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Erik G
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 13544
Location: Tejas!
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:27 am Post subject: |
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I have been thinking about this a while, and the stuff I ordered is starting to roll in.
For my double cab, I'm putting subs under the rear seat. 2 12inch AudioQue dual 4ohm VC's. I'm going to run them 1 ohm off the D class channel of a JBL 5 channel amp. The box is big, and it might not fit, it's going to be really close, we'll see later this week. I think I may be able to cut some groves in the box to get it to work with the DC seat pedistal if I need to. It's a bandpass vented box, 1.25ft for each sub, tuned to 39hz. The amp should be pushing 900+ watts at 1ohm to the sub channel. For the front, I had been thinking of the 6inch Schedule 40 PVC end cap idea I've seen people use for boats and ATV's, like what was used above but bigger. Instead, temporarily, I found some Pyle (I know) marine speakers in a little box with a bracket, similar to outdoor home speakers but 4ohm. 6 1/2 with a tweeter. My thought is they are cheap, and if the box/mount works under the dash, I can always put some seperates in the boxes. If I don't like them, I will go for the PVC endcap idea. Also, a Sony bluetooth deck with an underdash kit, bolted up under the front underdash tray.
I love ebay, none of this stuff is cheepo (except the pyle 6 1/2's) yet shopping around I paid less than half price. $10 on the underdash new, $40 on the $200 sony (scratched factory return) $195 on the $400 JBL Amp (scratched factory return) $55 per sub, half off manufacturer close out. 4 guage and a Capacitor was like $45.
I don't really like the idea of the front speakers under the dash firing at my knees, but I cant really think of a better way. I don't know what I'm going to do for the rear yet either. I've seen some creative solutions lately that may work
I have no other electrics in the truck. Should I bite the bullet and go with the 75 amp alternator. Will the 55 work? I have a 12v gen now so either way I think thats gotta go lol
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Erik G
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 13544
Location: Tejas!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:48 am Post subject: |
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This is what I bought for the front. We'll see once they get here
I had thought about something like this, double sided tape on the back, for the rear. Ugly and the boxes are tiny. Not sure about that part yet
some PVC end cap speaker pod redneckery
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1madmanx
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2007
Posts: 686
Location: Wilmington, NC
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| Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| OxonPhil wrote: |
Here are some pics of my install......not the biggest system, but nice and crisp 
I did have a sub, but it had to make room for a gas heater  (British summers ).
I think that's about it, hope it was some help ?
Phil. |
I just got finished installing my rear speakers but didn't want to cut any cabinets or panels. I saw Phil's picnic basket and borrowed/stole the idea.
I originally wanted a vintage basket but didn't want to spend the big $$ for one. So I bought this one on-line for $40 brand new:
Then made a wooden stand for the speakers and covered it with the material from the bottom of the basket:
Trying to keep with the period, I placed the basket in the back of the bus. My speaker wires come down from the ceiling through the corner cabinet and out the back side (gap). The wires are long enough to place the basket on the rear bench seat or the fold out table if I wanted. I also put disconnects on the speaker wires that poke through the back of the basket in case I want to remove it completely. Most surprising is the sound even with the basket closed - which it is most of the time. Since the basket is weaved the sound is not muffled at all. Pretty cheap solution without any custom work or cutting.
Bud
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Bud (1Madmanx)
Wilmington, NC
'68 Meyers Manx Dune Buggy M1996F826S
'66 Kombi Bus
'73 Thing
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marklaken
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004
Posts: 2416
Location: fort collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Erik G wrote: |
... 2 12inch AudioQue dual 4ohm VC's. I'm going to run them 1 ohm off the D class channel of a JBL 5 channel amp... some Pyle (I know) marine speakers in a little box with a bracket...Also, a Sony bluetooth deck with an underdash kit, bolted up under the front underdash tray.
I have no other electrics in the truck. Should I bite the bullet and go with the 75 amp alternator. Will the 55 work? I have a 12v gen now so either way I think thats gotta go lol |
Are you running one or two batteries? I have a 75 amp alternator and a deep cycle battery (for the stereo) hooked via relay to the main battery. I often run the 2nd battery all the way down until my amp cuts out (about 10.8 volts on the second battery). The 75 amp alternator is nice because it quickly recharges the second battery enough that I can listen to the stereo driving to the my next destination...
my system is a 10" JL sub, MB Quartz 5 channel amp, kenwood head unit, and 4 mb quartz 6" mids with crossovers and separate tweeters. It will run several hours at modest volume before the deep cycle battery is too low to power the amp. The interior irracadescent lights run many more hours on the remaining battery power (quiet time)...
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marklaken
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004
Posts: 2416
Location: fort collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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I made an xcel spreadsheet for my bus electrical demands - PM me, I can forward it to you. In my case, if I run all the running equipment (headlights, wipers, horns, turn signals) I draw about 44 amps. My stereo draws about 44 amps when cranked. If you were to do this, even the 75 amp alternator would not be able to keep up with the demand and if you are only running one battery, you would start losing battery voltage and your headlights and wipers would get weak. You may not be able to restart the bus as well.
