dual carbs on a single port

[low67vedub]

i am thinking of getting rid of my single stock carb and go for dual carbs.
i just recently found out that i can get a set of single port dual carbs. i thought they never existed. i was wondering what you guys thought and if i should invest in them to pep up my 1600.
so far this is what i got in it

-Rebuilt 1600 stock single port, thanx to "German Auto Werks"
-strd header system hook up to a custom dual stinger setup. built by yours truley. thinking about a merg comp. 4 into 1 system. what do u think?
-petronix pointless system
-brand new accel 40,000 volt coil
-MSD ignition wires
-stock single port manifold and 34 carb

please let me know any thing i can do to pep it up a little, not saying my car doesnt have power it can spin out on dry pavment and is pretty quick. much later in it life its going to be married with a 1835 or a 1914 motor. but for now id like to just get as much power out of it as i can. and please dont say dont waist your time and get a new motor, i dont have the funds just want to work with what i got.

[DarthWeber]

Go for it. (Almost) ANY dual carbs are better than a single. What are they Kads?

[vugbug68]

dual carbs, Kadrons if you can find single port manifolds for them or 34 webers.

a nice 1-3/8 header and quiet pack
034 svda or 019 distributor
_________________
71 Super - Backroad Thrasher
66 Corvair - Weekend Cruiser
90 4 Runner - Muddin

[low67vedub]

so far one kit is dual 34mm solexs or a 34 ict webers
should i still try to change it to dual port or stay with the single to save time and money.
and as far as performance goes how is my engine setup and what is a 019 distributor i thought the 009 was the S#!+

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Keep vedubin

[kingodirtp3]

for my 1600sp in my bus i've added SVDA distributor, weber ICTs, 1 3/8 header with single pac, and i got the turbo prep package work happening to the heads now from lowbugget. single port will run out of stream around 5k though. which is fine for a bus. i was told this set up would make me around 70hp with fast response. i am also in the process of adding a full flow kit with filter to the engine without splitting the case. the only thing i havent done is the 1.4 ratio rockers. i ran out of money. i get the heads back next week so i hope to be driving it by next weekend.

[low67vedub]

what is the turbo prep package?

[kingodirtp3]

Turbo Prep Your Heads $225 for the pair.
Port off all 4 Exhaust Guides For Turbo Use, Hand Blend/Shape all 4 Chambers Bore any size flycut and CC one chamber,stamp CC on head, 3 Angle Valve Job CNC style (gives perfic stem hight) with back-cut of Intake Valves,Cut Spring Boss for Dual Springs and Top valve Guide, Wash, Blow Dry, set spring install for your cam and rocker use, Oil and Assemble (Spring shims extra)

from lowbugget.com i told them what i wanted and they said just to get the package. the only thing i'm not doing in the package is the Cut Spring Boss for Dual Springs since i'm not changing cams or going with ratio rockers. but if u do go with ratio rockers you'll need to have hd single springs installed and solid rocker shafts. they said its good for 6-7hp and improves throttle response.

[Rome]

Yes, go for it. If your carbs are not yet plumbed for vacuum signal and you don't want to do that, then buy a good quality 009 mechanical advance distributor like the one sold by aircooled.net.

I've built 2 SP engines with dual carbs; one was a 1500 using the small-valve 1300 heads and the other is a 1776 with 1500 heads. Both had Engle 100 cams and 1 3/8" header; the carbs were KAdrons. They'd both cruise all day at 75-80mph and have decent acceleration and mid-range power for highway driving.

One thing you'll need is 2 plates to cover up the header's preheat tubes that went to the stock intake manifold carb preheat. You can buy these plates, or make your own. If you take the stock metal gasket which is shaped like a "rounded off diamond", cut out a piece of metal patch to cover the hole in the center of the gasket. Then install the gasket and its patch.

Also take the time and patience to adjust the carb linkage so that both carb throttle arms open at exactly the same time when you activate the linkage at the throttle cable... Depending on the carb brand and linkage that can take some fiddling but is essential for smooth operation.

[GlockCop]

My SP is pretty fast natch. I just put a 009 in and a header and BAM. Its pretty fast now.

[vugbug68]

[low67vedub]

I have a 009 centrifugal advance already

[youngnstudly]

If you look around, you can get deals on Kadron carbs (used) and manifolds aren't too tough to find either (but typically a little more money). I've been buying and saving the single port manifolds and kadron carbs for a while now and I like them better because they use the stock solex jetting that I can get from the local mechanic. Also, the Scat linkage is pretty nice for the money. Jetting and rebuild kits can be pretty specific for the Webers and Dells as well as more expensive and harder to find. You can use the 009 with kadrons successfully, and you can install an 019 later (when you get the money).

