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radish
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2005
Posts: 45
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 Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:58 pm Post subject: Bus narrowed beam side plate?4 |
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hi guys
im trying to find the link on here with the dimension's for the side plates to make a narrowed beam. can anyone help.
Cheers |
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KombiMonster
Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2001
Posts: 2751
Location: Central Cal.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not sure of the demensions....but you can get a set for about $100...
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bill may
Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2003
Posts: 14160
Location: san diego,ca
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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DubStyle
SBS Hit Squad
Joined: July 26, 2003
Posts: 6250
Location: SBS headquarters: Missery
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| Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Jeremy wasn't there an issue with location of the mount hole on the early drawing? I think you and I worked it out when I made my side plates.
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"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club" |
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oilspot
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2002
Posts: 909
Location: Southern NM
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| Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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start tearing your beam apart like this (seperating the sideplates is what I'm trying to show with the movie link).
http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/movies/busbeam.mov
Once you've got it seperated start making a template from cardboard. You can easily mark the bolt locations fromt the backside of the sideplate and it should be easy enough to rough in the holes where the beam will stick through.
With that you can work up a nice template for a sideplate. |
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radish
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2005
Posts: 45
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| Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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| excellent movie, thanks very much. looks pretty easy. im going to get busy |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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| DubStyle wrote: |
| Jeremy wasn't there an issue with location of the mount hole on the early drawing? I think you and I worked it out when I made my side plates. |
I actually don't remember. Please tell me if there is a problem with the drawing
That is a good video. I do a couple things a little differently. I free up the center torsion retainer by total removing it and hammering the dimples back out. That way I don't have to remove the steering knuckle. I just cut the tube half way through and the retainer falls out. I leave enough metal to tuck back under the adjuster when I weld them on.
Also I use the 1/2-20tpi set screw that comes with the adjusters. I drill the center torsion retainer 180 degrees from the original 14mm hole and thread it for 1/2-20.
I also use the original roller bearings instead of bushings. I have the machine the bearing fit though which is not easy.
Other than that, I build beams the same way.
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radish
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2005
Posts: 45
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| Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:19 am Post subject: |
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jeremy
ive just come across the problem off the bearings how do you machine them? ive got a late needle bearing beam. |
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DubStyle
SBS Hit Squad
Joined: July 26, 2003
Posts: 6250
Location: SBS headquarters: Missery
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| Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:45 am Post subject: |
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| jeremyrockjock wrote: |
| I actually don't remember. Please tell me if there is a problem with the drawing |
Actually I can't remember stuff from the day before. Thats why I can't remember 1.75yrs ago. 
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Rescue912
Ferdinand Sanford
Joined: March 25, 2004
Posts: 484
Location: Indiana
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| Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:15 am Post subject: |
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| jeremyrockjock wrote: |
| I just cut the tube half way through and the retainer falls out. I leave enough metal to tuck back under the adjuster when I weld them on. |
Great idea. I am going to have to try that next time...
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roberto
Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2002
Posts: 834
Location: West Central Ohio
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| Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:06 am Post subject: |
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what is the real need for adding adjusters?
maybe to relax the trailing arms enough to compensate for the lack of bump stops?
I have dropped spindles, and unlike some folks that is plenty. I have no desires to ever turn it down further. but I do like the idea of tucking the wheels in a couple of in.
also when building these units are y'all welding them with them migs or sticks? |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 5008
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 9:52 am Post subject: |
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| roberto wrote: |
what is the real need for adding adjusters?
maybe to relax the trailing arms enough to compensate for the lack of bump stops?
I have dropped spindles, and unlike some folks that is plenty. I have no desires to ever turn it down further. but I do like the idea of tucking the wheels in a couple of in.
also when building these units are y'all welding them with them migs or sticks? |
The adjusters serve to fine tune the height. You want the majority of the drop in the spindles and not the beam. I use a mig welder. Most of the time I am using gasless flux wire.