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Erik G
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 13544
Location: Tejas!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Mark, that is something to think about. I think at the most, headlights tail lights will be the regular, turns are used so infrequently, horn etc. I should be good. I dont plan on running 2 batteries and i dont really plan on running the stereo long if at all when its not running. My amp specs kinda scare me, says 90 max and has 3 30amp fuses. I think I gotta purchase the 95 amp alternator I see. Can anyone comment on the reliability of that 95 amp one?
I can say though, the Obcon 2x12 box for a Denali fits perfect under a double cab rear seat. I was a little nervous. I don't have the bottom brace attached (I don't know how it bolts on yet) but the box can be flipped around where the angle allows the support. I loose tool storage, which sucks. There is another box they make that is the same except 39 or so inches long, which will get me more tool room. I bought this because I figured if it wouldn't work, it would be an easy sell being for a Denali/Yukon/suburban
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zcruisers
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Joined: August 08, 2006
Posts: 153
Location: Long Beach, Calif
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| Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:33 am Post subject: |
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| Erik G wrote: |
Thanks Mark, that is something to think about. I think at the most, headlights tail lights will be the regular, turns are used so infrequently, horn etc. I should be good. I dont plan on running 2 batteries and i dont really plan on running the stereo long if at all when its not running. My amp specs kinda scare me, says 90 max and has 3 30amp fuses. I think I gotta purchase the 95 amp alternator I see. Can anyone comment on the reliability of that 95 amp one?
I can say though, the Obcon 2x12 box for a Denali fits perfect under a double cab rear seat. I was a little nervous. I don't have the bottom brace attached (I don't know how it bolts on yet) but the box can be flipped around where the angle allows the support. I loose tool storage, which sucks. There is another box they make that is the same except 39 or so inches long, which will get me more tool room. I bought this because I figured if it wouldn't work, it would be an easy sell being for a Denali/Yukon/suburban
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2 12's in a double cab is crazy. If your old VW didn't rattle before it definately will now. You may want to look into some type of sound deading material for the cab. The bass may sound good on the inside but I'm sure you will have tons of rattles on the outside.
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Erik G
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Location: Tejas!
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marklaken
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004
Posts: 2416
Location: fort collins, CO
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| Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Based on my calcs, I figured about 17 Amps driving at night, 8 amps to power windshield wipers, and 3 amps for daytime sunny driving. I had 8 amps (100 watts) for the cigarette lighter, which I only use to power my ipod and phone - I suspect that number is too high.
900 watt/12 = 75 amps for your amplifier. Your battery and capacitor will store energy, and your amplifier will only demand peak watts when listening really loud. My 550w stereo can get way louder than I can stand, so my best guess is I am using about half the watts it is capable of. You may be fine with a 75 amp alternator.
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TimmyH79
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2013
Posts: 88
Location: Houston, TX
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| Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hey everyone, I don't even own my bus yet (used to have a 79 westy - first car!) but thought the people watching this thread would be interested in a new product from RE Audio that was announced out at CES (no firm release date yet). It is a four channel amplifier with built in bluetooth audio / control from iphone/android. Check out the video demo below, looks smooth
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsG0qEtowiQ
No head unit required and super easy to hide - just the amp and 2 pairs of components would probably be a nice system in a bus. Would also save the electrical load of the head unit.
Also noticed some concerns about water getting in the door panels and thought it would be worthwhile to consider marine speakers from JL rather than locating in odd locations - was thinking about the above amp and two of these component systems for my future ride:
http://www.jlaudio.com/m770-ccs-cg-tb-marine-audio-m-series-speaker-systems-91739
Thanks for hearing a noob out |
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ldsvwguy
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2003
Posts: 1020
Location: Saratoga Springs, UT
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| Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Erik G wrote: |
I have been thinking about this a while, and the stuff I ordered is starting to roll in.
For my double cab, I'm putting subs under the rear seat. 2 12inch AudioQue dual 4ohm VC's. I'm going to run them 1 ohm off the D class channel of a JBL 5 channel amp. The box is big, and it might not fit, it's going to be really close, we'll see later this week. I think I may be able to cut some groves in the box to get it to work with the DC seat pedistal if I need to. It's a bandpass vented box, 1.25ft for each sub, tuned to 39hz. The amp should be pushing 900+ watts at 1ohm to the sub channel. For the front, I had been thinking of the 6inch Schedule 40 PVC end cap idea I've seen people use for boats and ATV's, like what was used above but bigger. Instead, temporarily, I found some Pyle (I know) marine speakers in a little box with a bracket, similar to outdoor home speakers but 4ohm. 6 1/2 with a tweeter. My thought is they are cheap, and if the box/mount works under the dash, I can always put some seperates in the boxes. If I don't like them, I will go for the PVC endcap idea. Also, a Sony bluetooth deck with an underdash kit, bolted up under the front underdash tray.
