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Limey, The Syncro 16 Westy. Was 2.5TDi, Now 2.2 20V Turbo!
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've removed the photos as they're soooo big and they take forever to load.

Here's a link to where they're hosted.

http://s690.photobucket.com/home/performanceghia

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://s690.photobucket.com/home/performanceghia

MG
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Last edited by SyncroGhia on Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah Mike, those files are huge. Just creeping in on my satellite connection.

If you want to shrink the filesize of high-res pics to post them, you can open the pic on your computer and do "Save as", and copy the pic in a smaller format like .png. The post the copy instead.
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know a guy who had that same E- baywindow! He got it working but before that it was in his driveway. One night he is sleeping with his window open and he hears some huffing and puffing out side. He looks out of the window and sees two dope fiends trying to suck gas out of it. He was in his room busting a gut because it dose not use gas Laughing He ran out there to kick some ass and they ran but he was still cracking up at how funny it was to watch them trying.
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1986 Syncro Doka
1987 Syncro Sevana beige Adventurewagen
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small running update,

After having changed some of the bits and pieces on Limey in an effort to regain economy and slightly less peformance (different ECU chips and nozzles again!) and having checked the pump timing and found it was a little retarded - now set perfectly (but this was only yesterday so this will show on the next tank full)... the first tank refill is promising at 29MPG for everyday driving. I'm hoping to see 32-33mpg on a long run.

I've also been having a few issues with Limey starting and while this looks to be down to a long term starter motor speed issue, a quick check over the glow plug system showed that not everything was as rosey as it should be! I decided to replace all the glow plugs (I did this 5 years ago so it's over due!) and found that 4 out of the 5 were completely dead. The 5th was only lighting up the very tip. Starting is now much more reliable but I'm still looking at why the starter motor turns the engine over fairly slowly.

Reasons for this could be
a) Battery at the front, engine at the back. Although I'm running a good thick cable from the battery, maybe a 2nd cable might improve things
b) Another startermotor? I've rebuilt this one several times but maybe it's just getting old. I may look for a replacement.
c) I guess just checking overall earthing from the battery and engine but I've had the gearbox earth off recenty when I had the gearbox out.

I'm going to carry out a test with 2 volt meters and see what the battery reads and what the startermotor reads while cranking... this should tell me if there is a voltage drop due to cables etc.

MG
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine would not start and it was the ground cable. So I got a new one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MILITARY-HUMVEE-ALT...19b92a931f
I did take the stater out (Pain in the neck) and tested it and there was some dragging so I will be rebuilding it soon I do keep a spare around.
I was thinking of getting a custom one.

http://www.hitorque.com/

http://www.mascostartersandalternators.com/Sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=4


Last edited by Alaric.H on Sat May 15, 2010 2:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Alaric.

I have the standard transmission exhaust cable and the Audi cable aswell connected to the engine mounting bar on the spare engine mount lug.

I think I'll take them off and clean up the surfaces tomorrow as it's still slow to start.

MG
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offroad.
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

congrats to you and kathryn mike. good to see you all had a good time in germany gutted i couldn`t make it but with the fuel consumption on the 2.1 i think it would have bankrupted me.

still no time to sort the tdi out.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well there's been a bit of lull of things happening with Limey as I've been launching my career as a Professional Cellist (no I'm not joking!) and working on cars and playing a classical instrument don't mix so it's been the bare essentials only!

I have managed to pick up another set of Fiamma brackets to add a third bracket for the F45 to give it more support. I also plan on making up a bracket which will fix to the side of the luggage rack with the fixing bolt there and hold the front section of the F45. I do however want to cut the fiamma bracket down the middle so it's half as thick rather than have a full width one.

I've pulled my spare 4.57 front diff out of hiding and have put the solid shaft in rather than a VC as I've never tried offroading with one. This will be swapped over in the next week and I'll also get to change an inner CV boot which has just started to split.

I've been looking at the front hubs (uprights) as they're catching the springs on full drop.

Something I noticed about Syncro 14 uprights (as this is what I'm running on Limey atm) is that they have a casting lump sticking out at the top on the side. You can see it on the upright on the left (this photo shows a Syncro 14 and Syncro 16 upright). Note that the syncro 16 upright is completely smooth.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I've also found that this casting is more pronounced on some than others and unfortunately they really stick out on the uprights on Limey and when the steering is turned on full lock (or close), this catches the spring coil and is making a mess. I'll be trimming this lump off so it's nice and smooth as per Syncro 16 uprights.

