Decommissioning a gas heater

[bigbore]

It makes it confusing when you post more then one thread on the a topic so STOP IT.
Now as I said parts for these are hard to impossible to get as you will find and you will find use parts will be no good some times and finding out when things burst into flames is a bad time. Iam restoring my BN4 for my 71 westy only because it came with it from new Iam having to make new diaphams for my fuel pump and regulator because they are hard as a rock no good they can't be gotten new that I have found so they have to be made and made right or you know what can happen! with out constant up keep because of there age these heaters can be dangerous they burn gas (as if you didn't know that) I CAN'T STRESS THAT ENOUGH. people like with other things in life and in there cars ignore things this isn't one of them.
Ok enough with my safety lesson for now as I was saying in the other thread if your bus didn't already have one or you really wanted one I would look to something newer up to date burns less fuel less power you get part easier and its safer to run like a propane or even better a diesel heater. Unless you have a cook stove or other stuff in your bus that runs on propane then diesel tank is way easier to mount and for as little fuel they burn a 2 or 3 gal tank will last quite a while. The one Iam putting in my 70 westy Iam putting a tank and coach battery both on the driver side of the engine bay I will be doing a thread on its install you can if these heaters all over the net they are small and have high output diesel puts out more then propane per gal.
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where its cold and snowy

[bigbore]

[notchboy]

Do you need any material for your pumps-diaphragm? Old Russ Wolfe gave me some, allot actually, so I need to pay some forward.
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[bigbore]

I have a small piece it is just a little thiner then the original I got 0.012 the original is more like 0.015 but it took me over a year to find this. How much do you have? I was surprised the diaphragm in my old 1957 pump in my B2 was still like new man the rubber they used back then was second two none.
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where its cold and snowy

[obnoxiousblue]

Well, I learned ALOT today. But the bus is in pieces so I'm very anxious. It's out of the garage and up on stands. Since its a daily, I'm kinda out. But thankfully I work two blocks away...

I started with the manual (online, through my iPad), and the simple things. I pulled the knob and went to the back to hit the reset on the heater. The motor began to spin, but I didn't hear any clicking from the pump. So, I went to check the thermostat cable, and made sure it was pulled up all the way. After breaking it free with some PB blaster, it moves freely now, and I can see it moving the lever on the thermostat. Still no pump clicks. I do feel a breeze coming out of the outlet under the rear seat, it's just not hot.

I also checked fuel delivery to the pump, and found that when I removed the fuel line from the pump, fuel did come out freely. Next, I removed the fuel pump from the heater and took both ends off and cleaned it well with some carb cleaner. I made sure both the input and output were clear and reassembled it. I put power to it and the piston moves freely. One way when I apply 12V, the opposite way when I remove the 12V. Figuring it was the points that "applied" and "removed" 12V I went to the wires coming from the heater:
There is one that green, one that's brown with white, and a brown ground. I put a test light on the green, and the other end on the brown/white and turned on the heater. I heard the motor spinning, but anticipated (if the points were running) that the light would flash. Nothing happened.

Anticipating the points are bad, I removed the heater from the bus. And in trying to get to the thermostat (which is behind a small access hole cut into the firewall) removed the bolts holding the the mustache bar and the cradle bolts from the top engine mount to lower the engine an inch or two in anticipation of completely removing the firewall. Though (I know I'm gonna get yelled at for this) it turned out to be much more efficient to just bend the firewall forward a bit for me to stick my hand in.

So now, I know I have power. I know the pump is working when it gets power. It is getting fuel.

What is my next step?
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[busdaddy]

[thewalrus]

[busdaddy]

[obnoxiousblue]

Thanks Busdaddy, as always you're right on cue.

So you're of the opinion based on my experimentation that the points are likely the suspect as well?

Am I on the right path here, or should I be looking elsewhere for my cause?
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[busdaddy]

If the pump clicks while bench testing but there's no light when you connect a test light between the 2 pump wires on the heater the points on the dirty end of the fan are the next step. This assumes you confirmed there was power at the green wire when the heater was running (other end of test light to ground) and the brown/white wire was not grounding (test light between it and battery + while heater running). If you had the pump apart please tell me you didn't move the skinny jam nut one little bit because the piston stroke determines the fuel delivery and now you'll have to recalibrate if it's messed up. It's not hard, just an added step to prevent combustion chamber burnout or not enough heat (glow plug burnout).
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[obnoxiousblue]

I didn't move the jamb nut I've been reading everything you've told me to! LOL

The wires with the test light did behave as you've said.
Glad this is at least going somewhat well!
It makes all my stressing today not seem so bad.

More later!
While I know I'll be posting and picking your brain more, I really appreciate your help!
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[obnoxiousblue]

While I'm doing the heater, I'm replacing all the fuel lines on my bus. It seemed like the right time.

I'm trying to find if anyone has any opinion on the best type.

I bought the Fuel Line kit from German Supply, which came with crimp-type hose clamp:

Are those good, secure clamps or are the roller style better?

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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[skills@eurocarsplus]

your bottom photo will work just fine, and you can get them at mcmaster-carr.

if you are going to run the bn4 (or any other heater) it is pretty important that your cut in/cut out temerature is measured/adjusted correctly, and the safteys are tested and ready to do their job.

super simple/safe system when properly used and adjusted
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[busdaddy]

Either are fine, the screw type are removeable and reuseable roadside so consider emergency repairs as a factor. Avoid the worm style ones with the slotted bands if at all possible.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[bigbore]

[obnoxiousblue]

[busdaddy]

[RatCamper]

Those things are neat. Mind if I ask some questions? first is vernacular based.
By Gas do you mean Gasoline or Propane? I'm assuming the former.

Is there some form of heat exchange in there? I'd imagine so, otherwise you might as well just be piping the engine exhaust into the cabin.

Do they have a special outlet or do they connect to the main heater conduit?
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[obnoxiousblue]

RatCamper, I'm sure one of the pros will chime in. But from what I'm learning on my bus...

This is a gasoline heater, not propane. It siphons fuel from the supply to the engine to generate heat. I'm curious to through if it can be made to run n propane. I'd assume it could be done, since most house generators have propane conversion kits too... I'm just not sure.

On one end of the heater unit there is an orange impeller fan. That draws air into the heater. There is optional white/opaque plastic ducting that can be routed up to the cabin to act as recirculating heat. Other heaters, have a gray guard over the orange impeller to draw in fresh air.

The BN4, unlike some other heaters is a complete standalone system and has nothing to to (at least in my situation) with the stock heat exchangers. Though, I have seen some literature which suggests that it can be tied into the stock ducting particularly in the 181's (?)

In the type 2, the "heat" end has a duct that goes through the firewall, along the drivers side rear wheel well, then comes out under the rear bench.

I'm sure one of the guys will affirm or correct me soon.
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[bigbore]

Looking through the Manuel the late model BN4 had a option for a wall mount thermostat anyone seen one of those? I would like to find one.
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where its cold and snowy