past the windshield and up onto the roof. I have to "pulse" it with the switch to get fluid on the windshield. I've tried to adjust the (new) nozzle but I can't figure out how to adjust it. Is there a way to adjust where the water sprays?

With the fluid spraying onto the roof, think what happens when the top on my convertible is down!!!!
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BUGGED11111
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fred69vert wrote:
I I've tried to adjust the (new) nozzle but I can't figure out how to adjust it. Is there a way to adjust where the water sprays?

With the fluid spraying onto the roof, think what happens when the top on my convertible is down!!!!


You adjust the nozzle by sticking a very small sewing needle into the hole of the jet on the nozzle. You can then use the needle to rotate the jet lower/ higher and right /left. Do that for both nozzles

I guess the electric mod is nice but I've had a stock system for years and it works fine. I do have an old time service station near me that still has free air so maybe that's why I still have it


.
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recon|element
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:19 pm    Post subject: Hose Routing Schematic Reply with quote

Anyone have a schematic of how the hose is routed through the steering column?
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discochris
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could not get mine to work, and I ended up giving up and buying a universal washer fluid pump from NAPA. I found a rear-defrost switch from an old vanagon, and put it in one of the empty switch slots on the dash and put a new label on it for the washer, so it looks stock.
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recon|element
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally found the final part I need for the system last night online...for cheap. It would really be a shame to not use the system (If the switches work) considering I actually have some of the hard-to-find parts, such as the plastic pressure tube that attaches to the tire and the screw-on connector at the bottom of the bottle. If the switch works in the steering column everything should be cool with it.

I'm thinking of setting up a stereo system connected directly to the battery with a cutoff switch... need to find a switch to fit the dash holes or use the rear defroster... I don't even know if it works.
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Hose Routing Schematic Reply with quote

recon|element wrote:
Anyone have a schematic of how the hose is routed through the steering column?

Schematic? There's no schematic. One hose comes in from the tank in the trunk into one of the plastic tubes on the valve, the other hose goes out to the sprayer from the other plastic tube. Hook either hose on either tube. Here's what it looks like. That pin at left is activated by pulling on the wiper lever, letting pressurized fluid to run through. It's purely mechanical.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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jamesdagg
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

recon|element wrote:

I'm thinking of setting up a stereo system connected directly to the battery with a cutoff switch... need to find a switch to fit the dash holes or use the rear defroster... I don't even know if it works.


Hook up your stereo this way>
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=271261&highlight=
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recon|element
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2008 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By "schematic" I mean an exploded view diagram.
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recon|element
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:03 am    Post subject: Found Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
recon|element wrote:
Anyone have a schematic of how the hose is routed through the steering column?

Schematic? There's no schematic. One hose comes in from the tank in the trunk into one of the plastic tubes on the valve, the other hose goes out to the sprayer from the other plastic tube. Hook either hose on either tube. Here's what it looks like. That pin at left is activated by pulling on the wiper lever, letting pressurized fluid to run through. It's purely mechanical.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks for the pic, I found it. It saved me time IDing the inputs for the washer switch. I had to put my head down by the pedals and my feet on the headrest while looking up at the underside of the steering column.

For reference purposes, on a 1974 Super, the inputs are located on the left side of the steering column (towards the driver side window) about an inch or so above the bottom of the dash. The hose from the washer bottle feeds through a hole in the "firewall" below the fresh air box, which is to the left of the steering column (again, toward the driver side window) and plugs into one of the washer switch inputs. The hole should be grommeted. Another length of hose feeds from the other washer switch input through a hole found behind the radio area in the "firewall" and leads into the fresh air box and up to the washer nozzle. That hole is grommeted as well.

Whether or not the hoses attached to the washer switch inputs should be clamped somehow to prevent the pressurized water from spilling everywhere, I don't know. I assume so. I don't know what the stock system looks like hooked up and working, and I still need to completely install and test the system. The only things that could stop it from working would be a faulty washer switch or a bad washer bottle valve... I hope.
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jamesdagg
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My stock system works great. They don't use clamps. Instead they have a small rubber sleeve at the end about a 1/2" long. I think it's just tubing one size bigger.

You can set up your system so you can refill the tire from next to the washer bottle rather than at the tire which in a Super is a pain.

I was thinking of extending that a little and putting a refill valve inside the gas door next to the gas cap. Then you could check the pressure and refill without opening the trunk.

Have you seen those new valve stem caps that turn color if your pressure drops? You buy them sized for your pressure. You could have one of the 28 psi ones on the cap in the gas door so every time you get gas you could visually see if your pressure is low. Next summer I'm working on that.

Jim
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recon|element
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamesdagg wrote:
My stock system works great. They don't use clamps. Instead they have a small rubber sleeve at the end about a 1/2" long. I think it's just tubing one size bigger.

You can set up your system so you can refill the tire from next to the washer bottle rather than at the tire which in a Super is a pain.

I was thinking of extending that a little and putting a refill valve inside the gas door next to the gas cap. Then you could check the pressure and refill without opening the trunk.

Have you seen those new valve stem caps that turn color if your pressure drops? You buy them sized for your pressure. You could have one of the 28 psi ones on the cap in the gas door so every time you get gas you could visually see if your pressure is low. Next summer I'm working on that.

Jim


Thanks for the advice. I've seen the rubber sleeves on some of the other connections... I don't know where I could walk in a buy those.

I don't think filling the spare where it is would be a problem, but I haven't tried it. I don't have carpet or anything in the truck so I don't really think it would be difficult.

So, the washer bottle setup is:

Top of washer bottle: cap with hose leading to valve, which is connected to the plastic hose connected to the spare.
Bottom of washer bottle: hose connected to port, screw-on cap, with hose going through "firewall" and connecting to steering column.

Spare tire pressure feeds through the top of the bottle and pushes the water down and out of the bottom? Is that right?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep thats right. The hose you mention here>" cap with hose leading to valve", can be quite short and you can fill the tire up there.

For the sleeves, just find some vacuum hose slightly bigger. It will stretch, especially if you warm it up.

A little dish soap in a spray bottle of water will find leaks. The tank caps often leak. The gaskets get old.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Hose Routing Schematic Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
recon|element wrote:
Anyone have a schematic of how the hose is routed through the steering column?

Schematic? There's no schematic. One hose comes in from the tank in the trunk into one of the plastic tubes on the valve, the other hose goes out to the sprayer from the other plastic tube. Hook either hose on either tube. Here's what it looks like. That pin at left is activated by pulling on the wiper lever, letting pressurized fluid to run through. It's purely mechanical.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Do you know were to find only that part of the on column switch, I mean the one of this images, the inputs were the 2 hoses must connect. My system is working but those inputs have a small bearing or something like that and every time I pull the switch the water start rising. I found the complete switch on column for about $70.00 but Im looking for a replace of only the inputs part.
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-953-553
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76sb
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-953-553

Thank you!
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:08 am    Post subject: Kaboom! Reply with quote

I attempted to reinstall my windshield washer. the PO left it out, and I have wanted to stay stock.

I purchased the bottle and hoses etc. from Samba classifieds, made sure the pressure nozzle worked and hooked it all up. The spare was at 42, which is what the owners manual wants. No leaks, button on the switch in ready mode. Got in the car, pressed the fluid button on the switch and...

KABOOM!

The bottle had EXPLODED with the bit of fluid and a kazillion bottle pieces everywhere. My wife thought I had blown myself up. Once she was sure she knew where the insurance policy was she came out to check to see if I was in pieces in the garage.

Hilarious! On to plan B. I think I'm going electric.
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