Next thing to look at is the rear brakes and upgrading to Porsche calipers again with Mercedes discs. Going all out on brakes like this does lead to handbrake (e-brake) issues... i.e. I won't have one!! I'm looking into using the Mercedes handbrake inside the rear disc but I'm not sure if the setup is too small to fit over the wheelbearing housing. I'll keep you updated as I move on.

I'll also be upgrading the servo with a BMW unit as per the usual upgrade.

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update today or yesterdays work.

I've bought a set of air vent scoops to help with the oil temps.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190402099628&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'd umm'd and ah'd about this particular product as the seller doesn't exactly rave about the quality in the auction but after having a look around, there really isn't anything else on the market for this kind of money and as I'm not a fibreglass guru... they'll have to do.

I've taken a few photos of what's involved in fitting which is fairly simple and the end result.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You have to remove the excess material here so the scoop will sit flush.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The holes at the top didn't line up when I first tried fitting the scoop to the vent so I had to open up one with a round file.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A bit wrinkly!!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One thing I'm not sure about is that while the vent's vertical lines are not paralell, the scoops vertical lines are and this leads to a mis-match.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The kit comes with instructions, screws and white (!) tie-wraps.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The instructions suggest just one (white!) tie wrap will be enough to wrap around the bottom rung on the vent. I looked at this and realised that this part is probably going to be taking the most stress so I drilled an extra 3 holes and used 2 (black) tie-wraps for a neater finish.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I pre-drilled the vent (2mm) to help with the screws supplied with the kit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And then fitted it to the van...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm going to do some test runs with and without the scoop (I'll just remove the vent) to see what the difference is in temps. The next stage will include a couple of motorbike radiator cooling fans on the oil cooler connected up to a thermo switch to kick in at 95oC and cut out at 90oC or something around that.

Oh, you can only get one of the fixing screws back into the vent after installing the scoop.

I have seen some other scoops on vans and they are a better fit to the vent, i.e. they come right to the front of the vent opening but then you need to have 2 holes in the scoop to get the screw driver through and grommets to fill the holes. I might yet do this on mine.

I also managed to find a 1968 only Bay window rear view mirror as ever since I installed the Westfalia rear roof storage cupboard, I've not been able to see out of the rear window properly! I wasn't sure about it to start off with as it sits right in the middle of the windscreen and I thought it would be a hazard rather than a help but I've found it to be quite the opposite. I can now see out the rear window very well and the mirror doesn't impede too much more than the standard position. I need to extend the support up to the windscreen to stop it from vibrating.

Some photos...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Both mirrors share the same ball/socket size so it's just a case of pulling the old one off and pushing the new one on.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have recently bought some parts from Busschmiede in Germany. After winning a decoupler (still can't believe that!), I took a look at their website and although it's in German, they have some very neat stuff on there for our vans.

I particularly liked the kit they sell for helping the TD engines which consists of a thermostat and radiator fan switch, both of which open and bring the fan in at lower temperatures. The thermostat opens at 80oC and the radiator fan switch operates at 80oC/85oC.

http://www.busschmiede.de/shop/T3-WASSER-KIT-fuer-TD-80-85-Thermosch-Thermostat-80

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'll be fitting these later on today and will report back about differences on how it runs re water temps.

The last thing I did yesterday was to tackle the slow starting issue. This has been dogging me for a while now and the last few trips out, I've been worried that it wouldn't start.

I grabbed both voltmeters, put one on the battery up front and connected the other to the terminals on the startermotor. Then I had a neighbour watch the voltmeter from the starter while I watched the one up front on the battery. On cranking, I saw a drop from 11.8V to 10V (which I would say is fairly normal), however my neighbour saw as low as 5.8V at the startermotor Shocked
Ok that'll be why it's struggling!
I quickly grabbed the jump leads (which now live inside the van!) and clipped one onto the block of the engine and sent it over inside the van to the negative terminal of the battery. All of a sudden the starting speed increased and the voltage drop at the starter was around 1V instead of 4V!!
Next I used the jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery and clipped the other end to a healthy point on the bodyshell up front and then tried again. Back to slow starting and 4V drop. Ok I've got an engine/gearbox earthing issue.
I spent the next 5 mins removing, cleaning and refitting the earth straps and what a difference!! Limey now starts easily Very Happy I wish I'd done this about 3 months ago!!

MG
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T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
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taigagreen
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SyncroGhia wrote:
Well there's been a bit of lull of things happening with Limey as I've been launching my career as a Professional Cellist (no I'm not joking!) and working on cars and playing a classical instrument don't mix so it's been the bare essentials only!


