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Eberspacher B2 Rebuild Project
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:20 am    Post subject: B2 Eberspacher testing Reply with quote

You will recall earlier in this thread, that pictures of a support stand were posted that would make it easier to work and test the B2 heater. Since that time, some additional modifications have been made.

The changes incorporate the installation of a small gas tank with gas lines and a 12 volt termination block and switch.

A dual brake fluid reservoir from a 68-up Bug was used the gas tank. The separation wall inside the reservoir was removed so that the tank would hold more fuel and any overflow gas could be reused.

The dual outlets allow you to connect both the fuel feed and fuel overflow lines. (These fuel lines need to be made just a bit longer and better secured.)

Depending on the units operating voltage you can use a small Lawn and Garden battery or charger for the power supply.

A 3 post electrical terminal block was used for connecting the voltage supply. This minimizes any arcing and makes connections much easier. One post was used for the negative or ground. The other two posts were positive with one having solid power and the other post having a switch controlling its power. This works great for testing the individual parts, such as the fuel pump, fan etc.

Detailed photos:

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Wiring Diagram:

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1974 Westfalia
1964 Beetle (stock)
2017 Santa Fe
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JeffL
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have enjoyed the tread. About 7 years ago I installed one in my 63. Not many people know much about these so I went through all of the motions described above.

Did you know there is a snorkle that goes in the circular shift tube cover? It is used to allow air under hood. Most older cars have a loose fit but the original Beetles are too tight so the snorkle was a 90 degree bend that pointed down to get air.

Some of the later units did recirculate cabin air and this eliminated the issue at the expense of another hole.

I used mine every winter for 5 years. I found out that at 6 volts, some time the voltage was not high enough at idel to get enough heat on the glow plug. Sometimes I'd have to be off idle to get the glow plug in operation.

I lucked out and didn't have to rebuild the unit. I just cleaned everything. Below is a picture of it in my restored 63 Sunroof.


Jeff

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MTIguy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been reading this post off and on and this is great stuff. If I have said it before I'll say it again I LOVE SAMBA. I read posts for a long time prior to signing up in fear of being an idiot. I made a contribution to SAMBA because I can't imagine the day this sit ceases to exist.

Awesome job guys. I have stock heat, never even knew this existed. I will not own one in my 66 but man, just good knowledge.
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pleased that someone actually reads this stuff and gets something out of it. It makes it all worthwhile.

You are correct, the site is incredible and everyone is always willing to share their knowledge.

JeffL..

Great job on your rebuild. Looks awesome!

Quote:
Did you know there is a snorkle that goes in the circular shift tube cover? It is used to allow air under hood. Most older cars have a loose fit but the original Beetles are too tight so the snorkle was a 90 degree bend that pointed down to get air.


You made reference to a "J" pipe. Can you elaborate on where it goes?

Is it this one?
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Or this one?

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MTIguy,

Initially I felt intimidated to post anything, but over time you get to learn different things and build up your confidence.
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JeffL
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

64Bug wrote:

JeffL..

Great job on your rebuild. Looks awesome!

Quote:
Did you know there is a snorkle that goes in the circular shift tube cover? It is used to allow air under hood. Most older cars have a loose fit but the original Beetles are too tight so the snorkle was a 90 degree bend that pointed down to get air.


You made reference to a "J" pipe. Can you elaborate on where it goes?

Is it this one?

JeffL notes. No this one is for direct air into the heater for combustion. It hooks down into a calm area about where the steering column comes through the fire wall. If you look at my photo you will see a small flexible tube at the bottom of the heater. It conects to the J tube you show here. There is a rubber gromet for about 1 inch of the J tube to poke up into the trunk area.
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Or this one?

JeffL notes - No, this one goes into the cabin for recirculation air. In the earlier version there is a meltal 90 degree elbow about 3 inches in diameter. It is very short. I've never seen another. I'll have to find my other pics (real prints, no digital) and scan one in. I think you are missing the other 90 degree end to dump the air into the passenger cabin.

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MTIguy,

Initially I felt intimidated to post anything, but over time you get to learn different things and build up your confidence.
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my 66 bug
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great stuff. I have been working on an 8345c made by stewart warner and am also in need of a fuel pump rebuild kit. The diaphram is old and brittle from age. The heater looks great but the exhaust pipe is rusted away.. Has anyone ever had a new stainless pipe welded to the heat exchanger?? Any and all ideas or advice would be grearly appreciated.. I have a shot of my heater in my gallery.. Dave
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm by no means a welder, but from my earlier days I recall that stainless steel is not the easiest metal to weld. I think that only a TIG welder will weld that stuff, which means unless you have one, you would need to take it to professional welding shop.

Would there be an alternative way to attach the pipe other than welding?

Short of that, you could always weld in a short length of standard exhaust pipe.

As for your fuel pump, I have had some success with using the diaphragms from a standard fuel pump from a Bug. You would need to cut it down to size though.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my 66 bug wrote:
... an 8345c made by stewart warner
Your question about a SW heater is completely irrelevant to this topic and should be put in it's own topic.
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Cerot
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread!
Im trying to get a B2 working in my 65 right now, when I pull on the knob, I hear it making some very quick "click click click" noises, but no heat. A guy who, like everyone, had one back in the day, mentioned that the plug might be shot?
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt its the plug at this stage of the investigation. The quick clicking is the fuel pump not pumping fuel. First off replace all the fuel lines. Now check the the diaphragm material inside the pump. It is probably shot after all these years and will need replacing. Remove the fuel line from the jet carrier and fire up the pump. If it is working you will see gas coming out the end.

