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Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic
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DKKWorm
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I have a 70 and just installed a 2" narrowed beam with drop spindles, had the tie rods shortened, installed disc brakes etc. Its all in and I paid an alignment shop to align it. It rolls, looks, and stops great. I now cannot turn right very well. The wheel turns 1.5 times left and only 1 time to the right. I have been over everything trying to fix this. I cut off the steering stop where the pitman arm used to slightly hit. I have wondered about changing the location of the steering box.... but how? And which way do I go? If I actually have to move the steering box, how do I end up attaching the steering wheel as it will be out of alignment. Will I have to re-do the geometry of the tie rods? No doubt I'll have to have it re-aligned again.

What do I do?

I am perplexed. How can I get more steer to the right?
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I am perplexed. How can I get more steer to the right?


There are a couple bolts to limit the travel of the pitman arm.
If you get under the car and watch while someone turns the wheel you'll see which one needs to be adjusted.
Just make sure you don't go too far and allow the wheel/tire rub on the body.
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DKKWorm
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
Quote:
I am perplexed. How can I get more steer to the right?


There are a couple bolts to limit the travel of the pitman arm.
If you get under the car and watch while someone turns the wheel you'll see which one needs to be adjusted.
Just make sure you don't go too far and allow the wheel/tire rub on the body.


Thanks, but I have entirely cut that off already. the steering stop (where the pitman arm hits has been removed. Thats not it. I must have to re-figure the tie rods. not sure.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I paid an alignment shop to align it

The alignment shop should center the steering box and tie rods when doing the alignment. You should have the same rotation each way, unless the suspension is binding/rubbing somewhere.
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
Quote:
I paid an alignment shop to align it

The alignment shop should center the steering box and tie rods when doing the alignment. You should have the same rotation each way, unless the suspension is binding/rubbing somewhere.


SOP for alignment shop it to center the steering wheel, not the steering box... If they are informed that the box is not centered, they go with the steering wheel..
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r_beghetto
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hy Guys...
I leave in South of Brasil...

This is my bug 71!

135/70 and 195/65

before...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



after...
beam -8cm with new brakes..
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


[URL=http://img18.imageshack.us/my.php?image=domingo022.jpg]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Check out our cars on the site www.RUSTEDLIVE.com

Thanks! Wink
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r_beghetto
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Video of my cars..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xyhfKroYzc

Wink
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BoomsVW
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey R_beghetto
what are those spring plate things for? and how well do they work for there intended purpose? ive never seen them before nice bug i have a 71 standard as well.
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69CalLookBeetle
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boomsvw wrote:
hey R_beghetto
what are those spring plate things for? and how well do they work for there intended purpose? ive never seen them before nice bug i have a 71 standard as well.


What I'm curious about is how much weight/force is on those adjuster bolts?
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boomsvw wrote:
hey R_beghetto
what are those spring plate things for? and how well do they work for there intended purpose? ive never seen them before nice bug i have a 71 standard as well.


http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=SSR0002&cartid=0422200960643671
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69CalLookBeetle
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugninva wrote:
boomsvw wrote:
hey R_beghetto
what are those spring plate things for? and how well do they work for there intended purpose? ive never seen them before nice bug i have a 71 standard as well.


http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=SSR0002&cartid=0422200960643671


Looks like a few people make them, including BugPack and Sway-A-Way. Those look pretty cool, a bit out of my price range though, considering all of the other stuff I need.
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Questor
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:43 pm    Post subject: What parts are needed to lower a '68 Beetle? Reply with quote

Hey y'all,

I have a '68 Beetle where I want to lower the front end. We purchased a pair of used Ghia ball joint drop spindles that lower about 2.5". We have already installed Koni adjustable front gas shocks, replaced the front brake drums with disk brakes, and plan on running 145 front tires. The H beam will remain original.

However, this forum topic does not seem to have detailed lowering info regarding early model Bugs like mine with the above specs.

1.) What problems have people experienced with lowering a '68 Bug front end?

2.) Where can I get a decent torsion bar jack other than Chinese manuf tools that are a safety concern? Can I use a early Bus rear torsion jack instead? (the one listed for sale on theSamba.com appears to be too tall)

3.) I assume that new extended ball joints and new wheel bearings will have to be installed, but what other parts are recommended to be replaced?

4.) The front end will likely have to be realligned after drop spindles are installed correctly... What dial-in specs do I need to provide a reallignment shop for this modified Bug front end suspension and steering?