Mike, you inspire me Cool Some great and very innovative stuff on Limey there!

As much as I enjoy reading about your mods and thoughts, I´m most impressed by your career move. I´ve been a professional musician for a few years (drums/percussion), and I know there are at least five more on the norwegian forum. Are you freelancing? Best of luck with your new career Very Happy
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

taigagreen wrote:
SyncroGhia wrote:
Well there's been a bit of lull of things happening with Limey as I've been launching my career as a Professional Cellist (no I'm not joking!) and working on cars and playing a classical instrument don't mix so it's been the bare essentials only!


Mike, you inspire me Cool Some great and very innovative stuff on Limey there!

As much as I enjoy reading about your mods and thoughts, I´m most impressed by your career move. I´ve been a professional musician for a few years (drums/percussion), and I know there are at least five more on the norwegian forum. Are you freelancing? Best of luck with your new career Very Happy


Hi Tage,
Thanks buddy. I'm freelancing at the moment as well as teaching but it's very slow!! not much work coming in. I'm surviving on selling off parts but I will run out of parts at some point!!

A musicians life is not easy and certainly not well paid but I'd prefer to be happy than rich Smile

Mike
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syncrosimon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Mike, I have the fan switch from Busschmeide as well, it is very nice and controls the fan much better, it has not had to kick into high speed yet, as it seems (with the stat) to keep everything just a little more under control.

Simon.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Simon,
Good to hear that someone else has used this kit in UK with good results.

How's the 16?

MG
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syncrosimon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had Aidan Talbot re-build my gearbox, and she is now running sweet as a nut. We are going up to Sweden in her in August.

Devon to Harwich, ferry to Hook of Holland, drive to Fynshav, ferry to an island in Denmark where we will camp by the sea. On to Copenhagen for a few days, another campsite by the sea. Then across the Oresund Bridge which is the longest combined road and rail bridge in Europe at over 5 miles, to Sweden. Have a quick look around Ystad (where Wallander is filmed)(uk and Swedish TV Cop), then ferry from Trelleborg to Sassnitz in the old Eastern Germany, drive down to Berlin for a few days, then back via Hanover to the Hook.

Fingers triple crossed that she goes ok.

Simon.
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Thinking about Thing or 181 (182) ownership.
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Alaric.H
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SyncroGhia wrote:
An update today or yesterdays work.

I've bought a set of air vent scoops to help with the oil temps.



I'd umm'd and ah'd about this particular product as the seller doesn't exactly rave about the quality in the auction but after having a look around, there really isn't anything else on the market for this kind of money and as I'm not a fibreglass guru... they'll have to do.

I've taken a few photos of what's involved in fitting which is fairly simple and the end result.












You have to remove the excess material here so the scoop will sit flush.










The holes at the top didn't line up when I first tried fitting the scoop to the vent so I had to open up one with a round file.





A bit wrinkly!!



One thing I'm not sure about is that while the vent's vertical lines are not parallel, the scoops vertical lines are and this leads to a mismatch.



The kit comes with instructions, screws and white (!) tie-wraps.



The instructions suggest just one (white!) tie wrap will be enough to wrap around the bottom rung on the vent. I looked at this and realised that this part is probably going to be taking the most stress so I drilled an extra 3 holes and used 2 (black) tie-wraps for a neater finish.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I pre-drilled the vent (2mm) to help with the screws supplied with the kit.














And then fitted it to the van...







I'm going to do some test runs with and without the scoop (I'll just remove the vent) to see what the difference is in temps. The next stage will include a couple of motorbike radiator cooling fans on the oil cooler connected up to a thermo switch to kick in at 95oC and cut out at 90oC or something around that.

Oh, you can only get one of the fixing screws back into the vent after installing the scoop.

I have seen some other scoops on vans and they are a better fit to the vent, i.e. they come right to the front of the vent opening but then you need to have 2 holes in the scoop to get the screw driver through and grommets to fill the holes. I might yet do this on mine.

I also managed to find a 1968 only Bay window rear view mirror as ever since I installed the Westfalia rear roof storage cupboard, I've not been able to see out of the rear window properly! I wasn't sure about it to start off with as it sits right in the middle of the windscreen and I thought it would be a hazard rather than a help but I've found it to be quite the opposite. I can now see out the rear window very well and the mirror doesn't impede too much more than the standard position. I need to extend the support up to the windscreen to stop it from vibrating.











Some photos...


