which multimeter to buy?

[wolfej1]

[devesvws]

i like the sunpro brand but my wife got me this a few months ago its a power probe

but want one of these. http://www.motorbookguy.com/VW_Audi_OBD_2_Code_Reader_Live_Data_Autoscanner_p/vag405.htm
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THE FEW THE PROUD THE ORIGINAL VW WATERBOXER -> looking for a original 91 vanagon owners manual with 1991 on the cover http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmuiG2tUsP4&feature=share https://picasaweb.google.com/101290228103300323836/BostonBobFlywheelVideo#5543000332201103922

[Perales]

I have had several cheap ones over the years and they never seemed to totally agree with each other. I recently splurged on a FLUKE 115 and I will never have to get another one for as long as I live (assuming I don't lose it)

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-- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino)

[deprivation]

Good gawd - am I a dinosaur! I am still using the Radio Shack meter I bought back in high school (1979!)

Now, what's this digital thing everone is on about?
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1986 Westy 2WD auto a.k.a. "The Old Girl"
www.kittenfart.com

[Bruce Wayne]

now if I can only figure out how it works. I tried testing the Temp 2,but I don't know where to hook up the leads on the multimeter or the Temp 2. anyone help me out on this as I have never used a multimeter before.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA

[Perales]

[Perales]

[JPrato]

[Perales]

[pushkick]

personally i like the old simpson but the fluke is by far the better meter had my fluke 75 for almost 30 years and still ticking and yes the auto shutoff is great. it just needs a solar charger and lithium ion to complete it.

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[Wildthings]

[VanagOnly]

I bought a Fluke 23 in the mid eighties and it still works perfectly and is solid as a brick.I think I've had to change the batteries (9volt) maybe twice in that time and I use it alot both on my van and as an audio tech.Totally worth the investment.
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87 Wolfie
Past rides:72 Bus- RIP
72 Volvo 145 wagon-RIP
76 Jeep Wagoneer-RIP
67 Bug Dad's Daily-Project

[presslab]

I bought this meter recently, it's not bad for $30:

http://aidetek.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&am...y_Code=DMM

It has some great features like auto-off, duty cycle, frequency, an included thermocouple, 20A current, relative measurement, 3hz screen update, etc.

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1986 Vanagon Westfalia EJ25
1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
2010 Titus El Guapo --- 2011 On-One 456 Ti

[Volksaholic]

[cellerdoor]

Reviving an old topic,

Going to work though some electrical issues on the van over this winter and Im tired of the cheap digital multimeters failing, so Im going to source a robust one. I also need a meter for various battery testing (sons collection of airsoft and RC cars) plus home wiring use.

Looks like the Fluke 110 family fits the bill (Fluke 113, 114 or 115). The 116 has temperature sensors but I cant figure out how I would use this on a Vanagon unless Im trying to put out a gas line fire.

Anybody have these? Will this take car of any vanagon need? Will the 113 do everything on the van or do I need more features.

Total noob on auto electrical testing so I dont know what features to look for.

Thanks
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1986 Westy

[dhaavers]

I'm sure the Fluke is lovely (I don't have one) but if you ever want to test your
O2 sensor operation, you'll need an analog tester with the sweep needle.

For now, sure - get the Fluke. You can always pick up a cheap analog when/if needed.

Just sayin'...
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[61Scout]

Best bang for your buck, it's hard to go wrong with a PDI meter. Look them up before dropping your money on the Fluke. The ones that are automotive specific also come with an inductive pickup for rpm signal and a wire temp probe. I've had a PDI for years, and zero problems.
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1986 Westfalia Weekender Wolfsburg, RJE 2.3
1985 Tin Top, Subie 2.2 + 5MT
Floppy Mirrors no more: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=653018&highlight=
Remove the front spindle nut with ease: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679567&highlight=
Remove the rear wheel bearing housing without messing with the big 46mm nut: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679507&highlight=

-Nec Spe, Nec Metu

[nocreditnodebt]

The cheap harbor freight Cen-tech contributed to me overcharging my batteries as it reads .24 volts low, but I should have known better than to trust it.

I now have a AC/DC clamp on Ammeter/DMM. These are great for figuring out how much current is flowing through any single wire. One does not need to open up the circuit and run the current through the digital multimeter, And one is not limited to 10 amps max as most meters are. Mine reads very closely with my shunted meter/battery monitor as long as one zeroes it while the meter is right next to the wire it will be clamped over.

It also has an Auto shut down feature, and most all other digital multimeter functions.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P.

Uses two AAA batteries. Do not use rechargeables. I was getting huge discrepencies in voltage and amps using NiMh's in this meter.

[bluebus86]

Look for a meter with full sized sockets or the test leads. some meters come with "baby" sockets that wont accept the larger test lead connectors. many cheaper meters either have the baby sockets or have full sized socket wih cheap short length test leads, that wont accept alligator clips. if you buy a meter with the standard bigger sockets, and the test leads are short and have no alligator clips, you can then buy a quality test lead set, with long wires and removable alligator leads.

some really cheap meters (like the $5 one I bought once at harbour frieght) stopped working within weeks.

anolong meters are generally my favorite, they are great for measuring vairing voltages, and more convenent in measuring resistance that varies, It is a lot easier for me to see the variation of a needle moving than digits changing. however anaolgs dont take kindly to reverse polarity (plus and minus wires mixed up when taking volt readings.) one old school trick to help protect an anolog meter aginst over range or reverse polarity measurements is to flash the test lead on the terminal to be measured very quickly while observing the neddle, if your fast at removing the test lead you can prevent a burn out, you observe the needle, and if it rapidly shots to over scale, or rapidly flicks backwards, you know your reveresed, or over range, but since you only flashed the test lead on the terminal, you likely prevented damage.. You cant flash a digital to easily as you cant really see the digits go up, and thus it is easy to over range them (they are however protected aginst reverse polarity)

new younger technicians dont have this skill of flashing a meter test lead, and i have seen them fry both anolog and digital meters when there is an over range (anolog or digital) or reverse polarity (in case of anolog)

so make it habbit to flash your meter's test leads. a tried and proven method to save a meater from harm. if the flash does enot cause a rapid movement of the neddle to the stops, then you are safe to firmly attach the leads.

one nice thing about an anolog meter is that no battery is required for current or volt readings (resistance readings require a battery) thus an anolog meter would be a good choice to keep in the cars tool kit as you wont be stranded cause of dead battery

I have both types digital and anolog, each has it's fine points.

But no mater what, get full sized standard sockets on the meter to accept a quality set of test leads. it is a real pain when the test leads are not long enough, and/or there is no alligator clips so you cant have a free hand, for instance to hold the meter with or for writting down readings.

[kamzcab86]