I love ebay, none of this stuff is cheepo (except the pyle 6 1/2's) yet shopping around I paid less than half price. $10 on the underdash new, $40 on the $200 sony (scratched factory return) $195 on the $400 JBL Amp (scratched factory return) $55 per sub, half off manufacturer close out. 4 guage and a Capacitor was like $45.
I don't really like the idea of the front speakers under the dash firing at my knees, but I cant really think of a better way. I don't know what I'm going to do for the rear yet either. I've seen some creative solutions lately that may work
I have no other electrics in the truck. Should I bite the bullet and go with the 75 amp alternator. Will the 55 work? I have a 12v gen now so either way I think thats gotta go lol |
I have about 1000 watts running in mine and I use a 55 alt and run 2 batteries parallel. works like a top.
I have a single 2 Ohm 12" sub in a ported box that fits just behind the rear seat and my amp is next to it. The whole area that is hidden is covered with Alpha Damp.
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Jwalter
Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2011
Posts: 5
Location: Wheaton, IL
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| Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 3:01 pm Post subject: My Install |
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I wanted to keep things as clean/stock-looking as possible. I am pretty happy with the results.
Everything was Rockford Fostgate - two 6-inch three-in-one shallow speakers up front and two 8-inch three-in-ones in the C-pillars in back. Wired an iPod/iPhone dock (with power charging) into the ashtray, ran a line to an under dash pre-amp (attached with velcroe, no drilling!) to control volume, fade and equalizer settings and boost output from iPod/iPhone.. Then ran a line back behind interior panels to a 250 watt amp that lives under the rear seat (behind partition).
Zero exposed wires, no radio head unit, integrated speaker mountings with white covers and high quality sound! Full digital music library access plus Pandora and Spotify through my phone. And we can even listen to FM radio if we dock my wife's Nano!
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RobzKombi
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2003
Posts: 2137
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| Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:24 am Post subject: |
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| OxonPhil wrote: |
Here are some pics of my install......not the biggest system, but nice and crisp
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I'm interested in the fuse box you are using in this picture. Do you have more pictures and details you can share on what you used for that "upgrade"?
Thanks. |
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63crewzer
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 118
Location: North-central Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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Those are his cross overs for his component speakers. (Separate tweeter from mid-bass driver)
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RobzKombi
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2003
Posts: 2137
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| Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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| 63crewzer wrote: |
| Those are his cross overs for his component speakers. (Separate tweeter from mid-bass driver) |
I was referring to the fusebox to the left of the parking brake . |
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63crewzer
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 118
Location: North-central Oklahoma
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| Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, I see. Sorry bout that
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55samba
Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2002
Posts: 805
Location: CA Bay Area
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| Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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My old 61 15w wt. Gotta love the lock to hold my buddies roof rack on!
[/img] |
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AirBus
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2008
Posts: 290
Location: Holland
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| Posted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 5:09 am Post subject: |
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Retrosound Radio in OG dash, usb/sd under tray.. Dual cone Dash speaker, and Hidden JBL's in the back..
Second Battery for Radio/Airride..
Sounds Amazing!
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2true
Samba Member
Joined: December 13, 2004
Posts: 1218
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| Posted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 6:00 am Post subject: |
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| grumpyveedub wrote: |
here is my setup. i lost the pics of the amp but i was able to get a kenwood amp in the space under the bench seat, rear section was saved for the 10" sub. the amp is secured by about 6 square inches of Velcro, not gonna move. the hot wire was ran from the battery with the correct inline fuse. the ground is made at one of the holes under the bench seat.
since i am using an iPod i did not have a "remote" switch. 1 wire was ran from the (+) of the amp to the "remote". an in-line fuse was used on the (+) side and a light up switch was put in place. now i can run the tunes without the motor tuning and w/o fear of messing up my ign parts. the switch is under the seat and come out at the heater knob, no drilling was done. the iPod input cable is between the bottom and back seat, nice and hidden.
speakers are (2) 4" 3 way Kenwoods in drive in speaker boxes with about 6 feet of extra wire. i can hang them outside on the door, gate, whatever.
i still need and want to cover the speakers inside the cases but that can come later. also i want to use some vintage looking cloth covered wire, again that can wait. i did put in some early bug dash knobs with some bolts to fill the volume knob hole (did not come with those).
the sound is ok but i need to get some foam in the backside to cut down on the "tinny" sound. the sub will help on that also.
I paid about $30 shipped for the drive in speaker cases.
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Great Idea!
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pitbug
Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2010
Posts: 549
Location: San Angelo, Tejas
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| Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 11:48 am Post subject: |
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I also have Drive-in speakers in my 57 SC w 200w Boss' also have a 1000w 8" slim subwoofer where the spare used to be and a pair of 6" Polk audio in kick panels powered by 1 5 chanel amp in space under seat It thumps the lil cab
RetroSound Model Two
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