I have recently bought some parts from Busschmiede in Germany. After winning a decoupler (still can't believe that!), I took a look at their website and although it's in German, they have some very neat stuff on there for our vans.

I particularly liked the kit they sell for helping the TD engines which consists of a thermostat and radiator fan switch, both of which open and bring the fan in at lower temperatures. The thermostat opens at 80oC and the radiator fan switch operates at 80oC/85oC.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'll be fitting these later on today and will report back about differences on how it runs re water temps.

The last thing I did yesterday was to tackle the slow starting issue. This has been dogging me for a while now and the last few trips out, I've been worried that it wouldn't start.

I grabbed both voltmeters, put one on the battery up front and connected the other to the terminals on the startermotor. Then I had a neighbour watch the voltmeter from the starter while I watched the one up front on the battery. On cranking, I saw a drop from 11.8V to 10V (which I would say is fairly normal), however my neighbour saw as low as 5.8V at the startermotor Shocked
Ok that'll be why it's struggling!
I quickly grabbed the jump leads (which now live inside the van!) and clipped one onto the block of the engine and sent it over inside the van to the negative terminal of the battery. All of a sudden the starting speed increased and the voltage drop at the starter was around 1V instead of 4V!!
Next I used the jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery and clipped the other end to a healthy point on the bodyshell up front and then tried again. Back to slow starting and 4V drop. Ok I've got an engine/gearbox earthing issue.
I spent the next 5 mins removing, cleaning and refitting the earth straps and what a difference!! Limey now starts easily Very Happy I wish I'd done this about 3 months ago!!

MG
I did say a thicker ground strap was needed if you put the gas and diesel stater side by side the diesel stater is almost double the size and pulls a lot more current.What cable did you run for positive the stock size is 4/0.I posted a good size ground strap a few post back.
That Thermostat and switch will work great I have used that combo for a couple of years now only problem is it takes a long time to heat up in the winter. I did not even know my fan was not working for a year until some climes in colorado.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Alaric,

I'm using both the stock Syncro front gearbox earth strap and the Audi engine earth strap so should have enough with both.

The Audi earth strap needed cleaning up the most and made the biggest difference. It now starts first time, every time! I'll check on the positive lead size next time I'm working on it.

I got the spare diff in today with the solid shaft rather than the VC. Having driven it around the estate, I'm really suprised how easy it is on the 4WD.. then again I am running on Muds all the time now so I expect that they are taking most of the brunt of it. I'm not experiencing 'wind up' at all and the decoupler is still happy to engage and dis-engage on the fly.

Oh, I'm trying out a new set of chips in the ECU which are supposed to be good for about 160-170bhp so we'll see how it goes tomorrow Laughing

MG
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a few photos of the decoupler from Busschmiede. There have been a few discussions on here about the differences between decouplers on the market and I have a few photos of other decouples including the one I use on Limey so I thought I'd post them up here.

First the Busschmiede decoupler:

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Now the decoupler which I have on Limey which is a Stefan unit which Syncro Services supply.

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The only difference I've seen between the Busschmiede and Stefan decouplers is the design of the teeth for the gear to engage. The Busschmiede unit teeth are just chamfered off where as the Stefan unit teeth are specifically designed in a similar fashion to those on synchroniser slider rings.

Here is a unit which I've seen advertised in the U.S. which doesn't have a bearing or bush in the end of the output shaft which would support the shaft. This part comes up against the end of the pinion shaft so damage here is very serious.

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MG
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T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
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buspor63
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Joined: February 17, 2005
Posts: 1179
Location: Knoxville,TN Where America stops for gas
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whew....I think I finally finished all 10 pages. The thread is great! I love the pics and stories. As I drive my Syncro, just affter doing mundane things like install the rebuilt trans and then rebuild the CV joints, your expereince pumps me up. Makes it all the more difficult to decide which Vanagon to keep, the 2WD Westy I've had for 16 years or jump all in with the Syncro GL....... Just today, the kids and I did about 10 miles of forest service roads in east Tennessee, awesome!
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SyncroGhia
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Joined: August 21, 2009
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Location: Highnam, UK
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buspor63,

Why not have both and use all the Westfalia parts in the Syncro?
There have been a few documented westy conversions now.

Either that or convert your westfalia to syncro. Neither job is a small one and if someone asked me again which way I'd go if I wanted to have a Syncro 16 Westy, I'd have to sit and think!!

Thanks re thread... I'm looking forward to gettting the van in paint at some point but it's a way off yet while I get something else 4x4 on the road in the mean time.

MG
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T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD
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