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Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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radish
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2005
Posts: 45
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| Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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thanks for your help so far ive got my beam ready now to fit the adjusters, ive never fitted them before but i like the idea of how jeremy does them, when you cut the piece out to get to the retainer do you replace it then weld the adjuster over that? or could you explain a little more how to do it. i dont want to cock it up. i imagine it will become quite clear when i start on fitting.
thanks |
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jerupke
Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2006
Posts: 33
Location: Netherlands Limburg Elsloo
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| Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 2:05 pm Post subject: I'm the dutch drawing artist |
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Hello, I'm the dutch drawing artist... haha... remember?
I've cut of my outer side plates, and I'm drawing a cardboard sample of my new sideplates... I've got a company that will machine the fitting for the outer bearing 35 milimeters (about 1.4") inward and then machine the tubes back the same length. In order to get the outer bearings out I build a peace of equipment, however the inner bearing is not taken out by you, I understand. Just tucked in deeper...
Can you tell me the inner-bearing-outer-diameter??
I'm going to machine a peace of Nylon down to the same diameter in order to tuck the bearing further in!
So my question is.... can you tell me the inner bearing's outer diameter?
second question is: how do I clean out any machine-residu spilled on the inner bearing?
Last question: instead of using adjusters, can't I just drill a new hole for the screw which holds the center spring holder, about 1/2 an inch lower??
Bus will be a daily driver so shouldn't be slammed completely....
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rubbachicken
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2004
Posts: 3058
Location: socal
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 5:24 am Post subject: Re: I'm the dutch drawing artist |
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| jerupke wrote: |
Last question: instead of using adjusters, can't I just drill a new hole for the screw which holds the center spring holder, about 1/2 an inch lower??
Bus will be a daily driver so shouldn't be slammed completely.... |
yes you can lowe the bus that way, you will ow ever have to drill out the dimples, also you'll need to remove the idler pin mount on the bottom beam, unless you bash the centre bit that holds the torsion springs
I've read that if you bash them through, one side to the other it'll work free enough to be able to move it round to lower
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jeffreyned
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2012
Posts: 210
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:50 pm Post subject: |
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| jeremyrockjock wrote: |
I do a couple things a little differently. I free up the center torsion retainer by total removing it and hammering the dimples back out. That way I don't have to remove the steering knuckle. I just cut the tube half way through and the retainer falls out. I leave enough metal to tuck back under the adjuster when I weld them on.
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So I've been following your example and made good progress yesterday, with the exception of when I welded the piece back over the the center I think the metal shrunk and now it will only move with significant encouragement (hit it with a hammer). 
After pounding and grinding the dimples out of the inside I did try to smooth the center piece a bit using a sander. I thought this might help to make sure it will spin in there. Maybe I didn't do it enough?
I AM supposed to weld that piece back on right??? 
Untitled by [email protected], on Flickr
In the next picture, I tacked it in and ground down the welds and it moved ok. It was a little stiff, but it was ok. So I decided to weld around it. Then, not so much movement...
Untitled by [email protected], on Flickr
Untitled by [email protected], on Flickr
Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Busbodger
Samba Member
Joined: July 08, 2012
Posts: 117
Location: Small Town, Tennessee
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| Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Did you weld the inner piece to the outer tube? |
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jeffreyned
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2012
Posts: 210
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Busbodger wrote: |
| Did you weld the inner piece to the outer tube? |
No, it will move, but only with a lot of force. I may hack it open again and see what's what. Maybe take a 1/16th of the circumference of the center piece there, to make sure it spins nice.
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joe56vw
Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2004
Posts: 3202
Location: Olympia wa
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| Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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The few time i have drilled out the dimples i have had the same issue moving the center block
Now i just cut the tube, remove the block, clearance it, slide it back in, and weld the tube back up
I do that to one tube at a time so i don't have to worry about getting the tube straight again
I do the same when i put adjuster on bug beam also works great and is less hassle in the end
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