-Andy
_________________
Vintage Volkswagens: When you're not swearing by them, you're swearing at them

[fast Ed]

I'll tag on to this thread rather than start a new one, since my situation is very similar.

So if you guys had a choice, would you go for used Kadrons and have them rebuilt (I know one needs attention at the throttle shaft), or go for a new EMPI EPC 34 or Weber ICT 34 kit? The Kads by the time they are shipped to me, and redone, will end up costing about the same money as the EPC kit, and the ICT kit around $140 more. I've seen a few people on here mention that they have had decent success with the EPCs.

This would be for a stock 1500 SP in a 67 Beetle. Use the stock 67 vacuum distributor or go with a mechanical advance for sure? I'd also do a small aftermarket exhaust at the same time. Not expecting to run 13s with it, just looking to perk it up a bit for a few years until I get everything together for a Megasquirt / EDIS installation, and make the engine bay look a bit more sporty.


thanks,
Ed N.

[youngnstudly]

I wouldn't count on any of the new carb kits "running out of the box." They will all need at least a little attention (possibly something as simple as a float adjustment and jet changes...or much worse!). Do you research and don't be afraid of using the older Kadrons and having them rebuilt/rebushed. The kadrons can be the simplist and cheapest option when it comes to dual single barrel setups. Parts are very easy to get too.

I don't know that it's going to make a noticable difference between Mechanical and vacuum distributors if you do Kadrons. I'd do what ever the cheapest option is that you have since it sounds like this is temporary.

-Andy
_________________
Vintage Volkswagens: When you're not swearing by them, you're swearing at them

[fast Ed]

Thanks Andy, I am sort of leaning toward the Kads, anything EMPI sort of scares me right off the bat. I had an original Kadron set on my 72 Super back 25(ish) years ago on the stock 1600 DP, they worked pretty well on that with an 009 and a header.


thx,
Ed N.

[low67vedub]

what is the largest carb i can get for my single port and were can i get them. i dont want to go to big or i am afraid of to much carberation

[MO Turbo Manx]

Stick with the Kad's.
They're incredibly simple and very reliable.

Don't worry, single port heads don't run out of steam at 5000.

My stock-cammed 1600 single's last visit to the chassis dyno netted 154HP/180TQ and still climbing!
With boost, of course.
_________________
Manx-copy
1600 single port turbo
154HP and 180TQ AND STILL CLIMBING when the turbo thrust bearing let go:
http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq286/MOTurboManx/?action=view&current=Smoke.flv
[email protected], Nov. '08 at 141HP!

[Rome]

From what I've read, the 67's stock vac distrib is not suitable for a vacuum application on Kad's, or any other dual carbs that use a vacuum signal. For a vacuum signal you'd need the later VW stock distrib (~1971; it has a thicker/wider vacuum can than yours) or buy a new one from aircooled.net or others.

You must have the Kads properly drilled for vacuum though. On my 1776 SP with KAds, I am not using the vacuum signal, but have the good-quality 009 from aircooled.net. Costs about twice as much as the "cheap" 009 but there is no hesitation, and its a quality unit.

Back when I was planning my 1776, I got advice from a well-known old VW drag racer from CA. He had a 1776 with SP heads, Kads, and an Engle 110 cam. He told me that with that engine in his '67 Beetle (I don't know if the car was lightened alot) he would get into the high 15 sec. in the 1/4 mi !! But for that you also need reinforced valvetrain (HD springs, rocker shaft kit, HD pushrods, CW crank).

[W1K1]

Hi Ed
What do you think of the ride on your new car VS the Super?

We went the Kad route on Dorinda's old singleport motor, we bought the carbs for $50 and sent them to AJ and had them set up, rebushed, rebuilt, drilled for vac advance, SVDA distributor, Scat linkage.
once we adjusted the mixture and looked after the stock fuel pump pressure they preformed very well for us.
Yes they cost just as much as new ones but they came jetted for our application and they worked "out of the box" which was what we were looking for in our first set of dual carbs.

Later
Mark
_________________
1973 super 2110cc
1965 squareback 1500E-sold
1971 bay window westy- EJ2.5 subi swap

[Phoenix Rising]

I'm doing the same thing.
I have a nice running 1500SP but want to mount Dual 40/44 Solex Kadrons to it. Where do I find the intakes for this?
Thx in advance
Paul
(425) 578-4329
_________________
Titled 1956 Ragtop Bug with birth certificate (pan only) looking for solid 56 Ragtop Body
1958 Euro Bug 1641DP
1960 VW Bug 1600DP
1963 VW Bug metal sunroof (61 pan/64 Body) w/1776DP and dual Kadrons
1967 VW Bug Euro 1500cc front disk and dropped (for sale) $6,500 (See ad)
1970 VW Bay Bus Deluxe camper 1600DP
Looking for a nice 4 tab hood for my wife's 1960 Bug