Let me know how us know how you make out
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my 66 bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once again I find myself wondering if I really belong to the Samba or if there are just some people out there that are just so anal to questions and threads that they have to make you feel like crap!! Sorry for asking a heater question on a heater thread.. Guess its my fault for asking a couple generic questions about SW when it should have been B2.. I will stop since my input is of no relevance..Dave
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave,
Would you go into your local Ford dealer to ask them a technical question about your Chevy? The same applies here. There are a whole bunch of experts returning to this topic who know all about Eberspacher heaters. This knowledge does not apply to SW heaters because the SW heaters work very differently. Most likely, the experts who do know about SW heaters are not looking at this topic (since it has nothing to do with SW heaters).
Just start your own topic with SW in the title. How difficult is that?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cerot wrote:
, when I pull on the knob, I hear it making some very quick "click click click" noises,

Is the clicking so fast you can't or almost can't count the clicks? If so, the pump is sucking air. Once fuel hits the pump, the backpressure will slow the clicking so it clicks about once a second.
Disconnect the fuel line after the pump to see if anything comes out.
Remove the pickup from the tank. The feed line is a metal tube that passes through the bulkhead. On the end of this tube is a piece of rubber hose to reach down to the bottom of your fuel tank. If this rubber hose has rotted off (or even cracked near the top), your pump won't be able to suck up the fuel.

To check your glow plug, test it with an ohm meter. It should be just under ½ ohm. I inspect the coils with an eye loupe. You can usually follow the coil looking through the holes in the shroud. If you have access to a 6V car battery, you can test it with that. But beware, the glow plug is intended to run on 4V, so if you use a 6V car battery, don't hold it connected for more than a few seconds. You don't need to wait until it glows orange, just touch it for a second to see if it gets hot.
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my 66 bug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just want to ask a couple generic questions about the eberspacher heater in this discussion. Does it opperate with a heat exchanger and if so is it stainless steal with an exhaust pipe? And is it fed with a fuel pump?? You see I am well aware of the name difference between the two heaters and can clearly see that one is a ford while the other is a chevy. That was not my question in the post. I have been watching this forum for a long time and figured that this was the first heater thread since last winter and made a comment about needing a fuel pump and asking a general question about welding stainless.. I have learned my lesson an will let the rest of you handle the technical.....Dave
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave,

All "vintage" Eberspacher gas heaters operate with a heat exchanger. Basically a combustion chamber with with a sealed outer chamber. It does have an exhaust pipe as well as a fresh air intake vent

Most of the early models have a fuel pump. Then they added a pressure regulator. Some models of the BN2 have what they call a metering pump, which is a fuel pump that automatically meters the fuel into the combustion chamber. I'm not familiar yet with the later models like the BA6 and BN4 models, so my comments are based entirely on models prior to these.

I am open to disagreement, but I believe the combustion chamber is made of stainless steel in all the Eberspacher models.

Hope this helps
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After testing, yes after about 2 seconds it starts to click once every second or so, maybe a bit longer. Gas was pumping out of the line, so the pump seems fine. The orange fan thing in the front was not spinning though, and no heat resulted. Also, the little red light inside was not turning on. Do these have some kind of internal fuse that could have blown?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fan isn't turning, you have to figure out why. Trace the wires from the fan, is it getting voltage?
Take the fan out, sometimes the bushings the armature rides in get stiff. A little drop of very thin lubricant will fix it. Don't use thick oil, it has too much drag when it's really cold out.
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vanover
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:04 pm    Post subject: eberspacher b2 gas heater help Reply with quote

Hey guys I just got a B2/201246A heater and wanted to know how to test this baby. There are two wires that look like they need to be attached. Wire 1 comes from I believe to be the level switch, think this goes to positive? wire two two goes down to the bottom of the unit and appears to be a ground. How is the best way to test, its getting cold and this new toy needs to be used
Thanks
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64Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great news on the material for the Fuel Pump diaphragm.

We went to Buffalo for the Thanksgiving holiday and I persuaded my wife to make a side trip to Harbour Freight.

I picked up several sheets of tool box liner material. It is the solid kind, not the perforated stuff.

Each sheet is about 15" x 22" and is less than a 1/16" thick. It is gas and oil resistant!

I cut one out. The diameter is 1 5/8" in diameter and using a leather punch, I was able to punch out the hole for the center.

The material works great and does not curl and disintegrate. And I have enough to last several lifetimes.
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MortalEngine
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought the rebuilt 12V B2 from 64Bug a few days ago - he got me started ...!
Here is the German version of the B2 Installation Manual (published in March 1970) - it contains some vital info including the hole dimensions and placement. If I get to it I will possibly translate it at some point - but it should be usable as is. if anybody needs to know anything specific let me know.

it says the fuel intake pipe should touch the left wall of the tank to avoid interference w/ the fuel gauge float.
btw picture 11 on pg 3 mentions the air intake snorkel in place of the shift tube cover.

There is more info here - sorry it is in German Shocked

http://vwbus2.dyndns.org/bulli/michaelk/vw_bus_d/rlf_frischluft/index.htm#F5

one thing worth mentioning is section F5.3 1-3 - it says explicitly to provide an air gap in the fuel return line when bench testing. too much back pressure there will cause the heater to run rich and smoke. so a simple Tee for the return line is probably not a great idea.
Fuel consumption should be 15cc's in 225 - 200 seconds.
will post more as I read it....

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