New Rear Heater Core/Blower Alternative

[James 93SLC]

With spring around the corner and temps this week predicted in the mid 40's, I thought it would be a good time to finally get my new rear heater installed Nothing like waiting till after the fact...LOL

Anyway, a few summers back the original rear core failed and soaked the carpet. I ended up replacing the old nasty dirty gray OE carpet with some indoor/outdoor from Lowe's. I must say it matched great. When it came to replacing the heater, I wasn't too thrilled with using the OE setup with plastic ends, plus my blower was beginning to squeak. I checked out Summit Racing and found an aux setup that looked almost identical to the original in hookup and size for $150 (I paid less since it was on sale at the time). What I really liked about the Summit heater was that is was an all metal core.

Install was super easy. I had to modify one of the brackets to clear the wires where they came through the floor. The inlet/outlets were identical to the vans hose size, and the included pigtail made wiring it to the original van wires easy. Just snipped the old plug off and wired it up. All 3 speeds worked off the original switch (the heater did come with its own if you need one).

This does eliminate the shutoff valve, but my VR6 conversion needs the coolant flow all the time in order to keep the coolant flowing to the cyl. head. I may plumb in a bypass underneath the van at some point.

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91 Vanagon Carat
93 Corrado SLC
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Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/slc.corrado
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tencentlife "Sometimes a pooka is a problem and sometimes it's just a pooka"

[Forthwithtx]

That seems to be about as simple as it gets. Did you happen to crack open the case to see the core yourself? I went to the site. Which one is it?

In my case, the toe kick has a specific opening for the VW heater outlet dimensions, so it would be a mod to that to get the proper outlet flow (or heated rear seats!).

I like these hacks. Still looking for a really good one (close to direct bolt-in) for the front that will keep me from spending boutique prices.

[kustomizingkid]

I like that setup... It looks like it could be factory!

[James 93SLC]

Yes, I did pop off the front grill to check out the core. It was all metal with copper connections.

Here is the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991105-1

My kick panel has little rubber flaps that direct the airflow at the sides. This heater has a higher opening, so I'll either mod the original or just fab a new panel. Not a hard job.
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91 Vanagon Carat
93 Corrado SLC
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Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/slc.corrado
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tencentlife "Sometimes a pooka is a problem and sometimes it's just a pooka"

[Zeitgeist 13]

I really like that unit, and could use it or one Summit has that's similar but has ducts, on another project. I've been looking for a bypass heater valve, but have only found electrical or vacuum actuated units, or a three port ball valve from an RV. Anyone located a good cable operated bypass heater valve?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH
'01 Weekender --> full camper
NEAT, no ICE.

[svenakela]

That was a sweet replacement. I found a heater core for a Euro camper van but it was way to bulky.

You could add a shutoff with a 3 way valve, right at the ports.

If you still have the fan freely available take the time and pull in a battery wire and hook up some relays instead of running the fan current all the way to the dash board switch and back. It will save your fan switch from burning and you will have much better voltage/current feeding the fan.
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Vanagon mirror end caps

[James 93SLC]

How would you do the 3 speeds using relays? The different voltages come from the switch right now.

[squeegee_boy]

[DeadSetMonkey]

Did the new unit mate up with the kick-board when the bench seat went back in?
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'90 Syncro Westy 2.5Subi Turbo, BFGs 215/75/15 Rheins

[James 93SLC]

You know, now that you mention it,I do recall seeing that on the old blower.

What is odd, is that when I tested with my meter to see which wire was low/med/high I found it gave progressively higher voltages. I think it started at 7.9 and then 9.8, and then finally 12V. Maybe that's due to an aging switch?