Thanks in advance, Steve
Cincinnati, OH
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neil68
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: What parts are needed to lower a '68 Beetle? Reply with quote

Questor wrote:
Hey y'all,

I have a '68 Beetle where I want to lower the front end. We purchased a pair of used Ghia ball joint drop spindles that lower about 2.5". We have already installed Koni adjustable front gas shocks, replaced the front brake drums with disk brakes, and plan on running 145 front tires. The H beam will remain original.

However, this forum topic does not seem to have detailed lowering info regarding early model Bugs like mine with the above specs.

1.) What problems have people experienced with lowering a '68 Bug front end?

4.) The front end will likely have to be realligned after drop spindles are installed correctly... What dial-in specs do I need to provide a reallignment shop for this modified Bug front end suspension and steering?

Thanks in advance, Steve
Cincinnati, OH


Steve,

For comparision, there's a photo of my '68 Beetle on the previous page. No problems whatsoever after 6 years, with 2.5" dropped spindles and 145R15 tires.

Yes, get a realignment from a shop that is familiar with lowered Beetles...I don't have the specs for you, though...
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r_beghetto
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hy Guys!!!!


I think you refer to adjustable rear suspension?

Here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ing+Plates


Then. This piece was made by me. Very easy to do, see here:

In my Bug:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



http://www.airsouls.com/how-tos/adj_spr_plates.htm

Wink

Sorry for my bad english hehe! Very Happy
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Questor
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:27 pm    Post subject: How to safely raise torsion bar and spring - which tool? Reply with quote

Hello again,

I am trying to obtain tools needed to lower the front end of our '68 Beetle using ball joint drop spindles.

When I read that '68 OEM service manual, it recommends that a torsion bar jack be used to raise the front torsion bar so the steering knuckels can be removed and replaced. However, I am having problems finding a torsion bar jach to do this. An ebay vendor sells a "torsion bar jack" for VWs but it does not look anything like the OEM toolo...

Is there another way to safely raise the torsion bar & spring with an improvised jack so I can get at the steering knuckles?

Thanks, Steve
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yancyholden
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just read through this thread and i didn't see this posted. if its a repeat sorry. for some of the questions about whether your tires will rub remember that the first number on the tire size (195 for example) is the width of the tread. i think in millimeters. the second smaller number (say 60) is a percentage of the width and is your sidewall height. the other number (15, 16, 24) is the size of the hole. if you have java then this link http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html will do the work for you. at that point you should be able to figure in shock travel and such to find out if your tires will rub based on the amount of space you have between the tire and the fender.
i dont know if any of that made any sense or is another one of my "captain obvious" moments. just thought i'd share.
and thanks to Glenn for starting this all off. most of my questions have been answered here.
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Johnny Warren
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a 1970 standard beetle and i was wondering if i lower my car two clicks in the back, how wide of a tire/rim can i go with stock fenders? and in teh front how low can i go with stock tires?
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1952
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DKKWorm wrote:
Okay, I have a 70 and just installed a 2" narrowed beam with drop spindles, had the tie rods shortened, installed disc brakes etc. Its all in and I paid an alignment shop to align it. It rolls, looks, and stops great. I now cannot turn right very well. The wheel turns 1.5 times left and only 1 time to the right. I have been over everything trying to fix this. I cut off the steering stop where the pitman arm used to slightly hit. I have wondered about changing the location of the steering box.... but how? And which way do I go? If I actually have to move the steering box, how do I end up attaching the steering wheel as it will be out of alignment. Will I have to re-do the geometry of the tie rods? No doubt I'll have to have it re-aligned again.

What do I do?

I am perplexed. How can I get more steer to the right?


Who shortened the Tie rods ?
Did someone just remove all the material from one tie rod only ?

If they did you will have a bug that turns well to one side and Turns bad the other

1952
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1952
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
thenhugosaid wrote:
i have adjusters and a doner beam and am planning on installing them into my 1974 std beetle
.
im running on 195/60/15 with riviera rims.

i know i can drop it about 3 inches befor the tires start hitting the fender without narrowing the beam...

im not sure of the offset of riviera rims but how much would you guys recommend i narrow the beam to tuck in my tires without binding?


!974 Beetle with 195/60-15 on 5.5x15 alloys on a stock width beam and a 3" drop.

It's close, very close.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I know this is a Very Old thread...Sorry
Could you tell me if the Offset on your Wheels are the same as Rivies ??
I have a set of Rivies and Will be adding adjusters to my beam and need to know how much to Narrow it to fit 165s

thanks
1952
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cstishenko
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

69' Standard

Front:
2" narrowed beam
Puma Adjusters
2.5" drum drop spindles
135/65/15 Conti's
Monroe 37022 Shocks

Rear:
2 outer splines
Cut bumpstop plates
notched spring plates
Stock Shocks
165/65/15 Conti's

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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