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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smokin_dodge wrote:
D Clymer wrote:
I think your welds look fine. At the rate you're going, I think you'll get it put together before August 14th. Keep up the good work Smile

David


i agree - i will add though that i would bevel all of your metal when you fit it - allowing for maximum penetration - and a double pass always helps


I will say this about grinding - the way i was taught is that if the weld is cosmetic then grinding is ok - but if the weld is on a structural piece or the piece is going to be holding any form of weight - then it should not be ground

i couldnt tell on the one piece where you welded it around...but i wouldnt grind any weld seeing as this is a first time this form of swap is done

just my $.02


Actually the surface roughness can cause fractures to form, grinding the weld leaves it with a smoother finish which is less prone to cracking. FWIW
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presslab
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job man, can't wait to see how it turns out! Your welds look ok to me. Looks like the frame will be plenty strong as well after reinforcements.
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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motor mounts are welded as much as possible without removing the e/t.

the trans cross mount is next.
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mathieux46
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey man,

That a great thread... Seems like we have good new ideas threads these days, the subaru transmission now the middie... wow!

Mat
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello!!
just for fun,do you know the 1000 HP Vanagon,with a middle engine too?? Shocked

http://www.vwbus.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=17552
http://www.mamut.net/vwbustuningshop/
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Raketemensch
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALIKA T3 wrote:
Hello!!
just for fun,do you know the 1000 HP Vanagon,with a middle engine too?? Shocked

http://www.vwbus.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=17552
http://www.mamut.net/vwbustuningshop/


Holy mother of Jeebus, that thing is nuts. Beautiful specimen to start with, even.
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have until the end of july to finish the heavy lifting on this project before i move out of my cool shop, so I have been as busy
as an elf these last 4 weeks.

the motor mounts are in. the transmission bridge is painted and in. the exhaust is 80% done. [just today] and the induction system
is ready. i still need the ss radiator tubing, which i may be able to do, although this week I want to be finished with the major
systems, so the e/t will come out once more for the grinding and final welding of the hole.
the right trail arm will get the flush treatment so I don't get bone bruises during maintenance.

the final frontier will be the half shafts. i may have to clearance and ring the trail arms for half shafts. maybe this week.
I am wearing down a bit on this project.

I accidentally deleted my broadband driver, and at&t wants 200.00 to reload me. for only 3/4 of a month, I think not. I will probably
cancel them asap and save the dough. I will have cable in my new res. late aug.

so, this is todd wieland, signing off probably until late august. can't get photos either...ciao


Last edited by thummmper on Sun Aug 15, 2010 2:11 pm; edited 2 times in total
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you say halfshafts,is it axle driveshafts?

if you measure diameter and number of splines on the output flanges ,I can tell you is the Delorean one will fit.then you'll just have to find shorter shafts onlinewith 33 splines Idea

I'm leaving tomorrow for vacation,back the 3rd .... Wink
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i finished the headers- theyre a little ugly- but they will work.
I have the e/t back out again for the last time. i am welding up the last bits in the engine room and dressing everything down
with my little grinder- i have already started the move south-this place is so small I was crawling under the floor laying visqueen
[sheet plastic] for box storage- raking down the lumps of dirt, etc. there's a lot of room under a house.
the intake/hatch hinge bridge is complete and stronger than before. I opened up the hole a little more on the sides,
so it is as wide as the hatch now.
I cut and welded the right trailing arm, eliminating some of the lip inboard.
i happily kicked the cribbing out from under the van and swept the dust away so I could scoot around on the creeper again.
almost ready to paint all the bare metal. she's gonna be a looker


Last edited by thummmper on Sun Aug 15, 2010 2:12 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is it doing man??

Wink
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am back online again!!! I had to dismantle my mezzanine in my shop and just 4 days ago had all 5 of my steel beams
trucked off to my cousins barn project at weasil works.
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the e/t is back in and will only come out one more time for resealing and detailing. I like to paint all the black stuff grey.
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deck violation of 2.5" will still hide under a westy-height seat. a 3" deck structure will level it over the top of the throttle bodies.
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here the exhaust is in place and has room for improvement, but works.
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the trans bridge in place
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--you can finally see the relation of the mounts to the suspension
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I cut away the short bulkhead in the old engine room and welded rectangular tubing with a ring tube for the plastic induction
system, but I am changing that to a steel manifold that is slammed to the side for more access room. [not made yet]
so she is sitting on the drive full of loose parts. I will get side photos when I roll her out so you can see the stance. It is nearly
level with a semi droopy exhaust system. [fixable]
I will use 16" mercedes wheels and the eagle 60 series tires I kept. they are 25.5" tall and I wont need to play the tall tire
games anymore.
so my mouth waters a bit when a late audi goes by. I just want those G60's.


Last edited by thummmper on Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:07 pm; edited 5 times in total
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240Gordy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow again. Shocked
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the stance isnt bad either
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the exhaust will be reconfigured to lay up higher for more ground clearance
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fredn
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job. I have been lurking on this thread admiring your work. Looks solid. Thanks for sharing it.
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep it up, thummper - this thing looks awesome already! Keep sweating the details and show us how it's done! Nice work!
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JustBuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is really an ambitious project and youre're pulling it off in grand style! Keep up the good work!!! Cool

I've been looking at engine/transaxle combinations to repower my kit car (my avatar). This looks like it might be just the ticket.

Two questions:

1. If you could measure for me, what is the distance between the extreme front of the engine and the centerline of the transaxle.

2. How many horsepower will the transaxle take?

I ask that because if I do one of these I know that I'm going to match it up to a turbocharger. Will this tranny take 400 HP?
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the distance from the diff c line to the bell seam is 8". the trans is 19" long and the et is 39" from crank pulley to tail
cone mount ears.
I think the engine is 21", + the 8" is 29", maybe. look at the first 2 pages here--I don't have those numbers in front of me now.
go look also on the vanagonlhs site, link at bottom for pics and notes. its all there. I was sure to measure everything before I
started so I didnt get hoof in mouth disease. nice to see your interest--welcome!
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the prowler is 254 hp. as auto trans's go, you probably could put 400 hp through it--the transfer chain and spiders would be
the go-to's on that
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JustBuggy
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thummmper wrote:
the distance from the diff c line to the bell seam is 8". the trans is 19" long and the et is 39" from crank pulley to tail
cone mount ears.
I think the engine is 21", + the 8" is 29", maybe. look at the first 2 pages here--I don't have those numbers in front of me now.
go look also on the vanagonlhs site, link at bottom for pics and notes. its all there. I was sure to measure everything before I
started so I didnt get hoof in mouth disease. nice to see your interest--welcome!......
......the prowler is 254 hp. as auto trans's go, you probably could put 400 hp through it--the transfer chain and spiders would be
the go-to's on that


Darn it anyway!!!! Mad I only have 18-20 inches center of my wheels to back of my seat. Looks like I'm going to have to use something else. Mad

Do they use the same trans internals in any of the transverse mounted engine cars using the same engine?

Thanks for the measurements. Keep up the good work!
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be 21" and a slip of 1.5 aft might get'erdone, but you will need room for maintenance. what are the dims of your engine bay?
must you honor the underside horizon lines? [ground clearance]
its 25" high.
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