No Idle on 1500 Single Port

[PapaKoch]

I would appreciate any advice/suggestions as to the cause.
Has anyone ever experienced these problems before?
Thank you for reading!

I have not been able to get the bus to idle since December.
Although dying at idle is the primary issue, there are some other nuances to the problem.
There is sufficient power in first and second, but very limited power in 3rd and 4th gear.
The valve cover gasket for number 1 and 2 cylinders only lasts for one day/drive.
The gasket will leak and/or expand sometimes getting sucked in between the rocker arms and pushrod tubes.

The engine only runs at high RPMs with extremely rich gas.
The engine also dies/lags when gas is applied (I think this colloquially called a flat spot).
Unfortunately, this happens all time.

I spent several days in past few months trying to resolve the issues and all day yesterday, but if anything the problem is worse.
Since Cruise the Coop is coming up this weekend, I am at my wits end with it.

Here is a list of things I have tried so far:
Adjusted valves
Adjusted timing with static timing light
Adjusted timing by ear
Adjusted Carb (2.5 turns out on gas and idle screws)
New points in distributor (009 Distributor)
Adjusted points to factory gap of .016in
Adjusted points to open more than factory gap
Made sure plug wires were firmly secured to cap spark plugs
Drain and fill oil (2.5 quarts)
Changed carb to Solex 30 Pict -3 (rebuilt)
Changed carb to Brosol 30/31 (New)
New cork valve cover gasket (no permatex)
New rubber valve cover gasket (no permatex)

Cross-Post from:
http://www.volksfolks.org/forums/air-cooled-vw-tech/no-idle-on-1500-single-port/

[aeromech]

Could you please post some pictures of your engine? Also, knowing where you are helps a lot. Most people include that info along with what kind of bus you have in their signature line.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Randy in Maine]

Stick your dwell meter on that green coil wire and tell us just how good you are at getting the points to the 47º +/- 3º.

then time the engine using a real timing light. Set that fine 009 distributor to 30º +/- 2º when all of the centrifical advance it has to offer is all in at about 3500 RPMs.

Set the idle to the correct 850 RPMs +/- 50 RPMs.

Report back your findings.

[aeromech]

If it won't idle at all and you've tried two separate carburetors I'd guess you might have a large vacuum leak somewhere.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[busdaddy]

[Tcash]

As part of a tune up. You should
Lubing the Distributor

dying at idle
sufficient power in first and second
engine also dies/lags when gas is applied (flat spot)

valve cover gasket for number 1 and 2 cylinders only lasts for one day
Make sure the hose under the oil fill cap is not kinked or clogged.


Here is a list of things I have tried so far:
Adjusted valves. To what specifications?
Here are a few vids
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpH7VftH3_I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQ9ccGXtZL0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3MgWSXTwWQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isYX7b5r5Ng
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozht-_iu3Ew
Adjusted timing with static timing light
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=787INwvir24
Adjusted timing by ear
Adjusted Carb (2.5 turns out on gas and idle screws)
http://www.volkzbitz.com/34pict-3---4-and-h30-31-adjustments.html
New points in distributor (009 Distributor)
009's are known for having a flat spot. Rich mix helps.
Adjusted points to factory gap of .016in
It would be better to use a dwell meter and set them to 50*
Adjusted points to open more than factory gap
Made sure plug wires were firmly secured to cap spark plugs
You could check for a high tension leak.
Ignition High Tension Leaks
Drain and fill oil (2.5 quarts)
Did the oil smell like gas?
Changed carb to Solex 30 Pict -3 (rebuilt)
Changed carb to Brosol 30/31 (New)

New cork valve cover gasket (no permatex)
New rubber valve cover gasket (no permatex)
Check your breather hose as mentioned.
Also put the valve cover up against the head with no gasket and make sure it is not bent. Make sure the bailing wire is in its holes on the end and has the same amount of tension as the one that is not leaking.
Glue the gasket to the valve cover, and let the glue set so the gasket is not squessed out when you install it.

[Tcash]

[PapaKoch]

[PapaKoch]

[aeromech]

Does the engine rotate normally when turned over by hand?
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[PapaKoch]

[PapaKoch]

Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I will take anything I can get. Ha! Ha!

Last night, I decided to start over from scratch. When I pulled the valve covers off to adjust the valves, there WAS gas in the oil even though that oil had only been in engine for 24 hours. So, I replaced the fuel pump. I also adjusted the valves to .006, adjusted the points to .016, put the newly cleaned out 30 pict carb on, used static timing light, and drained and filled the oil. By that time, it was late and I did not want to wake the neighbors.

Tonight test firing and engine analyzing is on the agenda. If the engine does not fire up right off, I may need to dig deeper. Although, I do not have a real timing light or a compression tester, I feel like those may be on shopping list soon.

I will post back with my findings and updated pictures. With all this time behind the engine these past few days, I have been able to clean it up quite a bit!

[Green70]

Do a compression test. If the numbers are low, you might be able to get it running, but not well. Also, do what Randy in Maine suggested and do the timing with a real timing light. You need to know that its correct at full advance.

[Malokin Martin]

[sodbuster]

Did you check the electric idle valve on the carb? With the ignition turned on remove the wire from the idle valve then touch it back to the connection spade of the valve several times. The valve should make an audible click when you do that. If it clicks it should be good to go. if you hear no click coming from the idle valve its most likely bad. Double check the 12v power source for the idle valve to be sure. If it tests bad or has no voltage your engine won't idle.

[airschooled]

[PapaKoch]

I had it running rough when I first started working last night. Unfortunately, it ran rough like this for two minutes, but never fired off again even thought a put on a new coil and a different vacuum advance distributor. Video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/D7Cr0ZeqsAE

[PapaKoch]