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replace ball joints
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hmbruce
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:49 am    Post subject: replace ball joints Reply with quote

any suggestions on replacing my ball joints on 72 reg beetle, i've never done it before but it dont look too bad.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a special tool to do the job.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can try to use a generic one but it's best to borrow the correct tool.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some good threads from the past to help this sticky along...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=136024&highlight=ball

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=132020&highlight=ball

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=108664&highlight=ball

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=79547&highlight=ball

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=71263&highlight=ball
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Last edited by keifernet on Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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dews70bug
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harbor freight has these kits. Not real sure if it will work for VW but they have a few to chose from.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=ball+joint+tool&Submit=Go
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to make it a Sticky.

Let's stay on topic.
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VanderBus
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used that big Harbor Freight C-clamp style kit to replace the ball joints on my 69 a few years back. I got it on sale for around $40.00 and ended up deforming the C-clamp after doing two cars. It did the job but I'd get a better quality kit if I knew I was going to use it a lot.
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ridge05_71
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replace my ball joints, tie rods, tie rod ends, steering dampner, put dropped spindles and converted over to disk breaks in the front of my 72 about two weeks ago. If you need any help, let me know and I might be able to lend a hand. I just went to auto zone and rented the tools to do the job.
Breck
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low66
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
You need a special tool to do the job.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can try to use a generic one but it's best to borrow the correct tool.


boy am i glad i bought one of thoose when changing mine..I tried for hours without one of thoose, i didnt even get any off.. Brought one of thoose and 30 min later i had them all off..very good tool to have. I think mine cost like 45 bucks
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bug_me
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2006 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugforlife wrote:
Glenn wrote:
You need a special tool to do the job.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can try to use a generic one but it's best to borrow the correct tool.


boy am i glad i bought one of thoose when changing mine..I tried for hours without one of thoose, i didnt even get any off.. Brought one of thoose and 30 min later i had them all off..very good tool to have. I think mine cost like 45 bucks


Anyone know where to get the VW specific press?
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bug_me wrote:
bugforlife wrote:
Glenn wrote:
You need a special tool to do the job.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can try to use a generic one but it's best to borrow the correct tool.


boy am i glad i bought one of thoose when changing mine..I tried for hours without one of thoose, i didnt even get any off.. Brought one of thoose and 30 min later i had them all off..very good tool to have. I think mine cost like 45 bucks


Anyone know where to get the VW specific press?


I got mine from a retired VW mechanic... along with the rest of his VW specific tools. I contaced OTC and they said they stopped making the VW jigs 20 years ago and have no plans to make any more.
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max16v
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:25 pm    Post subject: Bottom Ball Joints proves difficult. Reply with quote

im in the process of replacing my ball joints right now. i was reading some threads that Glenn posted and that answered several questions except one....

I have rented the BJ tool from AutoZone and the Top ball joints came out with no problem but the Bottoms are giving me trouble. The AZ tool is generic and i cant figure out a way to press the bottom bj's out. If any one has had success using the generic tool let me know. Thanks.
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CC_Hawg
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm thinking that bugforlife needs to start a rent a tool program that is a cross between Autozone and Netflix - the tool you need, keep it as long as you like... Laughing
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vicsvw
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:44 pm    Post subject: Easy way and cheap Reply with quote

There is an easer way to remove them and any one with an Electric welder has the best tool made to remove them. We have removed several hundred this way and always works great. Pulled a many bearing races the same way. See -> Ball Joint Removing <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/qa_balljointrem.htm Any one with a press can put the new one in, just be sure it's aligned properly. Even if you have the Special tool this is easer. Pulled an 8" bearing race with a 110v Harbor fright welder and a $2.00 hammer. www.vwhelp.com
I just might buy one of those fancy tools, so I can charge the customer twice as much "Special tool and all"
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SLO-N-LO-69
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone used any of the ones at the harbor freight site linked to above? If so which one and how did it work?
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VICTEXAS
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:41 pm    Post subject: BJ REPLACEMENT Reply with quote

I'm not a great mechanic by any stretch-- but if your ball joints have been rusted in for over 20 years like mine--- a blow torch may be good to heat up the control arm... BFH may help--- (big freakin hammer).

I used the Harbor Freight C Clamp--- and began to tear up the tools-- but I got all 4 in. Used a 450LB Air Impact to get 'em all pressed in tight. Then promptly poked an F'n hole in my rubber trying to pull up the spring after greasing the joint. I'll run it until it busts... and then replace...

Oh yea-- don't heat up the control arm when putting them back in-- you'll melt the teflon.... did that too.. it pissed me off... dragged that project out an extra week.

VL
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roymann
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heated mine with a torch and hammered them out with a heavy drift pin.
Amazing what a little heat will do to break the 30 yr old rust weld!
Hammered the new ones in with a heavy duty 1 1/2 inch plumbers socket.
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ed stanley
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's how I did it, too. I was reluctant to say so, because I know some would say that's a terrible thing to do - put a torch to the control arms to swell them up and pound out the old ball joints. Changes the metalurgy, loses hardness, etc. etc. My experience has been that they can take it, though. I know - I know, it doesn't make it right.
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roymann
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't have to heat them until they glow red! Just raising the temp a couple of hundred degrees is enuff to move the molecules and break
the chains.
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ed stanley
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes - quite true! You don't need "red" heat to accomplish the job.
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74airbug
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the control arms out of the beam and took them to a local front end shop. It took the mechanic about 15 minutes to press out the old ones and press in the new ones - $20 well spent... Cool
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